Tuesday, January 31, 2023

Greece May 2001 Journal

GREECE May 2001
 
17 May 2001:  Tony and I returned from Greece on Monday and we had a great time!  Tony had originally wanted to visit both Greece and Turkey, but I like to visit one country at a time.  There is so much to see and do and having only 2 weeks, I prefer to concentrate on one country.
 
We visited Greece back in 1993.  We stayed in Athens and after a few days visiting the archeological museum, acropolis and other sights, we went to Delphi and Cape Sounio on day trips, as well as a one day, 3-island cruise to Poros, Aegina, and Hydra.  This trip, we wanted to visit some of the Greek islands.  It was a difficult choice: so many islands, so little time!  I had considered Crete, but Crete can be a vacation in itself!  We'll safe Crete for a future trip, maybe with a side trip to Santorini.
 
Because the boat and ferry schedules for the low season we not available at time of my planning, I decided to make hotel reservations for our arrival in Athens and departure from Athens.  After sorting through lots of information and help from other travelers from Fodors.com, we decided to fly directly to Santorini and save Athens for the end of our trip.  So, I made hotel reservations at Enigma Apartments in Santorini and Hotel Attalos in Athens.  The rest we decided to play it by ear.  I had a list of hotels for the islands of Naxos, Paros, and Mykonos.  From Mykonos,  I wanted to visit Delos, but that too would be decided on once we got to the islands and the boat schedules came out.  I was informed that boats do not go to Mykonos on a daily basis from Naxos (at least in the spring time).  So, with our 2 hotel reservations, list of hotels, we were set to go. 
 
1 May 2001:  Our day of travel is always an exciting and exhausting day: packing, closing up the house, last minute chores, and dropping off Lucy (our new puppy) at Dawn's house the night before.  We had to fly to JFK from Reagan National, and then taxi over to JFK.  Our flight on Olympic Airlines was at 5:45pm.  The taxi cost us $25, which was about the same price as taking the shuttle bus.  The flight over was fine.  Food was average.  We didn't care for the service by the flight attendants.  Once they serve the food, they disappeared.  We couldn't even get another glass of wine.  We spent the evening watching a couple of movies, and then tried to sleep.  Actually, Tony can sleep anywhere!
 
2 May 2001:  We arrived at the new airport in Athens.  It took about 10 minutes for the plane to taxi to its gate.  Then the flight attendant forgot to press a button to release the door, so that was another 10 minutes or so waiting to get off the plane.  We were hoping to catch the 11:20am flight to Santorini as we were booked on the 3pm flight.  No such luck!  We waited almost 4 hours in the airport.  I was very tired. 
 
The new airport was pretty nice, but the seats in the waiting areas are terrible!  They were so uncomfortable.  I found an ATM machine and took out some money.  I decided to wait to get my Greek money until I got to Athens instead of getting some from my bank.  Apparently, the exchange rate in the U.S. is pretty bad as only a certain amount is allowed out of the country.  The airport building is very long.  We had to walk from one end to practically the other end to catch the local flight. 
 
We flew to Santorini on a small ATR, which carries about 50 passengers.  The flight was about 50 minutes long.  We were on the right side and could see Oia and Fira prior to landing.  A few minutes before landing, the flight attendant stated not to take any photographs.  There were military planes near the airport.  Tony said to me, "They probably don't want people to know that they are using out of date equipment!"
 
We had to take a shuttle bus to the terminal (we could have walked!), which was just a small building with one luggage belt.  It was ridiculous!  We could have picked up our luggage at the airplane, but I guess they wanted us to feel like we were at a big airport.
 
Our hotel arranged for a taxi to pick us up.  Outside the building, our drive held up the hotel sign, "Enigma Apartments."  I wanted a hotel on the caldera for its wonderful view.  We stayed at the Enigma Apartments.  Breakfast was included in the cost of the room (37.000DR).   We had a great view of the caldera and all the buildings hanging on the cliff.  To the right of us, we were next to Hotel Kavalari and Hotel Loucas, two other hotel choices.  Our room was very nice.  There are 8 apartments with balcony, kitchen, bath, and living room.  The building is set into the cliff.  Between the living room and kitchen was an arched wall.  (See hotel section for photos of this and the other hotels).  On our balcony, we had a small table, 2 chairs and an umbrella to use.  To actually sit out and view the other buildings, we had to move our chairs up towards the front as there were was a privacy wall between the apartments.  We were greeted by Ms. Heidi, who managed the place.  She told us there was a bottle of wine in the room for us, as well as a large bottle of water.  It was a nice treat to start our vacation.
 
We unpacked our bags while sipping on the wine.  Every few minutes I would walk outside and take in the view of Fira.  It was lovely.  I think it was one of my favorite spots in Greece.  White washed buildings hanging on the side of this cliff, donkeys climbing the stairs and walkway with goods or tourists, cats wandering the buildings, and hearing music in the distance. 
 
While sitting outside, we met one of our "neighbors" who also were on our flight from Athens.  We chatted with Lisa and Simon, who came from Australia to attend a wedding.  Their friend from South Africa was marrying a Greek woman from Santorini.  They actually were already married, but were in Santorini to have the traditional Greek wedding.  Lisa had found a grocery store nearby, so I had her show me the way so I could purchase some beer for Tony, another bottle of wine and some snacks.  It was nice having the store nearby.  There were lots of goodies to purchase: local wine, cheese, olives, meats, fresh baked bread and many other items.  I even picked up a bottle of ouzo. 
 
Tony and I were hungry and ready to set out to explore Fira and find a place for dinner.  It is a touristy town filled with souvenir shops and many, many, many jewelry shops.  I was amazed and overwhelmed at the beautiful and bountiful collection of gold, diamonds, Greek designs, contemporary designs, etc.  I had read that Santorini has the best jewelry, although a little more expensive than Athens.  We walked along the "main" street and found a place to eat: The Flame of the Volcano.  We enjoyed the food and views of Fira as we dined outside.  Our first day in Greece and we were tired, so we headed back to the room for a drink on the balcony, then to bed.
 
3 May 2001:  Sleeping up in the loft was nice.  Our bed was comfortable.  At night,  had to turn on the lights to go down stairs to the bathroom.  As I mentioned, there is no railing to hold on to and the steps are steep.  We got up around 8:30 and got ready for our first full day in Santorini.  Out on the balcony was a small young cat.  She just sat there, probably waiting for some food.  We saw a lot of cats in Santorini wandering around the area.  We were surprised at the number of stray cats and dogs.  Some day soon, the Greek authorities are going to have to put in place animal control laws.  There were just too many wandering around.  I wrote in my journal while Tony got dressed.  I met our "neighbors" a couple from Canada.  They had stayed the previous night at Hotel Panorama, but said it was terrible.  After inspecting a couple of rooms at Enigma, they settled on the room next to us.
 
The hotel serves breakfast at their outdoor café.  It was nice to sit outside and enjoy the view while eating.  We watched ships, ferries, and sail boats come and go all day long.  Passengers from cruise ships arrived via tenders as the ships were docked off shore.  The main port is a few miles south of Fira.  This day, we visited the Boutari winery.  We took the local bus there, which was about a 20-minute ride after making several stops along the way.  The tour group was small, just Tony and me!  A young woman gave us the tour, explaining their wine making process.  We also saw a film, then sampled 6 different wines.  Most were pretty good, and we bought a couple of bottles.  It was very interesting to see the vineyards as the vines were shaped into wreathes and sitting very low to the ground.  Because Santorini has very high winds in the summer time, the vines are kept low to the ground so that the winds do not destroy them. 
 
We had to wait about 45 minutes for our local bus back to Fira.  Thank goodness it was a nice day.  I certainly wouldn't like to wait in the hot summer heat.  Back in Fira, we headed back to our room.  On the way, we picked up a couple of gyro's at Lucky's - the best gyro's in all of Greece!  It's a small place across the street and up from the main bus stop.  We took the gyro's to our room and had lunch on our balcony.  These gyro's were the best we had (although Tony likes the ones at the central market in Athens better because of the added green peppers)!  They were only 400DR, just over a dollar.  And they were filling and delicious.  For the afternoon, we wandered around Fira, did a little shopping, and then took a walk to Firastefani, which was the next little town up and about ½ mile away.  We walked along the caldera on narrow walkways and steps.  I couldn't imagine taking this walk in the summer heat and with the summer crowds of people.  We stopped to see the Hotel Sun Rocks.  It was one of my choices, but decided to stay in Fira.  We were glad.  Firastefani is too far a walk to have to go back and forth, especially since we planned to use bus transportation.  This hotel was very nice and we were shown the honeymoon suite.  Lovely canopy bed, living room area, and even a fax machine!  I guess some people just can't get away from their jobs.  How sad. 
 
We noticed that many of the round domes of the churches were painted in an off white color, unlike the many shown in blue in the postcards.  There was one postcard of a blue domed church with church bells and the caldera bay behind it.  I asked a woman in a little grocery store where I could find this church.  "Down the street and to the right."  Well, down the street and to the right meant over the cliff!  After walking around the area, we saw the church bells.  We had to backtrack and eventually found the spot where photographers take this famous photo.  (See photo under the Santorini photo section).  It's not a good photo.  The sky was very hazy and the dome had been re-painted. 
 
Our challenge to find this church was done and we were ready to take a break.  We headed back to our room, had drinks, and chatted with Lisa and Simon.  For dinner, we dined at Nikolas, a very good restaurant and very inexpensive.  There are no menus, but a large blackboard at the back of the room listing their limited, but delicious, menu.  The place was filled of lots of hungry diners.  We'd definitely dine here again.   
 
4 May 2001:  The cat was outside on our balcony again this morning.  I decided to name her Santo, short for Santorini.  She was cute, but kept her distance.  This day we took the local bus to Ancient Akrotiri.  I had read that it was a very interesting place, and even saw a travel show on it.  We got there after a 30 minute or so bus ride.  After paying to get in, we walked through the ruins.  It took us only 10 minutes to see "it all!"  We were so disappointed.  It seemed that the workers were busy working on replacing the old roof that was over the ancient site, about 2 acres.  Also, a lot of the area was roped or blocked off from tourists.  So, we didn't see much, not even any painted walls.  I did get a couple shots of the Greek vases.  After this short visit, we had to wait an hour for the next bus to arrive.  We walked down to the water/beach area.  There were a couple of restaurants there.  We walked around to pass the time.  Another day of waiting for the bus.  The next time we'll rent a car.  Back in Fira, we had lunch at our hotel: Gyro's from Lucky's and some wine and beer, which we purchased at the nearby grocery store.  Yummy lunch! 
 
In the afternoon, we decided to head to Oia, but did a little shopping beforehand. We purchased our boat tickets for Naxos.  Then I started to window shop...again.  Well, we never made it to Oia as "I shopped until Tony dropped."  The jewelry stores in Fira were fabulous!  There were many stores with many, many different types of jewelry.  I was quite overwhelmed.  I had been window shopping the previous 2 afternoons, but in the ended decided upon a couple of diamond and emerald pieces.  I guess we could have gone to Oia in the evening, but we didn't feel like catching a bus there and having to 'wait' again.  We relaxed on our balcony for a while  - love the views! - before heading out to dinner at Zafora's.  It's on the main street up from the cable car.  We enjoyed a delicious meal as we watched the sun set.  After our evening walk, we headed back to our room to have an after dinner drink on the balcony. 
 
5 May 2001:  We got up around 8:30am and had our breakfast up at the cafe.  We chatted with Lisa and Simon who were also having their breakfast.  We were off to Naxos.  As the morning progressed, so did the winds.  We went back to our room to pack our bags, and since we had some time, we shopped for a few items before leaving.  Ms. Heidi arranged for a taxi to pick us up.  One of the young men working at the hotel carried our luggage to the taxi "stand."  The winds were really blowing and dust/dirt got into my eyes, bothering them as I wear contact lenses.  The ride to the port took only 15 minutes.  By then, the winds were really blowing!  The dust, sand, dirt was flying every where!  We headed for shelter at one of the port restaurants to wait for our boat.  We were worried the boat wouldn't arrive or depart.  The winds were blowing the bay water, which was quite choppy.  We sat and had "coke lites" before the boat arrived.  We got on just as it started to rain.  What a very nice boat!  It's pretty new too.  Comfortable seats (assigned seats), large windows to see outside, a cafe, etc.  The older couple that sat next to us were very friendly.  They were with a large tour group heading home.
 
We arrived in Naxos about an hour and a half later.  It had stopped raining, but was still overcast with dark clouds.  This was our first island that we arrived in without hotel reservations.  Tony saw a sign for the Naxos Tourist Office directly across from the port, which is owned and operated by Ms. Kitini.  He remembered the name from our Frommer's guidebook.  I had my list of hotels, which Ms. Kitini managed two that were on the list: Hotel Apollon and Hotel Chateau Zevgoli.  I wanted to stay in C.Z., which is in the center of town, but there was a room available for just 2 days.  We were staying for three nights and didn't want to have to pack our bags and move to another room or hotel.  Ms. Kitini drove us to Hotel Apollon, a few blocks away.  We liked the hotel very much and our room was quite comfortable.  We had a corner room with a balcony wrapped around two sides.  The windows had shutters so we could sleep soundly in a dark room.
 
After unpacking, we headed into town to have lunch.  We shared a sandwich and a meze platter, which was very good.  It was a hugh meal and could have had just one or the other. Naxos town is lovely.  There are lots of whitewashed buildings along small streets.  Some flowers were in bloom, but not too many.  Since it was the late afternoon, many of the shops and restaurants were closed.  Siesta time.  We sat at the cafe for a while enjoying the afternoon and just relaxing.  We took a walk along the port and did a little window shopping.  At least it wasn't raining.  Along the port there is a restaurant that serves delicious fresh octopus as well as calamari and cuttlefish.  We saw octopus hanging out to dry on lines and wood stands.  It looked delicious! 
 
In the evening we headed out to have pizza for dinner.  It was windy, so we had our jackets with us.  Tony was in the mood for pizza, so we ate at Restaurant Kellari, on the water front.  Very good pizza (brick oven).  The man who was managing the place (he's from Albania)  was very nice and chatted with us between serving other customers.  He even treated us to a carafe of wine, as well as dessert and a shot of ouzo!  Prior to getting back to our hotel, we walked round the town. 
 
6 May 2001:  Our morning started with breakfast in the hotel's breakfast room.  We enjoyed coffee, tea, juice, soft boiled eggs, yogurt, and delicious fresh baked bread.  We were really impressed with the breads in Greece.  Our morning was spent visiting the archeological museum as well as the Venetian home inside the kastro.   The museum was very small.  We should have purchased the museum book.  Not many of the artifacts had descriptions about them.  There were lots of vases, statues, sculptures.  At the Venetian home, there was a tour guide (from South Africa) who gave us a very interesting tour.  There were about 10 others in the group.  One can join in the tour at anytime as the tour guide continues her tour all day long.  The home had many old paintings, a piano, and portraits of the owners of the home.  She showed us the cellar, some of the rooms, one which had an excape door in the floor.  After our visits, we headed to the port area to find us some gyros for lunch.  We sat outside at a small restaurant which served only gyros. Although they were good, they certainly were not as good as at Lucky's in Fira! 
 
After lunch, we headed to a travel agency to inquire about boats to Paros or Mykonos.  According to the schedules for the day we wanted to travel, Mykonos was out of the question.  So, it was Paros for our next island.  We stopped by to see Ms. Kitini, who owns the Naxos Tourist Office.  She suggested to "get out of town" and take the local bus to Filoti.  The bus was leaving in 5 minutes across the street.  Okay, why not!  Well, the bus left at 1:30pm and we arrived in Filoti at 2pm.  There was NOTHING to see!  It seemed everyone was in their homes enjoying their siesta.  Most stores were closed.  And we were stuck there until the 5:30pm bus arrived.  Another day of waiting for the bus.  We walked along the streets, but after a while we went to a small cafe to warm up from the cold air.  It was an overcast day and quite cool.  We had a light snack and some white wine.  It tasted similar to a port wine.  We walked around a little more, but it was just too cold for me.  We found a cafe with a bunch of Greek men sitting and drinking their coffee and playing backgammon.  We had some hot tea and coffee to keep us warm.  Our bus arrived at 5:30pm and we were happy to be heading back to Naxos town!  It was a long day and we hated to waste time by waiting for the bus. 
 
Back in our hotel room, we read our books that we brought.  For dinner, we dined at the place that had the hanging octopus (KAYE OUZERI TO LIMANAKI, which is just to the left of the Grotta Tours office).  It was absolutely delicious!  We enjoyed grilled octopus as well as grilled calamari along with some local white wine.  Most of the diners were locals, which is always a good sign.  We chatted with one couple at the next table who were visiting from Paros. They own a home in Paros and go there every year for 2-3 months.  How nice!  They were on Naxos for a few days visit.  Back in our room again, we had some ouzo, then went to bed.
 
7 May 2001: We rented a car and drove around the island.  We paid 6.000Dr (about $16) for the car plus 3.000 ($8) for the gas.  Pretty cheap!  It was a tiny car, but that's all we needed for the small streets in town and narrow roads on the island.  Naxos is very mountainous and there were a lot of hair pin curves.  Some of these curves do not have guard rails!  Tony knew I was uncomfortable around these curves, so he drove slowly.  It was amazing to see the locals drive right by us without worrying about the curves or oncoming cars.  It reminded me of the Italian drivers.  We saw villages along the hillsides, goats in the middle of the road, as well as donkeys.  The day was beautiful with blue skies, white clouds, and a cool breeze.  It was a much nicer day than the day before.  During our travels, we stopped at a very old church, a Hellenic tower being restored and saw two Kouros.  We also visited the town of Apirathos.  The town sits along the side of the mountain.  We walked around the town, which was lovely.  We stopped and had lunch at a small restaurant called O Platanos.  We sat outside to enjoy the sun.  One couple stopped to ask about our meal.  "Delicious!"  We talked with Mike and Camille, from NC, for a while sharing our travel adventures.  They were staying about 2-3 miles outside Naxos town.  We swapped restaurant suggestions: We gave them our restaurant recommendations for Santorini and they gave their suggestions for Paros and Athens
 
We continued on our drive around the island where we saw the second Kouros near the beach town of Apolonas.  More curvy roads!  The map that was provided to us at the car rental agency was not accurate.  What looks like fairly straight roads or slightly curvy roads were actually very curvy/hairpin curve roads!  Also, what seems to be many miles between one point and the next is actually short distances.  Drivers beware.  We got back to Naxos town around 5pm, so we dropped off the car.  We were allowed to keep the car until the next morning, but there was no point.  We walked into town and purchased our boat tickets for Paros the next day.  Along the way, we ran into Mike and Camille.  They were in town for the rest of the evening.  We talked for a few minutes with them, then headed our separate ways.  I wanted to take some photographs of the boats in the port as well as the Portara.  After, we headed back to our room to relax, have a little wine, and do some reading.
 
For dinner, we headed straight back to the restaurant KAYE OUZERI TO LIMANAKI.  As we were enjoying the first dish of octopus, tzatziki and caraffe of wine, Mike and Camille showed up.  They joined us for dinner, who also loved every bite.  We ended up having 3 carafes of wine, the tzatziki, and 3 different dishes: the octopus, the calamari, and a combination plate of calamari and cuttle fish.  For our portion, we paid $26.50.  It was worth every penny.  After dinner, we headed to a bakery/pastry shop with Mike and Camille and joined their friends for dessert.  Tony and I enjoyed tiramisu.  I know, it's not baklava, but it was good!  We headed back to our room as I was tired and had a little too much wine to drink.  We had a really great time with Mike and Camille. 
 
8 May 2001: We're off to Paros.  Our boat was scheduled to leave at 12:15pm.  We got up, showered, had breakfast, then packed our bags. We had plenty of time, so we headed to town with our luggage to the Naxos Tourist Office.  We paid our hotel bill, got my passport back, and left our luggage there for a couple of hours.  When Ms. Kitini asked me how much she quoted me for the room, I said 18.000DR.  Well, she charged my credit card 18.000DR.  I guess she didn't remember we were there for three nights, so I had her charge against my Visa for the other two nights.  If I hadn't caught the error, that would have been a really cheap stay.  We walked around the port area and I picked up a couple of souvenirs.  Around 10:30am, we noticed one boat leaving.  It was the Express Athina.  Our boat!  We quickly ran into a travel agency and the woman behind the counter said the boat would be back in time for the 12:15 schedule, or close to that time.  I had panicked because the next boat to Paros was at 3pm and I didn't want to wait that long.  This boat was running late.  More walking around, then we went to get our luggage and wait at the port so we wouldn't miss our boat.  While waiting at the port, we ran into the Canadian couple we met in Santorini, who stayed at the apartment next door to us at Enigma Apartments.  They said we were lucky that we left Santorini when we did.  The weather had gotten worse and boats were not able to arrive/depart for 2 days.  They said the winds were incredible.  We were lucky. 
 
Our boat arrived and after the passengers got off, we all got on.  It departed at 12:30pm.  The boat ride took 1 hour to get to Paros.  Upon arrival in Paros, we asked a police officer where to find Hotel Asterias.  Ms. Kitini recommended the hotel and it was one of my choices from my research.  The hotel is located about 400 meters north of the port, along the main street.  There were plenty of rooms available, in fact all of them!  We were the only guests there until the day we left Paros, when they were expecting a group of travelers.  Our room was very plain, but fine for us.  We unpacked our bags, then headed out to find a place for lunch.  As usual, at this time of day, many places were closed.  In the center of the town, we found a restaurant (Distrato), which served salads, sandwiches, crepes, etc.  We had a good lunch and chatted with the owner.  We stayed for a while relaxing under the umbrellas.  We walked around town for a while.  We stopped at a grocery store to pick up a bag of pistachio nuts.  They were so inexpensive, but I didn't think to purchase a few bags to bring home.  We also picked up a 5 liter container of local white wine.  Talk about cheap! It was only $4.20 for the whole container!  We headed to our room.  Since most places were still closed, we decided to have our own siesta.  Back in our room, we sat on our balcony while sipping on our very inexpensive white wine and reading our books.
 
In the evening, we walked around town to find a restaurant for dinner.  The man at the cafe at lunchtime recommended Porphyra's, which was also listed in the Frommer's guidebook.  As we walked to the restaurant, Tony noticed the power lines sparking.  He said, "it's not supposed to do that."  Then about 5 minutes later, the electricity went out along the whole port area.  Well, we ended up dining at Porphyra's by candlelight.  We enjoyed our meal, including having shark for the first time.  It was delicious.  We also had fried mullet and a couple of appetizers.  We headed back to our room as Tony's knee was hurting him.  No evening walk this night.
 
9 May 2001: We didn't sleep well at all last night.  There were mosquitos in our room. Even though we put lotion on our arms and face, they still hung around.  We also had the doors open for the fresh, cool air (the room was warm from the afternoon sun), but that brought in more mosquitoes and the noise from the street in front of the hotel.  We asked the owner to provide us the remote control for the A/C for the next two nights.  She offered to spray our room as well.  After breakfast, we rented a car to drive around the island.  We drove along and stopped at a couple of beaches and towns.  The town of Lefkes was very nice.  We had lunch in Naoussa.  We dined outside with several locals enjoying their afternoon drinks.  Some of them even sang some songs.  I'm glad we stayed in town instead of Naoussa.  Naoussa was very nice, but more of a resort area.  Tony got tired of driving because the car didn't have power steering or power breaks and after all the curves in the road, well, you can imagine.  The beaches on Paros were very nice and clean.  The water was so pretty with the blues and greens.  The island was a lot smaller than Naxos, so we got back to town fairly early.  We went to our room to get our bathing suits, and headed to Kolimbithres beach, near Naoussa.  The beach area was small.  The rock formations were very interesting.  We laid out for just an hour because the sun was very bright and warm.  There was only one other couple on the beach and a few in the water.
 
Back in town, we dropped off the car, showered, and relaxed in our room.  I wrote in my journal while Tony took a nap.  For dinner, we enjoyed a delicious meal at small restaurant near the cathedral.  I had a lamb dish while Tony had moussaka.  The only distraction at the place were three young college women.  Only one was doing all the talking and I swear she could have been on the set of Road Rules or The Real World.  All she talked about (actually whined the whole time) was about her boyfriend.  I did overhear her say 'Real World' at one point  and I wondered if they were actually from that ridiculous show.  The other two girls just sat and listened.  They looked bored.  We were so glad when they left.  I was ready to get up and tell them to grow up!  After dinner, we walked around and I bought some pistachio ice cream for dessert. 
 
10 May 2001: This day was a very lazy day.  We knew there wouldn't be a whole lot to see in town.  We skipped breakfast and headed out for day.  We visited the Church museum, which was very interesting.  In the courtyard, church bells hung in the branches of a large tree.  We found a pastry shop and purchased a few goodies.  A very rich, sweet breakfast.  We walked along the small streets while I took some photographs.   We headed to the archeological museum, which was much larger than the one on Naxos.  Much of the artifacts were the same: vases, sculptures, statues, gold pieces, and fragments of other types of pottery.  For lunch, we just had some gyros.  They were good, but again, not as good as at Lucky's in Fira.  We sat at the outdoor cafe watching people as they headed to the port to take their boats to some new destination.  In the afternoon, I window shopped and purchased a couple of small items.  We also purchased our boat tickets for Piraeus the next day.  We headed back to our room to relax on the balcony.  We had a nice view of the bay and beach area.  We decided to sit in the hotel's outdoor cafe.  It was just the two of us sipping on some of our wine and munching on pistachio nuts.  It was a cool day with the winds blowing gently.  We took a nap for a while, just like the Greeks.  Things do shut down in the afternoon from about 1pm to 5pm. 
 
In the evening, we walked around a bit before heading to a restaurant recommended in the Frommer's guide book: Boudaraki.  It's located on the south side of the port area, just over a small bridge on the left hand side.  There were only 4 other couples dining there.  We sat outside.  Our meal was very good and was one of the best on our trip.  Tony had lamb cooked in a ceramic pot while I had chicken in a cream, garlic, bacon and mushroom sauce.  It was rich, but very good and not seen on other menus.  Our meal was only $17.  We also had some local white wine.  No appetizers this evening and we were glad.  The meal was filling.  We did have dessert, complimentary from the owner: a delicious baklava-type dessert.  A couple of cats walked in and just sat at our feet hoping to be fed.  One of the other couples took care of them.  A little while later, the cats started to fight.  Fur was flying everywhere.  The owner came out and sent them on their way.  We walked slowly back to our hotel through the tourist area where all the shops and other restaurants are located. 
 
11 May 2001: We got up around 8:30am.  After our showers and breakfast, we headed out to the grocery store to buy our lunch for the boat ride to Piraeus.  It was a 5 hour ride and after hearing about the expensive food on board, we wanted to have a picnic on board.  We bought a fresh loaf of sesame bread, Paros cheese, salami, a small can of marinated octopus, a small container of taramasolata, a can of dolmades, and a small bag of pistachio nuts.  Back in our room, we packed our bags.  We had saved two large empty water bottles and poured the white wine into them.  A lot remained, but we knew we couldn't drink it all.  Tony also had 2 bottles of Greek beer, but decided to leave it behind (only about .65 cents each).  The only hotel that had a refrigerator was the one on Santorini.
 
Around 11:15, we checked out and headed to the port.  Our bags were heavy, but manageable.  Our boat, the Express Poseidon, left at 12:20pm.  We left our luggage at the entrance of the boat, like many of the other travelers.  The first time we did this (from Santorini to Naxos), we felt a little uncomfortable.  But since we didn't have any valuables inside (except my film!), we decided it was okay to leave them where they were.  We went to one of the lounges and had our picnic.  People around us watched with envy while we ate our delicious meal with our wine.  After lunch, we found a place to sit outside and we read our books or just looked out to the sea.  We saw five military ships in the distance, but we couldn't tell from which country they were from.  It was a nice sunny day and a lot of young people were sunning themselves.  Although the boat ride was 5 hours long, it was a very nice and relaxing afternoon.
 
Arriving in Piraeus, the air was filled with pollution, but not too bad.  There was a constant haze in the air.  I think it would be worse in July and August in the hot summer heat.   The port was filled with other boats and ferries and in the distance I counted 23 barges.  We were the first off the boat as we had gone down early to get our luggage.  We headed to the metro station, which was difficult to find at first.  I had a map of Piraeus, but wasn't sure which dock we had landed.  After a few minutes, we figured out the directions.  Just follow the other tourists.  The metro tickets were 400DR.  We took the metro to the Monistiraki stop. At this square, it was very busy with traffic and people coming and going from the metro.  We also saw a sign for McDonald's.  How sad.  
 
From there, we headed north on Athina two blocks to our hotel Attalos.  We checked in our room, #511, which had a balcony with a view of the Acropolis.  The room was small, but nice.  The drapes and bedspread did not match, but looked new.  The bathroom was very tiny, but usable.  We went downstairs to ask Maria, the woman at the desk,  to have someone spray the room for mosquitos.  We saw two in the room.  If there's two, there's more.  Also, the A/C wasn't working.  She came up to our room about 5 minutes later with new batteries for the remote control and told us someone would come in and spray our room. 
 
After unpacking some of our clothes (by this time in our vacation I do not unpack everything), we headed to the Plaka.  The people!  It was much more crowded than we remember from our trip in 1993.  We walked around the area for a while, remembering some of the streets from before.  We went to a restaurant which served only mezes.  The waiter comes to the table with a large tray and about 12 different dishes.  We enjoyed tzatziki, eggplant, meatballs, octopus cooked with vegetables, stuffed vine leaves. Also included with our meal was bread, a large carafe of red wine, and a large bottle of water, which we didn't open but took back to our room.  We sat upstairs and as the evening went on, the placed filled up.  We sat next to an older couple from Holland.  After dinner, we walked back to our hotel and headed to the roof top garden bar.  We enjoyed a spectacular view of the Acropolis.  There were no buildings in the way.  It was great to sit outside and enjoy the view.  What a nice way to end the day.
 
12 May 2001: This day we spent visiting the central market, Acropolis, Agora, and Plaka.  We opted not to have breakfast in our hotel.  We headed to the central market, which was on the right a couple of blocks.  This place is not for those with weak stomachs.  All kinds of meats hang in the market: whole lamb, rabbit, beef, even pigs heads.  There is also a fishmarket with many varieties of fish and seafood.  The octopus looked wonderful.  Near the central market, we found a place serving gyros, which we had as our breakfast.  They were very good.  Almost as good as Lucky's.  Tony liked these better because in addition to the regular ingredients, these had some chopped green peppers. 
 
After our delicious breakfast, we headed to the Acropolis.  On the way there, we walked past Syntagma square, then saw the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown solder.  We headed up to the Acropolis from the north side/Plaka side.  There were a lot of people there.  I enjoyed seeing the Parthenon again.  Even though there is scaffolding, it's a spectacular sight.  I suppose it will be many years before the project is finished.  We visited the museum, which is included as part of the entry ticket.  After visiting the museum, we headed down to the Agora.  I remember back in 1993 we could walk around the area without any entry fee.  Now we had to pay to get in.  Inside the Agora's market building is a museum, also included in the price of the ticket.
 
For lunch, we headed to the Psiri area, which is west of our hotel.  There were several restaurants in the area filled with lots of locals.  We didn't see many tourists in this area.  The food looked good at one place (Zeidwron) so we stopped in for lunch.  Tony had a delicious meal of sausage and peppers cooked in a tomato based sauce.  I had a pork dish with vegetable and cheese baked in parchment paper.  We didn't have any appetizers at this meal.
 
We were tired from all the walking and hiking around the Acropolis, so we headed back to the room to rest.  Well, Tony did.  I headed out to do some shopping.  I was gone only an hour as I ran out of money.  There were some stores with lovely ceramics.  Back in the room, I wrote in my journal.  The day was very overcast.  I suppose my photos won't come out well. 
 
For dinner, we dined in the Plaka at O Platano.  We sat outside with many other people.  We ordered too much.  We had spinach pies (ordered 2 thinking they would be for one person), eggplant salad, and two lamb dishes: one with eggplant and the other with peas.  Everything was delicious.  We had a bottle of Santorini Boutari white wine, which was very good.  Our meal was about $30.  We headed back to our hotel after walking around the Plaka and seeing all the tourists there.  We went to the rooftop garden and ordered ouzo's.  They were expensive. 
 
13 May 2001: Mother's Day and our last full day in Greece.  Another overcast and cold day.  These last two days in Athens were the only days that I wore pants during the day.  All the other days were warm and sunny enough for shorts.  We headed to the Plaka's flea market, which was just a few blocks south of our hotel.  It was amazing to see all the junk for sale.  There were many shops selling all kinds of things: antiques, military clothing, jewelry, souvenirs, etc.  The flea market was hugh.  There were so many piles of things.  In one area of the Plaka, there was a booth set up and people were passing out flowers.  It was for Mothers Day.  The flowers were in a small container to keep fresh for the day. I was given one, but later placed it on a bench as I couldn't carry it all day long. 
 
We did a lot of walking this day.  We headed to the National Archeological museum.  Along the way we picked up some food to munch on.  We visited the museum for a couple of hours.  One exhibit we wanted to see was closed.  It was on Cycladic art, including artifacts from Ancient Akrotiri in Santorini.  After this museum, we walked to the War museum.  It was raining lightly all morning.  We got to the museum in time to see most of the exhibits before it closed at 2pm.  There was no charge for the museum, which was nice.  Outside the building were a few war airplanes on display.  The museum had artifacts from the wars that Greece was involved with.  Swords, guns, uniforms, paintings, photographs. 
 
Next, we walked back to the Plaka, via the Olympic stadium.  We sat in the stands for a while giving our feet a break.  Back in the Plaka we had donar kebabs for lunch, which were very good.  We were very tired after all that walking.  We must have walked a few miles.  We were nonstop from 10am to 3pm.  Back in our room we took a nap for a couple of hours.  It was nice to relax for a while. 
 
In the evening we dined at Byzantino in the Plaka.  We had a few mezes for our meal.  We had a late lunch so we were not very hungry.  We took our time eating and enjoying the evening.  We walked around the Plaka and I bought some pistachio ice cream.  It was very good!  We were in bed by about 11pm.  This was our last evening in Greece
 
14 May 2001: Time to go home.  We got up at 8am.  Our taxi would be waiting for us at 9am.  We didn't have a lot to pack since we didn't completely unpack our bags when we arrived at Attalos.  Checkout was fast and the taxi drive was waiting for us.  It took about 50 minutes to get to the new airport and cost us 6.000DR/$15.65.  The traffic was very heavy in town. After we got out of the area, it was a quick ride to the airport.  Our flight was at 12:20pm, so we had time to find the VAT refund office, have some breakfast, and head to our gate.  As usual, we had a difficult time finding the VAT refund office.  I swear these foreign countries don't want anyone to get their refund back, so they hide these offices.  We asked several people in uniform, who only said, "go ask...."  We finally found it.  It's on the right side, just on the other side of the Passport Control booths.  There is a small sign that reads, "Customs Control," not "VAT Refund Office."  I would never had thought that it was the refund office.  I have a map of the airport if anyone wishes to see it.  I have even marked the place for the refund office as well as the post office on the first level.  That's the other problem: after getting the refund certificate stamped, there's no mail box.  I had to give up my passport at the control booth tp go down stairs to the post office to drop off the envelope.  I could have waited until I got home, but I wanted it mailed from Athens.  It was really irritating!
 
We had breakfast at (ugh!)...McDonalds, although they did not serve the typical McDonald's food.  I had a spinach pie and Tony had a sandwich.  After, he went to the duty free store to spend the rest of our Greek money.  He purchased a bottle of Metaxa.  I would have preferred Ouzo!
 
Our flight left on time but getting on board took a while.  The security was very good at the airport, so I didn't mind the long wait.  I'd rather have them check everyone out carefully than not at all.  We had the exit seats (front door), but were asked to move so that the flight attendants could use the area for their carts.  I didn't care to move, but we did.  The flight was half empty.  The lunch was very good, especially the salads: smoked salmon and eggplant salad.  The flight was fine, but we hated Olympic Airlines.  They didn't show any movies at all!  There were four shows that they kept repeating throughout the flight.  Many people were angry.  The other problem as I mentioned before, was that after everyone was served their meal, the flight attendants disappeared.  What an airline. 
 
It was a very long day getting home.  Our flight home was 9.5 hours long!  We had moved back to our exit seats prior to landing, so we were the first off after the first class passengers.  We landed at JFK around 3pm.  We grabbed a taxi, who whisked us to LGA in the afternoon rush hour traffic.  We missed catching the 4pm flight to Reagan National, so we had to wait for the 5pm flight.  The flight line was backed up with a dozen planes in front of us were waiting to take off.  Our flight finally took off around 5:40pm.  The flight was short and after landing and getting to our car via shuttle bus, we drove to Dawn's house to pick up Lucy.  We stayed for dinner, and then headed home.   We got home around 10pm.  Yes, it was a very long day!  It was good to be home in our own bed. 
 
Greece is a wonderful place to visit!  The islands were lovely as well as the beaches with its clear blue water.  We'd certainly return again.  It was a very relaxing trip.  Visiting the island wasn't like visiting a large city such at Paris or Rome where there are many, many things to see and do.  The islands are perfect for those that want to enjoy the beaches, restaurants andto just have a relaxing vacation.  We found that our stay of 2.5 days on each island was perfect for us.  Any longer, we would have been bored, especially since we're not the type to hang out on a beach all day long. 
 
We certainly enjoyed the food and never got tired of eating Greek food, although someimte we felt all we did was eat.  The local wines were good and inexpensive.  Lunch of gyros were inexpensive and delicious - Go to Lucky's in Fira!!!  We could have spent less on our meals by skipping the wine and beer, but even with the drinks, the meals were very reasonable.
 
I think Fira was one of my favorite places.  I just loved sitting on our terrace enjoying the views of the caldera.  Both ports of Naxos and Paros were very nice.  I liked the small streets of Naxos and the beaches of Paros.  My next trip?  Italy in November with Dawn!  Time to start planning!
 
WEB SITES USED:
http://www.gtp.gr/  Greek Travel Pages (search boat schedules)
http://www.dilos.com/  Travel page on Greece.  Good site for hotels.
http://www.greektravel.com/  Matt Barrett's guide to Greece
http://www.attalos.gr/  Hotel Attalos in Athens
http://www.enigmahotel.com/index.html Enigma Apartments in Fira, Santorini
http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/paros/paroikia/asterias/home.htm  Hotel Asterias, Paros
http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/naxos/chora/apollon/home.htm  Hotel Apollon in Naxos
http://www.naxosnet.com  Naxos Island
 

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