Restaurants in Italy

Rome, Italy October 2007

Trattoria Da Armando al Pantheon
http://www.armandoalpantheon.it/home.php
info@armandoalpantheon.it
via Salita de’ Crescenzi 31; 06.68.80.30.34
This trattoria is located just a few doors west of the Pantheon. I had emailed the restaurant before leaving for Rome for reservations. I received a response within the same day. I started my meal with a delicious Verdi antipasti: Zucchini, green beans, onions, red bell peppers) followed by Abbacchio scottadito: Roast lamb chops w/potatoes. Biscotti and vin santo for dessert. 41 Euros

"Gioia Mia" Pisciapiano
Via degli Avignonesi, 34.
One block west of Piazza Barberini
Tel. 06.4882784. stefano.tiribocchi@fastwebnet.it
Menu: http://www.hoteljulia.it/imgioiamia/gioiamenu.htm
This is the second time I’ve eaten at Gioia Mia and is one of my favorite restaurants in Rome. The first time was in 2003 with my Mom and we both enjoyed their pizza for lunch. On this trip, I dined with friends Deb and Robert. The restaurant was packed and diners at the door were turned away if they didn’t have reservations. The three of us enjoyed the antipasti: eggplant, mushrooms, potatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, onions, cheese, etc. For my entrée I had Pappardelle alla Gran Duca (wide ribbon-like pasta) with bacon and mushrooms in a light cream/tomato sauce and cognac. I had ordered a second dish but after starting on the pasta, which was a large portion, I asked the waiter to cancel my second dish. I was glad I did, as the pasta was quite filling. The ¼ liter of red wine was only 2 euros. Deb and Robert shared the same pasta dish and a veal dish; and we shared a dish of artichokes, which came at the end of our meal. Deb and Robert treated me to dinner. The total bill was 52 euros.

Ristorante – Pizzeria Tre Pupazzi
Borgo Pio, 183 (S. Pietro)
Phone: 06 68 68 371
I enjoyed dining outside under the umbrellas with friends Deb and Robert. We had just finished touring the Scavi excavations and wanted lunch before our tour of the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel. The server was somewhat rude, but we just ignored him and enjoyed our meal. I had the delicious pasta putanesca (9 Euros) with water (1 Euro). Deb had pizza while Robert had minestrone soup and prosciutto with melon.

Ristorante Der Pallaro
Largo del Pallaro 15
Phone: 06.6880.1488
Der Pallaro is a place that serves a fixed priced menu with wine and water for 23 euros per person. It’s whatever mama cooks that day, although based on reading other reviews of this restaurant mama repeats some of the dishes. The antipasti consisted of huge portions of thinly sliced prosciutto, cooked lentils, sliced fennel, olives, ham croquettes, cheese croquettes, and mozzarella balls. Next came the rigatoni pasta cooked in a red sauce followed by slices of meat sautéed in olive oil and parsley along with potato chips (potato chips are not my kind of Roman food). Lemon torte for dessert. House red and white wine; bottled water. With the exception of the meat being slightly overcooked, everything was delicious. This is not gourmet food but for a decent meal in Rome with a fun atmosphere, this is the place to go. Both the dining rooms inside and outside were filled to capacity.

Pizzeria Wanted il Posto Ricerato
via Leonina, 90
06 489 05230
Noon to 1am. Closed Monday’s
I asked Katie at my hotel to recommend a place to have pizza for lunch. She recommended Wanted. It’s located off via Cavour. I sat outside under umbrellas eating some delicious pizza while it rained. The waiter pulled down the plastic coverings to keep the rain out from the sides. I had the Margherita w/proscuitto. The crust was thin and had been cooked in a traditional wood oven. I also had ¼ liter of red wine. 11 Euros.

Al Fontanone
Piazza Trilussa 46 (Ponto Sisto, Trastevere)
Tele: 06 581 7312.
Closed Tuesdays and Wednesday morning. 12.15-2:45; 7:15pm – 11pm.
http://www.alfontanone.com/index.htm
This restaurant is located in Trastevere just on the other side of the Ponte Sisto Bridge. The area was quite lively with people hanging out on the streets, while restaurants were filled to the max with diners – I think I’d like to stay in Trastevere on my next visit to Rome! The restaurant had a nice combination of locals and tourists. The waiters were quite friendly and service was good. I had an excellent meal: A green vegetable gratin with zucchini followed by the eggplant parmesan, served in an individual dish. Both were very good. I dined with six friends and we shared a few bottles of wine. My meal: 28 Euros.

Italy May 2006

I spent two weeks traveling solo in Italy starting in Florence and ending in Venice. Here are the places where I dined.

Florence:

Caffe Bigallo Enoteca
Via del Proconsolo, 73/75r
Florence, Italy
I enjoyed their 13 euro lunch special of short pasta with zucchini, followed by eggplant parmesan (excellent flavors); glass of wine (pricey at 6 euros but what the heck) and bottled water. 19 Euros.

Antico Fattore
Via Lambertesca 1-3r
Florence, Italy
Closed Sundays
Tele 055-288975
http://www.mega.it/antico.fattore
Crostini Toscana (liver pate nice and warm and creamy); veal scaloppini with porcini mushrooms in a gravy/sauce and parsley; fried battered zucchini flowers. Small bottle of white wine; bread. With my coupon from their Internet web site I received a cute small ceramic plate to hang on the wall at home (in my kitchen), which has the restaurants name. I was also given a small bottle of red wine. This place was evenly mixed with Italians and tourists. Nice interior with block arches, old pictures, B/W, and drawings done in pencil. 31 Euros.

Pitti Caffé
Right across the street from the Pitti Palace (with green awning)
I ordered the 15 Euro special: Risotto con frutta di mare; ensalata caprese; 1/4 liter of white wine (4 euros). The buffalo mozzarella was huge and very fresh and was served with ripe tomatoes and lettuce with basil leaves. Nice balsamic and olive oil. 19 Euros total.

Ristorante La Martinicca
Via del Sole 27/r - Firenze
Tel. 055-218928
http://www.ristorante-lamartinicca.com/index_ing.php
This restaurant was recommended to me by the gentleman at my hotel. I ordered 1/4 liter of red wine, the Ravioli Tartufo in a cream sauce and topped with fresh asparagus (absolutely the best!), steak Florentine (approx. 27 oz – no, I didn’t eat it all); Vin Santo with biscotti for dessert; bottled water. 40.50 Euros. This was an excellent meal! After the place filled up, the service slowed down. Between two rooms filled with people, only two waiters took care of the guests. Highly recommended. Just sit back and relax and enjoy the meal.

Ristorante Le Fontincine
Via Nationale, 79r
Florence
Make sure you make dinner reservations for the back room, as you will pass the open kitchen and the wonderful display of their antipasti. The back room is filled with great paintings on the wall – very colorful. Service was great. My friend June (with her daughter Jill) and I dined together. The restaurant starts with a complimentary glass of Prosecco. For my meal, I ordered the antipasti platter, which various foods are selected for me (marinated artichoke, stuffed tomato, marinated mushrooms, salami, olives, a quiche of some sort, marinated onions, and eggplant . For my entrée, I ordered the Osso Bucco with spinach, which was excellent. June ordered a wonderful bottle of wine for the three of us. 28 Euros.

Osteria del Cinghaile Bianco
Borgo S. Jacopo, 43r
http://www.cinghialebianco.it/
Tele: 055-215706
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 18.30 - 22.30; Saturday, Sunday, 12.00 - 15.00 / 18.30 - 22.30
Catch this place on a Sunday, as most places are closed that day. I ordered their mixed meat antipasti, which included wild boar, salami, etc., grilled eggplant that was infused with garlic and hot pepper flakes; cheese and two crostini Toscana. For my entrée, I ordered their Papparadelle Cinghaile, wide pasta noodles with wild boar meat. I just love this dish! Along with a ½ liter of wine, my meal came to 26 Euros. This was the second time I dined here and is one of my favorites in Florence.

Montefioralle (Greve in Chianti)

Ristorante La Castellana
via di Montefioralle 1
Montefioralle (Greve in Chianti)
Tele 055-853134
http://www.ristorantelacastellana.it
Location: As you head up the hill to Montefioralle, at the beginning of the town, it’s on the right and the outdoor dining area, covered with an awning, is on the left side, facing the valley. The menu had a very nice selection of dishes. Lunch was excellent: I ordered just a Primi: Pappardelle al sugo di cinghiale (wide pasta with wild boar meat), water, and a glass of red wine; Cantucci and Vin Santo for dessert - all for 20 euros. The pappardelle was fabulous, which is one of my favorite pastas.

Arezzo:

Buca di San Francesco
Via San Francesco 1 (and the corner of via Cavour)
Phone: 0575/23-271
http://www.bucadisanfrancesco.it
I had riboletta, followed by Lomba (sliced pork), which was served with Tuscan white beans and polenta. I also had Vin Santo and biscotti for dessert. 16 Euros. This place fills up quickly so get there when it opens or make reservations.

Bologna Dining:

Il Portico
Via A. Righi, 11 - 40126 Bologna
http://www.appetitovienmangiando.it/Recensioni/portico.html

I dined here three times, once for lunch and twice for dinner.

For lunch: Delicious pizza with sausage and a ¼ liter of merlot. 9 Euros.

For dinner the same day (you must read my journal of my problems at three other restaurants that first evening in Bologna): Tortellini with Gorgonzola and walnuts, which was excellent and rich. Veal Milanese cutlet; ½ liter of white wine and bottled water. 22 Euros.

For dinner: I started with their buffalo mozzarella, which was the best I have ever had! I also had their Bucatini alla Matriciana (with red sauce, onions , and bacon); ¼ liter of white wine and bottled water. Limoncello for an after dinner drink. 22.30 Euros.

Osteria dell’ Orsa
Via Mentana 1F
University District
My hotel recommended this to me. I had a simple lunch of their pasta Bolognese, which was excellent and 1/4 liter of red wine. 8 Euros.

Trattoria Marisposa
Via Bertiera, 12
(across the street from Hotel Paradise where I stayed)
I dined with two couples (Colleen, Jim and Pam, Gary). We had a great time and very good food served at this little Trattoria. I had the mortadella and Parmesan cheese, followed by the lasagna Bolognese, the best I have ever had! Red wine that we shared, and bottled water. 18 Euros.

Ravenna:

Ristorante La Gardela
Via Ponte Marino, 3
This was a place that served huge portions at reasonable prices. I started with their tortellini stuffed with ricotta and spinach in a tomato/cream sauce, followed by their fried mixed platter of shrimp, calamari, and zucchini. I shared a liter of wine with friends Pam and Gary; bottled water. 20 Euros.
Parma:

La Barricata Osteria
Borgo Marodolo, 8/A
43100 Parma
Tel. +39 0521 281307
Cross the Ponte di Mezzo and take the 4th left onto Borgo Marodolo.
My cousin Ernesto ordered dinner for Santy and me. We started with a platter of mixed meats (proscuitto, salami, etc.), followed by tortelli with ricotta and spinach. Santy and I had cookies for dessert. This was a small restaurant and no tourists! Since Ernesto ordered without any menu, as this is one of the places that he and Santy dine in. I would imagine this place was reasonably priced. The food was excellent. Santy also ordered a delicious fried cheese, shaped into a bowl, which was filled with a creamy rucola.

Trattoria del Tribunale
Vicolo Politi 5
(actually on via Farini, south from the Piazza Garibaldi)
Ernesto again bought my meal. I ordered a large mixed salad (7 euros). It was nice to have a salad for a change for lunch. There were also several lunch specials that looked very good.

S. Martino
Via S. Martino, 2
Tele: 0521-960429
Reservations highly recommended
This is a wonderful seafood and pizza place. The place filled very quickly. There is outdoor and indoor dining. I started with the mussels in white wine (7.50 Euros) followed by the spaghetti with clams (7.50 Euros). White wine, water; limoncello for an after dinner drink. Ernesto paid for my meal. Very reasonable prices at this restaurant. Highly recommended!

Venice restaurants:

Alla Zattare
Rio Terra Foscarini, 795.
Located right on the Guidecca canal. Wonderful views. This place was perfect for outdoor dining. I had an excellent pizza with eggplant (8.50 Euros), 2 glasses of wine. Total 17 Euros.

Trattoria alla Rivetta
Castello 4625 (on Salizzada San Provolo)
I dined here in 2003 and really liked it. It’s a busy restaurant, so make reservations. If you get there a little early, they’ll serve you a glass of prosecco while you wait for your table. I shared the fried calamari and shrimp with my friend Beth along with a 1/2 liter of Prosecco; Noodles with crab meat. Very good meal. 22 Euros.

Trattoria Pizzeria Antico Capon
Campo Santa Margherita, 3004
I had a small lunch of pasta with pesto sauce and a mixed salad. The pasta was very good, but the salad was just okay, however, I hate iceberg lettuce. I had one glass of white wine. They don’t serve carafes of wine so the waiter opened a bottled and just charged me 3.50 Euros for the glass. Nice outdoor dining in the Campo S. Margherita. 20 Euros.

Trattoria da Remigio
On Calle Bosello near Scuola San Giorgio dei Greci, Castello/Riva Degli Schiavoni
Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (follow Riva degli Schiavoni east until you come to white Chiesa della Pietà; turn left onto Calle della Pietà, which jags left into Calle Bosello)
041-523-0089 Reservations required.
I had dinner with Beth again. I started my meal with the antipasti seafood (with a couple of Items I couldn't ID), followed by delicious gnocchi with a seafood sauce. This restaurant fills up quite fast, with a combination of locals and tourists.

Rosticceria San Bartolomeo
Campo San Bartolomeo
Risotto with shrimp and zucchini and bottled water. 7.70 Euros. This is a great place for a quick lunch, which serves food already cooked. You can also see the wide variety of foods to choose from.

Ae Oche
Calle Tintor, S. Croce 1552
This place has several locations. I started with their caprese, which was quite filling and very good. Unfortunately/fortunately they forgot my order/but that was okay since I was full from the caprese. I also had a few bites of Beth’s pasta Carbonara. Wine and water. 17 Euros.

La Piscina
Located at Pensione La Calcina
Dorsoduro 780 - 30123 Venezia - Italy
Tel: 041.520.64.66
Fabulous dinner. I got a discount because I stayed at the hotel. Prices are reasonable to a little high but well worth it for the quality of the food and service provided. 38 Euros. I had their 32 Euro dinner where you can choose 2 entrees, dessert and a glass of wine. I had their tagliatelle with salmon and green beans in a butter sauce, followed by duck with Gorgonzola and a breaded stuffed tomato. For dessert, I had their vanilla gelato topped with slices of pears and amaretto. Yummy! I also ordered a second glass of wine and bottled water.

Taverna San Trovaso
Dorsoduro, 1016, Venice
Phone: 39-041-520-3703
http://www.tavernasantrovaso.it/
Tue-Sun 7-9:50pm.
Make sure you arrive on time and book in advance! This place opens at 7pm and when I got there at 7:30 for my reservations, it was 98% filled. Good food, reasonable prices, fast service. I had the scallop’s gratin and then their spaghetti with assorted shellfish in a red sauce (shrimp, mussels, clams, fish). Every thing was very good. I also ordered a side dish of spinach, and mushrooms (30 Euros). I dined here two times before, the first being in 1998. I always try to dine at a new place but will definitely keep San Trovaso on my list to return to.


TUSCANY, May 2004

(This was a two week trip with my cousin Reenie. Prices listed were for the entire bill, which normally included the cover charge. The exchange rate was $1 to 1.22 Euros)

LUCCA:

Trattoria da Leo
via Tegrimi, 1
Tele: 0583-492236
http://www.trattoriadaleo.it
We arrived just as the Trattoria was about to close. We were welcomed anyway. For lunch I had a pasta dish with pine nuts and basil, which was very good. I also had a salad, but it was quite large and I would have been fine with just the pasta and bread. Reenie ate lightly and had a couple of side dishes: baked fennel and white beans with onions. We shared a small carafe of vino de la casa. $24

Gli Orti di Via Elisa
via Elisa, 17
Lucca
Tele: 0583-491241
Closed Wednesdays
http://www.ristorantegliorti.it
info@ristorantegliorti.it
I started with the antipasti Toscano, a variety of cured meats on toast followed by the papparedelli with rabbit sauce. Reenie started with a cheese plate followed by braised goat and onions. We had red wine with our meal. It was very good. The restaurant had mostly locals. $46

Stefani da Benedetto
Corte Stefani - S. Lorenzo a Vaccoli
Tele: 0583-379-031
Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays
http://www.trattoriastefani.com/
info@trattoriastefani.com
We started with an excellent appetizer of polenta with mushrooms. We also had the caprese, which was a very large serving. I ordered the mixed meat grill (very good sausage) and Reenie ordered deep fried breaded rabbit. We ordered a bottle of Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay wine. For dessert we had the Vin Santo with Cantucci. Excellent meal! $62.

Pizzeria Rusticanella 2
In town
Very good pizza that we shared along with some bottled natural water. $7.20.

MONTEPULCIANO:

Grotta di Nano
via di Gracciano nel Corso, 11
Tele: 0578-717471
We dined here for a late lunch, so we ordered just two items to share, the bruschetta, which was one large slice of toasted bread with freshly diced tomatoes (rather than several small slices of bread and the polenta dish, sort of a thick soup. $12

Osteria Acquacheta
via del Teatro, 22
Tele: 0578-758443
I had pici with a red sauce (first time having pici and it was very good!), followed by a goat dish. Reene had a boiled meat dish, which we later asked, "Why?" It was just boiled chicken with vegetables! We had a 1/2 liter of white wine and bottled water. $28

On another night we dined with friends Dawn and Francesco at Acquacheta, I tried their Riboletto, the poor man's soup of Tuscany - a bean and bread dish. I enjoyed it very much. I also had rabbit and grilled eggplant. Dawn and I shared a 1/2 liter of white wine (and the eggplant), while Reenie and Francesco shared a 1/2 liter of red wine. I didn't write down what she had. We all had dessert. $48.80

Ai Quattro Venti
Piazza Grande
Tele: 0578-717231
We dined at Ai Quattro Venti three times. The food was very good and it was close to our apartment.
The crostini with buffalo mozzarella and ham was excellent. I had their scaloppini limoni (yes, very lemony) and Reenie had the ricotta cheese and spinach ravioli in a butter sauce and tiramisu for dessert. I was still hungry, so I ordered the raoli! We also ordered more wine (total of 2 liters for the evening) since I was having the ravioli. $57

Excellent Osso bucco! I also had a side dish of Sfomorta, a souffle-spinach side dish. Reenie had the same dish with roasted vegetables. House wine. $50

Returning for the third time, I had their ricotta cheese and spinach ravioli in a butter sauce and the steak with a spicy cream sauce. It was spicy, but very good. We both had the Sfomorta as a side dish. Reenie ordered a different steak with rock salad, but the steak was overcooked to her liking. 1/2 liter of red wine. $58

Trattoria di Cagnano
via dell' Opio nel Corso, 30
Tele: 0578-758757
Closed Mondays
Reenie and I shared the Pizza Toscana, which had porcini mushrooms and sausage; bottled water. $12.80

Diva e Maceo
via di Gracciano nel Corso, 90/92
Tele: 0578-716951
One of our best meals was at Diva e Maceo. The place was filled with both tourists and locals. The Papparedelli with wild boar sauce was excellent and rich. But the grilled lamb was fabulous! Served with the lamb were white beans in a tomato/sage sauce. Reenie also had the lamb and a side dish of endive with mushrooms. We had house white wine. $53

SIENA:

Trattoria Dino
via Casato Disopra, 71
Tele: 0577-289036
This was a restaurant recommended to me by Alexandra. We walked in and found only locals having lunch. I had the veal Milanese cutlet, nicely breaded and pan fried, with a side dish of white beans. Reenie had a meat dish (I didn't write it down), but it was pan fried and a side dish of Ceci (garbanzos). $17

Ristorante Nello La Taverna
via del Porrione, 28
Tele: 0577-289043
http://www.nello.191.it/
Antonio and Alexandra took us here to dinner. Alberto, the owner of Nella and friend of Antonio, took good care of us. Antonio brought him a bottle of Brunello. We had a fabulous dinner and consider it our best meal out of the whole trip. We started with a glass of champagne, followed by the antipasti. My octopus "sopresata" was excellent. Reenie had a paté appetizer. White wine was served with our primi (eggplant ravioli with julienne zucchini) and red wine with our secondo (rolled rabbit stuffed with pancetta and sauce). We all shared a variety of desserts along with a strong after dinner drink. Everything was just wonderful. Since we didn't pay for dinner, I don't know the total amount of the bill, but from what I remember from the menu, the prices were quite reasonable and comparable to the other places we dined in. The exception would be that we normally ordered house wine. We were served some wonderful wines, such as a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Trattoria La Torre
(di Alberto Boccini)
via Salicotto, 7-9
Tele: 0577-287548
This is another small place that Alexandria recommended to me. After dining at Nella's I wanted to go there again. However, Alexandria and Antonio told us to dine at La Torre for a different experience. I'm glad we went. Being fond of ricotta/spinach tortellini, I ordered it here. It was made fresh that day, as well as all the other pastas. I also had the Osso bucco. Reenie splurged and ordered the Florentine steak - bistecca a la Florentina. She was a little disappointed as it was not rare enough for her. We both had a side dish of asparagus. We had our own small carafe of wine. Dinner was good, but Nella La Taverna was the best. $97 (note: the Florentine steak alone was 30 Euros). My meal was $36

FLORENCE:

Trattoria Guelfa
via Guelfa, 103r
Tele: 055-213306
Closed Wednesdays
This is a small Trattoria not too far from our hotel. Trattoria Guelfa has three set menus for 9 Euros, which is an excellent price. I was told to go with the specials of the evening. I started with their excellent risotto a la Florentina, followed by veal with mushroom sauce; white wine. Reenie had their penne a la casa and a daring dish of tripe. I had to try it and it wasn't bad, but not something I would normally order. She also had wine and fresh fruit for dessert. $34

Osteria del Cinghaile Bianco
Borgo S. Jacopo, 43r
Tele: 055-215706
http://www.cinghialebianco.it/
osteria@cinghialebianco.it
This Osteria was highly recommended to me by fellow fodorites, as well as being listed in several guidebooks. I love risotto! I had the risotto with asparagus. I also had the wild boar meat with polenta. I didn't write down what Reenie had, but along with her meal and a large jug of red house wine, the bill came to $71.

il Pizzaiuolo
via de Macci, 113/r
Tele 055-241171
Excellent Neapolitan pizza. Reenie and I shared the pizza caprese; water. $12

il Latini
via Palchetti, 6r
Tele: 055210916
http://www.illatini.com/ or torlatin@tin.it
Excellent meal in a busy and noisy but fun place. We shared a melon and proscuitto appetizer, followed by Riboletto, and we shared the Florentine steak (1 kilo for 36 Euros). The steak was very good! House red wine, water; Tiramisu for dessert (shared); Vin Santo with Cantucci compliments of the restaurant. $84

OTHER TUSCANY RESTAURANTS:

Restaurant La Mencia
Corso G. Matteotti, 85
Asciano
Tel: 0577 718227
We enjoyed dining on the outdoor patio in the back of the restaurant. I started with the crostini with paté, then the tagliatelle w/mushrooms. Reenie had buffalo mozzarella followed by a veal steak. We shared a 1/2 liter of white wine; bottled water $46.

Trattoria "il Pozzo"
53020 S. Angelo in Colle
Tel: 0577 844015
Excellent lunch with a nice platter of antipasti with various cheese, cured meats, various crostini, and olives. Primi: Stuffed ravioli (spinach and ricotta cheese) with ragu. Reenie had the wild boar dish, which I had the beef in Brunello wine sauce with a side dish of julienne zucchini topped with parmesan cheese. Red wine. This lunch was a treat from Antonio, who is the owner of Piccolo Hotel Oliveta in Siena. Prices were quite reasonable.

La Locanda del Loggiato Ristorante
Piazza di Pescheria 52044 Cortona
Tel: 0575 630575
Very good bruschetta, followed by pasta with pancetta in a tomato cream sauce. I really enjoyed this dish! Reenie had an excellent dish of Spelt with chicory and parmesean cheese sauce (I wish I ordered that dish!) followed by gnocchi. Wine $50

Trattoria Latte di Luna
Vicolo delle Prigioni ,16 Pienza
Tel: 0588 86392
I started with the mixed crostini with toppings: chicken liver paté, a spicy tomato sauce, and a tuna sauce; tagliatelle with ragu (I should have ordered the tagliatelle with tartufo - what an intense smell!). Reenie ordered roast suckling pig and a side dish of sfomarta verdure. We shared a 1/2 liter of white wine; bottled water. $33. Try to reserve a table to sit outside. It's lovely with the umbrellas.

Piccola Trattoria Argo Dolce
Via Matteotti, 19 Montalcino
This is the only restaurant I wouldn't recommend because of the extremely slow service. It was also on the pricy side. I had a pasta dish, the only thing I wrote down. $32

CELEBRITY CRUISE MAY 2003)

Prices listed were for Mom and I. The exchange rates were terrible, $1.17 to $1.19 to the Euro.

Rome

Ristorante Pisciapiano "Gio Mia"
Via degli Avignonesi, 34-35
Phone: 06 48 827 84
Delicious ham, artichoke, olive, cheese pizza with 1/4 liter of white wine. Mom had pizza with sausage, mushroom, capers, cheese and 1/4 liter of red wine. $23. The antipasti looked excellent too.

Florence

Tutti Frutti
Panini sandwiches with mozarella, eggplant and tomatoes; red wine. $8.12 each.

Positano

Ristorante La Cambusa
Piazza A. Vespucci, 24
Down at the waterfront
Phone: 089 812 051
Mom and I shared a plate of marinated octopus in lemon and oil; I had pasta with white clam sauce; white wine. Delicious! $23

Venice May 2003 (Post Cruise)

Osteria ala Campana
Calle dei Fabbri 4720
Phone: 041-528-5170
This is a nice little place for lunch or dinner. It's located on the busy Calle dei Frabbri, which runs between the Rialto Bridge and San Marco. At the entrance is a glassed in food display of their cicchetti (small snacks or what is similar to the Spanish Tapas). We each had a platter of fried calamari and shrimp along with an eggplant appetizer, ½ liter of house red wine $27.83. A couple at the table next to us (from Venice) said the restaurant has a larger selection of food at dinnertime.
Osteria Sora Al Ponte
San Polo, 1588
Phone 041-718-208
I wasn't thrilled with my dish. I ordered shrimp with polenta, thinking it would be in a red sauce with pasta. It came unpeeled and the shrimp were very small. I also had grilled vegetables, which were very good. But, it wasn't enough for me, so I ordered a side dish of pasta. We were with a group of fodorites and their meals were excellent with one other exception: Gary ordered a scallop appetizer and he got *1* scallop! He said it was tasty, but only one?? Mom had pasta with seafood and a mixed salad. We each had our own ½ carafe of wine. $56.

Da Mario alla Fava
Calle Stagneri 5242
Phone 041-244-3520
This restaurant was very close to our hotel as well as near piazza San Bartolomeo and the Rialto Bridge. We had an excellent meal of seafood antipasta and a mixed fish platter for 2. The seafood and fish were on the pricey side, but very fresh and very good. We were served a glass of champagne to start and had a bottle of red wine with our meal and bottled water. Make reservations to sit outside their small "patio." We ran into a couple from the cruise and they said their lobster ravioli was excellent. $103

Trattoria alla Rivetta
Ponte S. Provolo 4625
Phone: 041-528-7302
One of our best meals in Venice was at all Rivetta. It's located not too far from Piazza San Marco and near touristy restaurants. It's a small place, but packed with locals and some tourists. Mom and I both started with tagliatelle pasta with fresh crab (divine), and then shared a plate of fried calamari. We had a bottle of house red wine and profiteroles for dessert. $56

Antica Osteria al Pantalon
Dorsoduro 3958
(Vicino ai Frari)
Phone: 041-710-849

For lunch, I had spaghetti with clams in a white (garlic) sauce. I don't remember what Mom had, but it was pasta of some sort. We each had ¼ liter of wine. $32

Alla Madonna
Calle della Madonna
S. Polo

I started with an excellent seafood risotto followed by Milanese cutlet and white wine. I don't remember what my Mom had could have also started with the risotto followed by fish. (I'll have to ask her and update this report). $73.76

Antica Trattoria Bandierette
Snc di D. Marzi and C.
Castello 6671
Phone: 041-522-0619
The manager of our hotel recommended this place. He stated there were no tourists at the restaurant, only locals. He was wrong, but the food was good. I had a delicious meal of salmon ravioli and fish antipasta, while mom had spaghetti with clams and a mixed salad. We also had dessert: Italian cookies with Vin Santo. $51

Trattoria da Roberto
Near Trattoria alla Rivetta
DON'T DINE HERE. We had a lousy lunch pizza. The pizza dough was previously made/frozen. Some of the other dishes looked good like the mussels in marinara sauce. I wanted to have pizza at Al Veccio Canton, which I highly recommend; however, we got to the restaurant around 2pm and they had just closed their doors. Hours at Canton are Mon, Wed-Sat noon to 2:20pm and 7 to 10:30pm. I ate there in November 2001 and loved the pizza!!


ITALY NOVEMBER 2001

Trattoria Tre Spiedi
SS. Apostoli - Cannaregio, 5906 Venice
Phone: 39-041-520-8035
Closed Mondays
Mixed salad and fried calamari. Reenie enjoyed a tagliatelle dish with prosciutto in a cream sauce; small bottle of wine. Dinner for 2: 52.000L/$24.54.

Pizzeria Al Vecio Canton
Castello, 4738/a 4739 Venice
Phone: 39-041-528-5176
Closed Tuesdays
Delicious pizza with buffalo mozzarella; with sausage on one and porcini mushrooms on the other; small carafe of red wine. 45.000L/$21.12. Paid with Visa.

Taverna San Trovaso
Dorsoduro, 1016, Venice
Phone: 39-041-520-3703
Email: cassan.giorgio@tin.it
Closed Mondays
Tony and I found this resaurant back in 1998 and really enjoyed it. I wanted to return again! We dined upstairs as the first floor was full. Reenie and I enjoyed our meal: I had a delicious fried seafood antipasta followed by Tagliatelle with salmon in a cream sauce. Reenie had gnocchi and a fish platter; white wine 90.500L/$42.47. Paid with Visa.

Trattoria Ai Cugnai
S. Vio, Accademia No. 857, Venice
Phone: 39-041-5289-238
Closed Mondays
Delicious seafood Risotto for two (most places have a minimum of 2 persons to make the Risotto); fried calamari; Reenie had a veal dish. 95.000L/$44.92.

Osteria da Alberto
"local tipico veneziano"
Calle Giacinto Gallina
Cannaregio, 5401
Phone: 39-041-5238-153
Closed Sunday
www.mettingvenice.it/daalberto

Delicious risotto with shrimp and rock salad and their steak (rare) with gorgonzola cheese sauce.
Red house wine. 101.000L/$47.38. Paid with Visa.

Osteria al Duca
"Nella Casa di Romeo"
Via Arche Scaligere 2
Verona
Phone: 045-594474
I had a pasta with plum tomatoes, and pork with mushrooms (a little on the dry side); Reenie had pasta with pesto; polenta with gorgonzola, mushrooms, and salami. 48.000L/$22.51 Visa

Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso
cucina tipica veneziana"
Strada Nuova 4386
S.S. Apostoli 30131 Venezia
Phone: 39-041-523-7277
Another great meal! I had their taglitelli with bacon and mushrooms and fried calamari; Reenie had proscuitto with cheese and a pasta with porcini mushroom and scallops; we shared tiramisu for dessert. Local white wine. 48.000L/$ Paid with Visa.

Trattoria Pallotta
Vicolo della Volta Pinta, 3
06081, Assisi
Phone: 075-812649
Email: pallotta@pallottaassisi.it
www.pallottaassisi.it
We both had their crostini di pate; I had their Tagliatelle, then the Cotoletta alla Milanese (veal cutlet); Reenie had a salad and rabbit, and dessert. ½ liter of red wine (5.000L). 79.000L/$36.88 Paid with Visa.

Ristorante Pizzeria Fontanina
Via Solitaria 14/1A
Deruta
Phone: 075-9724112
We both had the salad, which was a mix of greens with goat cheese and pine nuts; Reenie had a 3 grilled meat dish, and I had the pasta with truffles, which was excellent! 76.000L/$35.48. Paid with Visa.

La Stalla
Via S. Rufino Campagna, 8
Assisi
Phone: 075-812-317
Past mile marker #12, turn left at the restaurant/hotel sign. It's about a mile outside Assisi.
This place had a hugh fireplace where the cook grilled all the meats. We both enjoyed the spinach, ricotta dumplings; grilled lamb; ½ liter of white wine; Reenie had grilled game (quail?). 54.000L/$25.34

La Fortezza
Vicolo della Fortezza, 19b, Assisi
Off Piazza del Comune
Phone: 075-812-418
Email: fortezza@krenet.it
Closed Thursdays
Excellent meal. Excellent service. Great atmosphere. I started with bruschetta with truffles, followed by cannilloni with chicken and pork with a bechamel sauce; porcini mushrooms in a garlic sauce; roasted lamb; baked cream with a fruit sauce (similar to raspberry); a nice bottle of red wine. Reenie had a wild boar appetizer followed by pidgeon in a wine sauce and assorted vegetables; Vin Santo with biscuits to dip into the wine. Her meal was a "menu"which totaled 40.000L plus the cover charge of 3.000L/$20.19. My total came to 70.000L/$32.86. Paid with Visa.

Cane e Gato
Via Pagliaresi, 6
Siena
Phone: 39-577-287545
Fax: 39-577-270227
135.000L/$63 Per person
Paid with Visa

Our 6 course meal:

- Champagne to start
- A wonderful antipasta platter of buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes, proscuitto, spicy hard salami, quiche, and crostini.
- Tomato, cream, onion soup, topped with basil
- Papparedelle with marscapone cheese
- White wine
- Risotto with artichokes
- Red wine (2 different ones throughout the meal)
- Veal with mushrooms, potatoes, and rare cooked beef with a truffle sauce (to die for!)
- Vin Santo, which is a sweet dessert wine
- A dessert plate of tiramisu, fresh fruit, an ice cream/cake topped with fresh strawberries

Fabulous meal! All of the women were presented by Papa with a lovely yellow orchid. As each dish was served, we were told what the ingredients were. Each plate was beautifully presented and again always with a smile.

Fori Porta
Via C. Tolomei, 1
Siena
Phone: 0577-222100
Great antipasta buffet: food such as stuffed tomatoes, olives, wild mushrooms, proscuitto, roasted peppers, etc. We also had a pasta dish with porcini mushrooms; bottle of white wine. 76.000L/$35.68.
I am recommending this restaurant only on the food, not the service. Maybe you'll have better luck than us.

ITALY MAY 1998

I traveled to Italy with my husband Tony in May 1998. We had 2 wonderful weeks in Italy beginning in Rome, then Naples, the Amalfi coast, Venice, and Milan. We enjoyed many great restaurants throughout our trip. Most of our dining was outside, which makes for a great evening.

ROME

LA FRASCHETTA
Via S. Angenese in Agone, 21
Roma (Piazza Navona)
Telephone: 06/688-06-86.
Our meal consisted of bruchetta w/tomatoes, cheese plate, cannelloni, a pork dish and their house wine. $48.

OSTERIA AR GALLETTO, PIAZZA FARNESE
102, Roma
Telephone: 06/686-17-14
This restaurant is off Campo di Fiori. Antipasta, veal picatta, eggplant parmesan, house wine. Very good meal for about $33. This restaurant was listed in the book Cheap Eats.

PIZZA FANTASY
Via di Pietra, 85
Roma. Telephone: 06/67-80-973
This is between the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. We started with an antipasti platter, which consisted of eggplant, mushrooms, mozzarella and tomatoes. We had the roasted chicken and house wine. Delicious meal. $30. They do serve pizzas there, which looked great.

BRUNO ALL LUNGARETTA
Via della Lungaretta 68/69
Trastevere, Roma
Telephone: 06/580-9862.
We wandered around Trastevere one day. This is old Rome. We had a very good lunch: Antipasti, penne pasta with salmon; pasta w/clams, wine. Very good meal. $29.

NAPLES

We took the 5:10pm train to Naples, which took about 1.5 hours. We stayed in Naples for 4 nights. My husband's cousin Pepino and wife Alessandra gave us their apartment while they moved in her parent's house across the street for those 4 nights. Talk about hospitality! Alessandra showed us where everything was, including their stock of family made wine. They took us around Naples, the Amalfi coast, and also to visit relatives. We wanted to go to Capri, but it rained that day. With the exception of the first restaurant listed, Pepe and Alessandra paid for our meals. In fact the first night was a disaster! My husband had gone to find the headwaiter to let him know we would pay for dinner, our treat. When Pepe found out, he exploded! "When you're in my house, I pay!" He even tried to cancel our master card charge, but it was too late. From that moment on, we didn't even try to pay. He just wouldn't let us! While having lunch on Amalfi coast one day, Pepe was wondering where the waiter was. Tony said to Alessandra, "Tell Pepe we've already paid." Pepe doesn't speak a word of English, but Alessandra speaks it pretty well. (She did carry her English/Italian dictionary wherever we went). She did so, and he got angry. When she said, they're joking, he said, "I'll leave you here!" Needless to say, they were great hosts. At other times, Alessandra's parents had us over for lunch or dinner. Let me tell you, her Mother is the best cook in Naples! Even Alessandra's grandmother came over one day and made fresh pasta! Actually she's the best cook in Naples. They wined and dined us until we just about exploded. Every bite was out of this world! If they had their own restaurant, I wouldn't tell anyone! It would be the best kept secret in the world. They were such lovely people who treated us like royalty. I couldn't even help to clear the table. The following restaurants were wonderful. Pepe and Alessandra took us to their favorite local places. The three places listed had wonderful antipasti. These restaurants gave so much food that by the time our main entrees arrived, we were stuffed! I highly recommend all these places. It was wonderful going to restaurants where there were NO tourists.

'A FENESTELLA
Via Marechiaro 23
Napoli
Telephone 081-769-0020.
This is on the waterfront in Naples; very lovely place. We started with a wide variety of delicious antipasti (lots of seafood antipasti), which could have been our meal; pizza (Naples has the best pizza in the world!), white wine. For the 4 of us it was $110.

PEPPONE
In Nerano on the Amalfi coast, Marina del Cantone
Telephone 081-808-1209.
We spent the day driving and stopping along the Amalfi coast. We started at Vietri sul Mare, then to Positano, Amalfi, then ended here. Lunch was wonderful! We started with a variety of fried seafood antipasti; then two types of pasta: one with seafood and one with zucchini; white wine. I don't know how much the meal was, but the menu was not expensive.

ADD'A FIGLIA DO MARAENARO
Via Foria, 180-182
Napoli
Telephone 081/440-827
This is near Via Toledo. We had wonderful lunch: bruchetta, a LARGE mixed seafood antipasti salad (oyster, clams, squid, shrimp, octopus, mussels); Zuppa di Cozze; beer. Absolutely delicious meal. The Zuppa di Cozze is the restaurants specialty. It consists of bread slices on the bottom of the bowl, then assorted shellfish on top, then hot sauce on top of that. There were mussels, clams, baby snails, shrimp and oysters. There isn't a broth. Delicious! Again, Pepe paid for our meal, so I don't know what the bill came to. I would imagine it to be moderately priced.

VENICE

TAVERNA SAN TROVASO
Dorsoduro, 1016 (Ponte dell'Accademia)
Venice
Telephone 041/520-3703
This restaurant is behind the Accademia museum. The only negative thing about this place is they have no outdoor dining. It's located next to a small canal, so there is no room for tables and chairs. We had a delicious meal. We started with a variety of meat antipasti; veal milanese, chicken in cream with mushrooms; marinated eggplant and mushrooms; house white wine. $37.

S. BARTOLOMEO
Near Campo San Bartolomeo
We picked up a variety of foods from this cafeteria. $13. There is a great selection to choose from that it can become quite confusing. Which to choose? The place will provide you with forks and knives for your picnic.

OMNIBUS A TERRASSE
S. Marco-Riva del Carbon 4171
Telephone 041/523-7213
This is near the Rialto bridge on the Grand Canal. We had their "tourist" menu, which was pretty good for this location. We enjoyed this place as we could watch the gondolas and vaporetto go by us. We had fried calamari; pork milanese; pasta w/clams; creme caramel. $37.

AI CUGNAI, TRATTORIA
S. Vio Accademia #857, Venice
Telephone 528-9238.
I hope you can find this place, which is behind the Accademia museum. I do have it marked on my map for those of you who may be interested. Two women waited on their customers and were quite entertaining. We had the proccuitto with melon; tortellini w/ragu and taglatelli w/ragu (freshly made pasta!); fried calamari, and torte for dessert; white wine. This was our best meal in Venice. $67.

MILAN

CALAFURIA UNIONE
Via Dell' Unione, 8
Milano,
On the corner of Via Unione and V. Arcimboldi
Telephone 864-620-91
Seafood salad and bruchetta; pasta with salmon and pasta with clams. House white wine. Good food here. $37. If I remember correctly, this was a Rick Steve's recommendation.

CIARDI LINDA E GENNARO
Via S. Raffaele, 6, Milano.
On the east side of the Galleria
Telephone 877-704
We had pizza and white wine. Very good pizza. In fact, Tony believes the cook is from Naples. I had the four seasons pizza and Tony had the procini mushroom pizza. $27.

PECKS
Near the Cathedral.
This is a wonderful take out place. We bought a variety of picnic food, which was perfectly wrapped and tied with ribbon, and ate it in our hotel lobby as it was raining most of that day. $18.