Tuesday, January 31, 2023

Bermuda Cruise October 2006

Trip to Bermuda: 7-14 October 2006
 
 
October 17, 2006: 
 
Tony and I returned from a wonderful 7-night cruise to Bermuda.  I booked this cruise in June after my friend Shaun invited us to join him and his fiancée Melonee after I invited him to join us on a Mediterranean/Black sea cruise for October 2007…I’m still trying to convince them to join us. 
 
Tony and I have never been to Bermuda and thought the price of the cruise was very reasonable.  We liked the idea of cruising to Bermuda rather than a land based trip since Bermuda is a very expensive place to visit.  Hotels start around $250, which is out of our price range.  Dining is very expensive too. With the cruise, we had our room and board, tons of dining options and entertainment.
 
Planning this cruise was really easy since it was just one place (two port stops) we would be visiting.  I met fellow passengers on Cruise Critic and even organized a sail away party for our group. 
 
Friday October 6, 2006:  
 
This was the first time I packed my suitcase “last minute.”  I did have most of my things out (my home office was a mess!) but I sort of panicked since I gave myself just a couple of hours to pack.  And I over packed.  I figured since we were driving to the port, rather than flying, I could take extra clothes.  No worries about luggage or weight restrictions.  In addition to the usual items, we packed our beach mats, reef shoes and my mask & snorkel.  
 
We dropped Lucy off at my in-laws house.  She was NOT a happy dog that we left her there.  She stayed overnight and then was taken to a friend’s house to take care of her for the rest of the trip.  We left Frederick at 11 am and got to our hotel in Avenel NJ at 5pm.  We stopped along the way to get a bite to eat and fill the car with gas.  We drove via Rte 78 through Allentown PA to avoid any Friday traffic on 95 and the NJ turnpike.  It had rained in Frederick, but no rain the rest of the day.  However, there was a tropical depression near Ocean city, so lots of rain and winds on the east coast.  The hotel was located in a real crappy area.  We met up with Vicki, a fellow cruise mate, who got us a discount at the room since she works for Marriott.  She was traveling with her mother Fay and Fay’s friend Darlene.  Our room was only $35 plus taxes.  The room was nice and the bed was comfortable.  This was a Fairfield Inn and Suites, so our stay included continental breakfast.  Thanks again Vicki!
 
Before dinner, Tony and I went out to get cash from an ATM and also pick up some bottled water for our cabin.  We found a Shop-Rite store, which reminded us of Wegman’s, a wonderful grocery store.  We thought we’d stop there before heading home to pick up some meats and cheese, but later decided against it. 
 
For dinner the five of us dined at Dominic's, a very good family style Italian restaurant. We didn't know it was a BYOB, but the waitress gave us each a glass of wine from the kitchen.  I thought it tasted liked cooking wine!  She later asked us how we liked it.   I just told her, "It’s not bad."  She wasn’t too happy with that answer.  Well, I didn't want to say it was bad! The ossobucco was delicious!
 
After dinner, Vicki opened a bottle of wine and we had drinks in our room while the ladies went to bed. 
 
Vicki arranged our car service for 10:30am but it arrived at 11am.  We got $10 off the bill for their tardiness.  The driver Anthony picked us up in a Lincoln but it was not large enough for 5 people.  I had to squeeze up in front. Thank goodness the trunk was deep and all of our luggage fit.  None of us were pleased with this, but at least we were on our way to the port.
 
Saturday October 7th Bayonne NJ/Cape Liberty
 
We arrived to the port at 11:30am.  There were plenty of porters to take the luggage but man, they were rude and pushy.  I only had the large suitcase for them to take. The rest Tony and I carried directly to our room.  My wine and champagne, for our in cabin consumption, made it on board without any problems.  Based on other people’s comments, no wine was taken away from any passenger. 
 
Check in literally took 5 minutes and absolutely no waiting in line.  I had checked in via the Celebrity web site prior to leaving home. This was the fasted that I have ever checked in on a cruise.  It was a breeze. We had our photo taken and then on to the bus to take us to the ship, which was just a 2-3 minute ride.
 
We walk on board via deck 3 (deck 5 was open too but you have to climb two flights of stairs) and I was surprised to see NO champagne!  We walked up 1 flight to our deck and there standing near the elevators were two waiters with platters of champagne filled glasses. We quickly dropped off our luggage and went back for our glass of champagne.  Let the cruise begin!  Up on deck 11 we ran into some cruise critic members (Misti, John, Carol, Dolores, Ken, and Lee) while in the food line at the windsurf cafe.  We had lunch with friends Mike and Maureen. 
 
After lunch, the 4 of us checked out the dining room and found our table, #136.  It was very close to the entrance and the piano and seemed like we would be in the way of the waiters; however, we were very comfortable there.  We checked out the various areas on the ship.  The Zenith is much smaller than the Millennium and Constellation, but I felt very comfortable on board.  The Zenith has a cozier feel. 
 
At the Marina bar we met up with some of the cruise critic members for our sail away party.  We hung out for a while before having to do the muster drill, which went by quickly.  We went to the top deck to watch the scenery as we left NJ. We could see the skyline of NYC, the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island.  We sailed under the Verrazano Bridge.  It was very cold outside with the wind and the temperature was in the low 60s.
 
My camera started to act up and didn’t work properly the rest of the trip.  It was accidentally knocked out of my hand a couple of months ago but Tony fixed it…or so we thought.  The lens wouldn’t retract completely, so I had to be very careful with the lens so that I wouldn’t get it scratched or filled with dust.  At least I could still take pictures.  I’m not sure if this is covered under the 1-year warranty.  If not, I lost a lot of mula on this purchase.
 
We went back to the room and unpacked our clothing.  I was glad that my suitcase got there early.  Our room, cabin 4102, was pretty nice but does show the age of the Zenith.  The bed looked like it sagged, but it was actually very comfortable to sleep in.  Our beds were pushed together and against one wall, so getting out of bed at night meant scooting down to the foot of the bed. Our room had upper bunks too, but they were not in the way.  We didn’t have any mini refrigerator, but I didn’t miss it on this cruise.  There was plenty of closet and drawer space.  The shower was large enough to move around.  Our cabin attendant was Santano Rosario from India. He always had a smile on his face and kept our room clean.  We never saw him he was that good!
 
At 7pm we met Mike and Maureen in the Martini bar for the martini tasting. I've done this before: $10 for six different types of martinis.  I gave Tony the regular martini.  I loved the Flirtini!
 
Dinner was at 8:30pm. Our table of 6 included Mike, Maureen, and Shaun and Melonee.  We had a nice time together.  For dinner I had their veal picatta, which was excellent.  I started with a mushroom pastry appetizer, while Tony had the shrimp cocktail.  I had the tomato bisque and Caesar salad. Tony had the prime rib. And for dessert: Crème Brule!!  Yum! 
 
I was tired so I went to bed. We didn’t go to the welcome party, but we didn’t mind. 
 
Sunday October 8th at Sea
 
Sunday was a beautiful day.  I woke up about 8am, but it was actually 7am, as we lost an hour due to the time change in Bermuda.  The seas were pretty rough, although I slept well.  Many people were sick and barf bags were placed throughout the ship, including next to the elevators.  We didn't get to the cruise critic party at 9:30am because of the time change.  Only 17 people showed up.  I was told Celebrity would give it a second try on another day since so many people missed it. There were about 71 people signed up.  It turned out they hosted it again on our second sea day, but what was the point?
 
Tony and I had a light breakfast on the aft deck 11.  I had a part of a bagel with smoked salmon and grapefruit.  The breakfast buffet was the same every day:  assorted breads, pastries, a variety of fruit, smoked salmon, cream cheese; assorted meats, cheese; scrambled eggs, bacon, corned beef hash, cereal, etc…  There was also a waffle and pancake station.  At the aft at the Windsurf café, there was an omelet station. 
 
At 11:30am Celebrity held an anniversary and honeymooners party, which we had received an invitation in our cabin.  One couple had been married for 67 years!  Anna and Hooch, another cruise critic member, were married 18 years ago on the 8th, just like Tony and me.  Champagne and cake were served…well, one small glass of champagne and a piece of cake for each couple.  We were told "the champagne will be flowing," but it wasn't.  Tony got up and got 2 more glasses from the bar.  Tony felt the whole event was cheesy.  They should have either skipped it completely or done a much better job. Once the cruise director left the spotlight, he and the rest of the crew (minus 2 bartenders) disappeared. 
 
I had a small lunch on deck at the pool area while watching the pool events.  I also like to people watch.  All the deck chairs were filled with people enjoying the sun and outdoors.  Yes, people do hog the chairs.  I felt a little queasy because of the rough ocean.  I took another seasick pill and felt fine the rest of the day.
 
While on the pool deck, there were several events:  Sherbet was served (I do like the little things that Celebrity does for its passengers), a chef did a fruit carving demonstration with watermelon; and there was contest with four guys who had to dance, sing, yell like Tarzan and serenade to a woman. It was pretty funny.
 
Every day at 5pm, the sushi bar opens up.  We enjoyed the variety they had every day!   We enjoyed this before our 8:30pm dining time. 
 
Sunday was our first formal night and our 18th wedding anniversary.  My travel agent had informed Celebrity that we would be celebrating our anniversary, so we received a cake after dinner.  However, we already ate our dessert, so we didn’t eat it. In addition, I think they use the same cake to celebrate other people’s events. 
 
Monday October 9th Hamilton
 
We arrived in Hamilton about 9am. We got up early enough to watch as we sailed into the harbor.  We saw many beautiful and expensive homes on the way in.  I saw a few that I would love to call home!  Hamilton is a lovely town with very colorful buildings. 
 
After our usual breakfast, we took the bus to Horseshoe bay with Mike, Maureen, Shaun, and Melonee. We all purchased the 3-day bus and ferry pass ($28pp) at the bus station, which was located a block up from the ship and two blocks inland.  We all loved the beach with its wonderful soft powdery sand.  The weather was perfect too.  I spent most of the time in the water playing in the waves.  I also took a few photos with my underwater camera.  Later, Mike, Tony and I walked to other parts of the beach.  There are lots of secluded spots; however, we enjoyed the far end of the beach away from the rest of the crowd.  There are changing facilities, which I used.  I took a very cold shower, as I wanted to get the salt off of me. We were surprised at how salty the water was, more so than other beaches. 
 
After our time at the beach, Mike, Maureen, Tony and I headed to the Dockyards, while Shaun and Melonee stayed at the beach.  We took the $1pp van ride to the top of the hill.  Now, it wasn’t overly steep, we just decided to ‘splurge.’
 
Once in the Dockyards, we headed to the Frog and Onion pub for some drinks and snacks.  I had their fish chowder, which was pretty tasty and one of the few reasonably priced items on the menu.  Shaun and Melonee popped in and joined us.  Sitting at the next table were Misti, John, and Carol who were enjoying their lunch.  Anthony, our waiter, kept joking with us, so when our bill came, we all gave our boarding card for payment.  He laughed!
 
Just before heading to the ferry to get back to the ship, we ordered drinks in to-go cups.  I was surprised we could do that, but we were in Bermuda!  Ferrying over to Hamilton was very nice and relaxing.  It took only 20 minutes to cross the bay.
 
After dinner we went to the Island Night at the pool deck.  It was fun to watch people dancing and having a good time.  Of course, they did the typical line dancing that should have died in 1987.  Lots of food was served but we were still full.  I suppose that’s the one negative thing about eating at the late seating.  The advantage is having more time to prepare for dinner after getting on board the ship or even going to the gym…which I never saw.  Ribs, chicken, fruits and assorted desserts were served. 
 
Tuesday October 10th Hamilton
 
While having breakfast on the pool deck, we saw a Royal Caribbean ship come in to port.  I learned that there was also a ship in St George and one at the Dockyards.  It made me realize we made a very good decision to go to Horseshoe bay when we did, as I’m sure the beach was packed on this day. 
 
We walked around Hamilton after breakfast and met up with Mike and Maureen at the ferry dock at 9:50am to catch the 10am ferry.  We ferried over to the Dockyards and toured the maritime museum ($10pp). I felt the price was great for all that we saw, including the dolphins at Dolphin Quest.  I was surprised we could see them. I thought they would be in a different area. On the grounds were sheep and goats. We wandered through the museums and grounds. 
 
Mike wanted to have drinks at the Frog and Onion, but I suggested we go to Somerset Village for drinks and lunch.  Something different to see.  The bus ride was just about 10 minutes.  Somerset Village is tiny.  We dined at outdoor terrace of the Somerset Squire Country Pub, located along the water.  Tony and I had the fish and chips, which were very good and probably the cheapest on the island ($12.50). Maureen had a Caesar salad with grilled chicken and Mike had a fish sandwich, all good.  The place had a few other customers, but overall, it was a nice quiet place to have lunch and relax.  I think Somerset Village is a place most people don’t visit based on the number of tourists I saw.  It did rain a little but we were sitting under large umbrellas.  
 
After lunch, we wanted to go to the lighthouse, but after three busses passed us packed with tourists, and also discovering the place closed at 4pm, we took the bus back to the dockyards, Maureen and I window shopped while the guys had a beer. 
 
We did see a moped accident with some locals while waiting for the bus in Somerset Village.  There were two guys on mopeds and we could tell they ended up with “Bermuda tattoos,” i.e. road rash.  They tried to pass a car that was turning but cut the driver off and they ran into the back of the car.  A woman at the bus stop told us not to think about renting mopeds.  There are just too many accidents on the island, especially with tourists who are not comfortable driving on the left side of the road.
 
After taking the ferry back, Tony and I walked around town. We even checked out one of the local grocery stores.  Some of the food products were reasonably priced.
 
Dinner was fabulous!  Appetizers included salmon mouse and duck parfait.  I think we all ordered the rack of lamb, which was just amazing.  It was cooked perfectly and size/portion was very good.  Desserts were delicious too and always a nice variety to choose from. 
 
After dinner we attended the newly and not-so newlywed game.  It was very funny!  This included a couple who was married for just a few days and one couple married for 67 years. 
 
Wednesday October 11th St. George 
 
Tony and I woke up at 8am so we could watch as we entered the “cut” into St. George.  The cut is a narrow entrance and only smaller ships like the Zenith can go through it.  As we entered the cut, the town's crier greeted the ship with a single canon shot and his welcome.   By the time we arrived at the pier, so did the town crier, where again he greeted us.  It was a beautiful clear, sunny morning.  I took lots of photos as we entered the port. St. George is just lovely with its colorful houses.  It’s smaller than Hamilton and has more charm.
 
We ran into Mike, so the three of us ate breakfast in the dining room.  Tony and Mike both had eggs Benedict while I had a Spanish omelet.  We sat with a couple from Canada.  So far everyone was enjoying the cruise.
 
We decided to go to Tobacco Bay to do some snorkeling.  We went ahead of the rest since Maureen, Shaun and Melonee hadn't had breakfast yet.  It was a nice walk from the ship through town to the bay (just over a mile).  We stopped along the way to see the Unfinished Church.  As we continued to the beach, the clouds came in.  I snorkeled for a short while. It was too cloudy to take any good photos, so I just took three.  Soon after I got out of the water it rained.  We packed up and started to walk back to the ship and it came down in buckets!  Fortunately I spotted a small shelter at a golf course, which we sat and waited out the rain.  After about 45 minutes, it turned to a light sprinkle.  We headed to town and to King's square.  There, the town's crier was in the middle of "punishing" two people.  The square has stocks, a pillory and a whipping post, and the crier was reenacting what might have happened 400 years ago.  One person was a tourist and the other an actor.   She was "charged" with being a gossip and nag.  We got to see her being dunked in the water several times.
 
We ran into the four others, who obviously didn't make it to the beach because of the rain.  We all had a drink at the bar in the town square, White Horse Tavern, and then Tony and I headed back to the ship to shower, while the rest went on a glass bottom boat ride. 
 
After our shower, we window shopped in town and again ran into the gang.  They were taking pictures of each other in the stocks, so Tony and I had our picture taken too.  We all tasted rum cake at a store and then took the bus to the Crystal/Fantasy caves.  We toured the Fantasy caves ($15pp), which was quite interesting.  For our reward of going up/down 88 steps each way, we had drinks and nachos at the Swizzle Inn. Everything tasted great.  The pitcher of Rum Swizzle was $22 and pretty strong. It started to rain again just as we finished our food.  It lasted just a few minutes. 
 
We caught the bus back to St. George and window shopped.  I wanted to buy a few water color prints, but didn’t see anything close to the ones I saw at the shop at the Fantasy caves.  I should have remembered my motto, “If you see something and like it, buy it!”  They were much nicer than the ones I saw in St. George.  At the time, I didn’t realize there were several local artists doing the same kind of art work. 
 
It rained again!  Time to get back on the ship. 
 
Back on the ship and before dinner, we had drinks in the Michael’s bar. This was a very nice bar.  Gabriel, from Romania, made my cosmopolitans.
 
Another delicious dinner.  I had the salmon, while Tony had the rack of veal.  After dinner we attended The 60’s Show.  It was pretty good.  It lasted about an hour and the singers/dancer sung various tunes from the 60s. 
 
Thursday October 12th St. George
 
This was our last day in Bermuda.  Since it was an overcast morning, Tony and I decided to skip the beach. This helped us from having to carry bags, towels, and beach mats.  We spent the morning visiting the Unfinished church, walked back to Tobacco Bay and to Fort St. Catherine.  We circled back and probably walked 2.5 miles total.  The Fortress was interesting and included replica British Crown Jewels.  
 
Back in town in King’s square, we window shopped and I finally decided to buy three small water color prints.  Tony picked up a couple of nice shirts for only $10 each.  Everything else was pretty expensive.  I looked at some jewelry but didn’t see anything that I liked.  After tasting the Rum Swizzle drink the other day, I wanted to buy some Gosling’s black rum. We headed to the liquor store where we were told we couldn’t buy any duty free liquor.  We were told we had to purchase the liquor before 10am.  We didn’t know that.  If it was in the Celebrity Today I didn’t read it.  However, we were able to buy it on board the ship at a better price than in town.
 
Celebrity hosted an Oktoberfest in the Fleet bar.  The food wasn’t that great and it wasn’t all German food!  I expected to see knockwurst and Wiener schnitzel.   The potato salad was NOT German potato salad.  Tony said the hotdogs were very good.  I should have had lunch at the buffet area.  I did win a Celebrity tote bag during the contest that was held. They were all questions about Oktoberfest.   
 
Our ship left port at 3pm, so I wanted to be on a lower deck to take pictures. We hung out on the deck with the lifeboats.  The afternoon started to clear up.  Too bad we didn’t have perfect weather, but it was still a nice visit to Bermuda. As we passed through the cut, we saw several people on the shore waving to everyone goodbye.
 
That evening was our second formal night.  Tony and I never did get to have any formal pictures taken.  We attended the Captain’s club cocktail party with Mike and Maureen, as well as Nick and Diane, who we met at the Martini tasting. Drinks were definitely flowing at this cocktail party!  This time there was a larger list of drinks to choose from, rather than the usual wine and champagne, including Mai Tai’s and Martini’s.  I ordered a Mai Tai and 15 minutes later the waiter still hadn’t returned with one.  In the meantime I ordered one from another waiter, who promptly served it to me.  About 10 minutes later, the original waiter came up to me and apologized for not bringing my drink.  He had been bumped by another person and his tray spilled all over him.  I had heard the crash and looked over.  He had left and changed his shirt.  I thought it was very nice he remembered my order and came to tell me what happened.  I told him I understood and that I was taken care of.
 
My dinner was delicious (yes, every night was delicious – Celebrity did not disappointment me one bit with their food on this cruise):  Chicken Terrine, Caesar salad, and Prime Rib!  The baked Alaska was served after all the waiters paraded through the dining room.  The midnight buffet was soon after.  I took a bunch of photos of the displays of food, which were beautifully displayed. Tony originally wanted to have some food but he was still full from dinner, so we headed to bed. 
 
Friday October 13th  Day at Sea
 
Saturday was a relaxing day.  We gained back the hour we lost the previous night, so we slept in.  It was a day of packing, reading, and just hanging out on the ship.  I sat out in the sun for an hour, and then headed in for lunch while Tony read his book in the library.  By the time I finished eating, the clouds rolls in and the temperature dropped. I walked around the ship visiting the various areas.  Back in the cabin I showered and packed my suitcase.  It was much easier and faster to pack – just dump in suitcases.
 
We had one last round of sushi and drinks (at Michaels’) before dinner: Beef tenderloin.  A few nights before we asked the assistant maitre’d if we could have escargot and Crème Brule for our last night. He did for us.  It was a great beginning and ending to our meal.  We passed our tips to the waiter (Yusuf from Turkey), assistant waiter (Carlos from Honduras, I think), and assistant maidre’d (didn’t get his name).  They all did a great job. 
 
Back in the room we finished our packing and went to bed.
 
Saturday October 14th  Home again
 
Our original time to disembark was at 10:20am; however, since we were traveling with Vicki and two older women who needed wheelchair assistance, we made plans to meet them at the Casino at 9:30am…with all the people in wheelchairs.  After breakfast in the dining room, I headed to the Fleet bar to say goodbye to Mike, Maureen, Shaun and Melonee. I also ran into a few other cruise critic friends too.  It took a while to get the wheelchair folks off the ship, but overall the debarkation went very smoothly. Celebrity should have blocked one set of elevators for just the wheeled chaired people.  By the time we got to the luggage area (we were in the lavender section) there were only about 8-10 pieces sitting, so it was very easy to spot ours.  This was a nice change after being on our Princess cruise and having to go through thousands of pieces of luggage! 
 
Again, our limo service got a car where I had to squeeze in the front.  We certainly won’t use their services again…unless it’s for 4 people or less.  Back at the Fairfield Inn, we put our luggage in our cars and headed home. It took 4 hours to get home, after stopping to pick up Lucy. She was so excited to see us and she was ready to go home. 
 
Cruise Summary:
 
This was a wonderful cruise and I loved sailing with Celebrity. Tony loved it too except for the noisy pool atmosphere with all the games and the cheesy anniversary party.  We both thought the food was exceptional, as well as the service on board.
 
The Zenith does show her age but is still in very good condition.  I did like the smaller ship feel, and especially enjoyed seeing friends again and again while on board.  That’s hard to do on a large ship. Tony also likes the smaller ships.  I hope when they retire the Zenith, they’ll replace her with a same size ship.  
 
Tony and I certainly got our exercise while on board. Every morning we would walk from deck 4 to 11 for breakfast (126 steps). We used the elevator only two times. 
 
Our next cruise will be on the Galaxy and we’ll be heading to the Mediterranean and Black sea for 14 nights (plus 3 pre-cruise nights in Rome).  I’m looking forward to sailing with Celebrity again!
 
Other Comments:
 
Luggage:
 
I found out that one woman never got her luggage!  She told me Celebrity was giving her $200 to buy clothes on board.  I recommend that anyone traveling (whether it’s a cruise or land based tour) split all clothing into two suite cases, one of which should be a carry-on.  This way, you’ll have half of your clothing.  I did this on my Baltic cruise.  I divided all casual to formal clothing between both suitcases, down to the shoes.  If I lost one bag, I would have been fine and probably would have used the laundry services on board.  Even though our room was not ready until 1pm, we were able to bring our luggage on board and place them directly in our room. 
 
Passengers: 
 
I would say the average age on board this cruise ranged from the 40’s to 60’s, along with the elderly.  There were also children, who were well behaved and seemed to have a great time too. 
 
Food and Drink:
 
I thought the food was better than on my other Celebrity cruises.  I always order the filet mignon and prime rib cooked rare and that’s how I got them.  I wonder if the food was better because the chefs and cooks dealt with 1300 passengers rather than 1900 like on the Millennium and Constellation.  I loved their cream soups but didn’t have them every night.  Everything was well presented but not too fancy.
 
The nice thing about Celebrity is that you can order other items that are not on the menu, such as steak, salmon, and chicken; shrimp cocktail and Caesar salad.  In addition, you can pre-order an item, like we did with the Crème Brule and escargot.
 
Sushi – There was a variety of sushi, including salmon (my favorite!), tuna, tilapia, eel, shrimp, as well as rolled sushi: spicy tuna and California roll.  In addition, there was a miso soup bar, where various items could be added to the soup.  I didn’t have the soup since I just wanted the sushi as an appetizer before dinner.
 
There’s also:
 
- Pizza and pasta station
- Burgers and dogs, as well as other sandwiches
- Mini-sandwiches and cookies around 4pm
- Pastries in the Cova Café
 
Drinks – we enjoyed some of the Drink of the Day specials, including the Mai Tai’s (I had to ask for a float of dark rum to make it authentic), Cosmopolitans, and Sea breezes.
 
Casino and Cigarette smoke:
 
We played the slot machines and lost our $10.  We’re not gamblers but know others did win $200-$300.  The casino is small and we didn’t like the fact it was filled with cigarette smoke.  Even walking through the Rendezvous lounge was not pleasant.  Smokers hung out on one side of the room. 
 
Money in Bermuda: 
 
We were lucky that Bermuda accepts USD.  We didn’t have to exchange any money and the value of the USD was the same as the local currency.  Master card and Visa were widely accepted. 
 
Photos:
 
We didn’t purchase any photos on board.  They were expensive.  It always amazes me that these cruise companies charge so much when I see so many thrown away.  I’m sure if they were to lower their prices, more people would purchase them.  I would. It’s all done via digital camera and the development, I’m sure, is cheap
 
Web sites used:
 
http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=273381 The Cruise Critic Zenith Thread
http://bermuda-online.org/
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/bermuda/
http://www.10best.com/Bermuda/index.html
http://www.bermudatravelnet.com/
http://cruisetip.tpkeller.com/ Cruise tip calculator
 
Expenses:
Cruise                          $1,746.64
Hotel                            $     40.25
Transportation             $     96.25
Food and drink            $   345.19
Sights                          $     30.00
Shopping                     $   129.25
Total:                           $2,387.58
 
Monica J. Pileggi
 
 

Celebrity Silhouette Adriatic Cruise (Oct/Nov 2013) Journal

Celebrity Silhouette, Adriatic Cruise, 31 October – 13 November 2013
 
Warning, my journals tend to be verylong….
 
Tony and I (along with our friends Carol and Glenn) returned from a wonderful, port-intensive cruise on the Silhouette. It was an Adriatic cruise, Venice to Rome, with the following ports: Koper, Slovenia; Ravenna, Italy; Split, Croatia; Dubrovnik, Croatia; Kotor, Montenegro; Bari, Italy; Corfu, Greece;A Day at Sea; Valletta, Malta, Catania, Sicily,and Naples, Italy.


This was my second time on the Silhouette and 10th Celebrity Cruise; Tony’s 5th with Celebrity. We’ve always enjoyed the staff, service, and food on board the ship and the S-class ships are our favorite.
 
Our roll call was pretty active, although not as active as my past transatlantic cruises. I met several people on the ship, which I know we have now become long-lasting friends. I booked one private tour with a fellow cruiser, Barb, and decided the rest of the ports would be on our own. Having only one day at sea, I didn’t want to be exhausted at the end of each day.
 
Three Nights Venice Pre-Cruise:
 
27-28 October 2013, Sunday/Monday
 
Tony flew stand-by on Usairways (his company) from Philadelphia directly to Venice, while Carol, Glenn, and I flew on United Airlines from Dulles. We had to change planes in Frankfurt.  When we were at Dulles having drinks and waiting for our flight, I was on Facebook and found out two friends of mine would arrive into Frankfurt about the same time. It was a treat tosee them; they were on their honeymoon and planned a few days in Rome before boarding going on the Reflection for their transatlantic cruise. We talked for about 15 minutes at my gate.
 
We met Tony in Venice and after gathering our luggage, walked to the Alilaguna boat dock(14 euros, tickets purchased in advance) and caught the 11:51am boat to Venice. It was about an hour ride into Venice. It wasn’t the most perfect day but very exciting to be returning to Venice. Going by boat is the only way to arrive, IMHO.
 
Our hotel for three nights was at Hotel Al Ponte Mocenigo (room #21 in the annex building), which has high ratings on trip advisor, as well as recommended to me by a friend. Excellent location very close to the San Stae stop down a tiny alley on the left. There were no bridges to cross with our luggage. Lovely Venetian style furniture and décor, queen bed, small shower, tiled floors and walls, wifi, breakfast in the little courtyard. Both Walter and Sandro were lovely hosts, who helped with dinner reservations and good conversation. The staff that served breakfast were all friendly and cheerful.
(My review on Trip Advisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187870-d558796-r184890444-Hotel_Al_Ponte_Mocenigo-Venice_Veneto.html).
 
In our three days we covered a lot of ground. It was Carol and Glenn’s first visit to Venice, so our first day was just walking around much of the area to show the Venice that I love.
 
We had lunch at Muro San Stae, located in a small campo near the hotel. We were lucky to get the last outdoor table. Three of us had pizza (Carol had a large bowl of soup) - I had one of the specials: the Alba, which consisted of tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham, porcini mushroom and truffle oil (13€). Tony had one with eggplant (9€).  The guys had beer while Carol and I shared a 1/2 liter of white wine. It was a nice lunch to start our trip.


The Rialto market was closed by the time we got there, which is always a sight to see. The Rialto Bridge was packed with tourists checking out the Grand Canal views. The only time you can really enjoy the bridge is at night when the crowds are gone.
 
Winding our way around Venice, we window shopped and ended up in Piazza San Marco. It was great to finally see the clock tower out from under scaffolding but now the Basilica had scaffolding!
 
Later in the afternoon, we shared a bottle of wine at Trattoria da Giorgio ai Greci. It’s located next to a small canal, which was lovely.
 
I didn’t make any dinner reservations but we were able to get a table at Al Ponte Megio, located just a few minutes from the hotel. No outside tables were available and I think we got the last one inside. Service was slow at the beginning but we weren't in a rush. I had the lasagna and a side salad for dinner, while Tony had the pasta Bolognese. Carol and I shared some wine (this was SOP on the trip). Everything was delicious. When we got our bill, my lasagna was not listed, so I told Silvia, our waitress. She was so very appreciative of my honesty that she kept thanking me and then offered us complimentary lemoncello. Dinner for Tony and me was 32.50€.

After our dinner and some time walking around, I stopped for a minute atOsteria Mocenigo da Guido e Luca to make reservations for the next night at 8pm. This restaurant was just a block from our hotel.
 
29 October 2013:
 
Breakfast at the hotel had the typical continental items: fruit, pastries, breads, yogurt, cheese, cereal, coffee, tea.  Breakfast is served both inside and outside, which was covered in case of rain.
 
Tony and I spent the better part of the day in the Canneregio area. We crossed over the bridge near the train station and walked down Strada Nova. At one campo, we sat to people watch. Young school kids were taking surveys and interviewed both Tony and me: Where are you from, what’s your favorite food, favorite color, what’s your favorite sport,and so on. The kids scrambled around to get the most surveys done. They were cute.
 
We walked north to the Ghetto (such a peaceful campo) and residential area. No crowds in this area, just residents coming and going. Men sat outside at the bars having their drink and talking the day away.
 
It was an overcast day and the rain began when I was inside the Madonna dell’Orto church. This church had some incredible Tintoretto paintings. Entry fee was a couple of€.
 
Our late lunch at Alla Vedova was very good, although a little pricey for the portions. We shared a seafood appetizer; linguini with clams for Tony and Bucatini Amatriciana for me.
 
Dinner at Osteria Mocenigo da Guido e Luca. Tony and I each ordered the seafood pasta, mine with a red sauce; his with a "white" sauce (12€ each). House wine by the 1/2 liter was just 8€ and quite decent for local wine. I typically ordered the Pinot Grigio since it’s a wine of the Veneto region. Dinner for the two of us was 36€, a good price in expensive Venice.
 
At one point at dinner, Bob, a fellow cruiser, walked in. He had peeked inside and saw me. He and his wife Cheryl had arrived a little earlier and he was out for a walk.
 
After dinner, we took a bunch of night shots of various areas, including the Rialto Bridge. I had Tony bring my tripod in his suitcase. I was glad to have it although I didn’t use it the entire trip. Next year I’ll just bring my Joby focus tripod.
 
30 October 2013:
 
I slept in a little andhad a late breakfast. Ran into a few cruise friends and chatted at breakfast. The ladies that brought our breakfast were very friendly and interacted with everyone.  I had Walter make our dinner reservations for 7:30pm.
 
Tony and I made our way up to the Fondamenta Nuovo to take the boat to Burano (purchased the 24-hour vaporetto pass), the colorful lace-making island. It was a sunny day and it was just wonderful to wander the back streets away from the main street, which is always busy with people. It’s one of my favorite places in Venice. A photographer’s paradise! I wanted to stay for the sunset to take pictures but knew we needed to be back to have dinner with our friends.
 
Not wanting a large lunch since it was in the afternoon, we just sat at Laguna Bar and ordered some sandwiches (one with ham and cheese and the other with the same and grilled vegetables). With a beer and a glass of wine and our sandwiches, lunch came to 13.50€. It was a satisfying lunch while sitting outside watching all the other tourists walking around.
 
I purchased a small bottle of lemoncello for us to enjoy at the hotel. The place I bought it from on Burano had some of the best pricing.
 
We ended up taking the ‘long’ way home by taking a different vaporetto, stopping at San Marco and transferring to the #1 back to San Stae.
 
We relaxed in the room with Carol and Glenn and had some drinks before dinner.
 
It was a pleasant ride on the vaporetto to the Academia bridge stop, where we walked to Taverna San Trovaso for dinner. I've been here several times now and always find it to be a reliable place to dine. Except for two tables, including ours, with “reserved’ signs, the place was full. There’s a mix of tourists and Italian, probably mostly tourists, but I’ve always enjoyed this place. Service is friendly too.

For an appetizer, the four of us shared a large plate of Prosciutto crudo. Yum! I ordered one of the dinner specials, Mezzelune ai Porcini ed Olio Tartufato (ravioli with wild mushrooms and truffle oil). Oh my!!! Fabulous! I love anything with truffles. Tony had the Ossobuco alla cacciatora (veal shank with mushrooms and polenta). Also excellent.I don’t remember what Carol and Glenn ate but they liked their meal. We shared two liters of wine (9€ each) and later I had a large glass of vin santo, or something similar to that. Dinner for four for one appetizer, four entrees, wine, etc., came to 101€.Service by Elton (from Serbia I think) was quite the flirt, friendly, and efficient.

Dorsoduro is one of my favorite areas in Venice. It’s not as crowded as the San Marco area. We walked along the Zattere and took more pictures before taking the vaporetto back to the hotel.
 
31 October 2013, Boarding the Silhouette& overnight in Venice:
 
I wanted to sleep in so we skipped breakfast. We packed our bags, made a quick run to get some wine at a sfuso shop (bring your own empty literbottle(s) or buy from the store) to bring on the ship. There’s one not too far from the hotel next to Ponte del Parrucchetta, #1562A, near San Giacomo dell’Orio and next to Pizzerie Ae Oche. The Pinot Grigio goes for 2.20 euros for 1.5 liters. There were other wines to select, also very inexpensive.
 
We checked out of the hotel, took the vaporetto to the Piazzale Roma, got more€ from the ATM; walked over to the people mover (just 1€; there’s an escalator and elevator) and then walked to the port terminal.
 
When getting off the people mover, it’s about a 6-7 minute walk. Had there been a “B” line, it would have been shorter, but we had to skirt around the parking lot. When you arrive, the terminal building is on the left, but across the street on the right is where you drop off your luggage. The signs could have been better posted, but we managed. Plus there was one woman directing people but she wasn’t standing in the right area.
 
Check in was quick and within about 15 minutes we were on board the Silhouette with a glass of sparkling wine in hand.
 
We had cabin 1546 (Carol and Glenn in 1544). These two cabins are located on the starboard side of the ship, forward, and right under the beauty salon. Right outside the doors were the elevators and stairs. Not once did we hear people coming/going in the area, and no noise from above. It was a great location near the spa, which we enjoyed the Persian Gardens, but a good walking distance to the aft of the ship.
 
Our cabin attendant (Venty) and his assistant were wonderful, polite, and attentive. Anytime I needed anything (although it was rare), they were prompt to respond.
 
The rest of the day was spent on the ship having lunch at the ocean view café, exploring the ship, unpacking, watching the beautiful sunset, and having dinner in Blu. Fernando was the maître ‘D and Anita the assistant. Both were very friendly and attentive. Demar was our waiter – he was our waiter last year. For dinner I had the filet mignon. CC friends Judy and Bob joined us and we had a great time.
 
In the Celebrity Central the evening entertainment was a Halloween dance party, along with a costume contest. A couple dressed as hippies won. I danced with one Celebrity dancer, who wore a beautiful Venetian mask.
 
1 November 2013, Friday:
 
Carol and I spent the day doing some shopping and sightseeing, while the guys headed to the naval museum (when they got there, they discovered it was closed). I bought a couple of pretty Murano glass necklaces.
 
Carol and I wanted to go to the top of the Campanile and we were near the Frari church. So that we didn’t have to spend a lot of time walking we took one of the traghetto across the Grand Canal – our cheapo/fun gondola ride. You can read the article I wrote about our ride: http://www.italiannotebook.com/local-interest/gondola-traghetto-venice/
 
Once we got to San Marco we saw the very long line for the Campanile. We didn’t want to cut our shopping time,nor risk getting back to the ship late, so we skipped going to the top of the tower.
 
In our cabin was an invitation to go onto the helipad during the sail-away at 5pm. What a treat! Unfortunately we missed out on meeting our fellow CCr’s at the sunset bar, but we couldn’t pass up this special sail-away from Venice. Up on the helipad, servers passed out sparkling wine and we chatted with a few of the officers. Too bad about the timing of the sail-away (or maybe I should say, wrong time of year) but as we left the port the sun disappeared. We could still the buildings of Venice, but I wish the sun was still out.
 
Dinner: A lobster appetizer and short ribs.
 
2 November 2013, Saturday, Koper Slovenia
 
We woke to a very rainy day in Koper. After breakfast, Tony and I got off the ship but it was just miserable. Tony wasn’t enthusiastic to be walking in the rain so stayed on the ship while I explored the town.
 
I spent about 2 hours wandering the small streets of Koper (sometimes it stopped raining), visited the outdoor/indoor market, and then caught the local bus (12:20pm) to the lovely port town of Piran.
 
I met Tom and Dottie on the bus (also on the ship) and we chatted and would later run into each other in Piran.
 
Up high on the hill is a fortress. Half way up is a church. I visited the church for a small fee. I was the only one inside. Too bad, as I thought it was worth the 1€.  From this height, there were great views of the red tiled rooftops,the town center, and the port with its many boats. It had stopped raining by the time I got to Piran, although the sun struggled to come out from behind the clouds, so I enjoyed my time there.
 
Near the bus station was a small pastry/bread shop, so I grabbed a light snack as my lunch before boarding the bus to go back to Koper.
 
In Koper I climbed the town’s tower. Tom went too, but he was a lot faster than me. I took my time. I ran into Glenn who was coming down while Carol was still up top enjoying the views. She stayed with me while Glenn headed back to the ship.
 
Dinner: Rack of lamb, one of my favorites! Later we hung out at the martini bar where Alin and Peter served us tasty martinis.
 
3 November 2013, Ravenna Italy
 
I visited Ravenna back in 2006 so I kept this port as a “sea day”. We enjoyed the fact that most passengers were out touring so the ship was nice and quiet. Tony and I enjoyed breakfast, sat pool side for a while, and lounged the Persian gardens and soaked in the outdoor hot tub. Ah, life is good.
 
Another great dinner in Blu (beef carpaccio, crab appetizer, seafood stew) followed by drinks at the martini bar with friends Andrew, Ed, Joel, and Marjorie.
 
4 November 2014, Monday, Split Croatia
 
This was one of two ports where we had to tender. We received priority tender cards in our cabin the night before. This is one Captain’s club perk we really appreciated. After breakfast in Blu (and our only time in Blu for breakfast), we went to deck 2 and walked right onto a tender without waiting.
 
The water was a little rough, to which I said, “Finally I feel like I’m on a ship.”  I think one person actually got sea sick.Good thing we didn’t sit up top, as the waves splashed high.
 
The tender drops you right at town, so no long walk to any major sights. Behind the beautiful boulevard is Diocletian’s Palace. You can see some of the ancient walls behind the shops and restaurants.
 
We first headed to Trogir by local bus, which is a beautiful port town. It took about 45 minutes to get there. (The bus station is located to the right of where you’re dropped off from the tender – just follow the road and you’ll see lots of buses parked).
 
Trogir is a charming town with lots of small, quaint streets. Very picturesque.  It’s small enough to visit in a couple of hours. Across the bus station was an outdoor market. We saw all kinds of foods and clothing items. There was also a food stand that served pizzas and other bread-type sandwiches. We found a place to park ourselves for a bit, had drinks, and ate a light lunch.
 
Back in Split, we toured around Diocletian’s palace. The place was huge! I loved the high ceilings and archways. Carol and I climbed the tower. Oh my, that was one scary tower! There’s even a warning sign to go in at your own risk. Why? The stairs cling to the walls and the middle is just an open area. It warned people who had vertigo. I was very uncomfortable but I didn’t want to turn back. The views are incredible from the top and worth going up the tower. Carol even took a photo of me hugging a pillar at the top. It just felt unsafe, as it felt so open to me.
 
I visited inside the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, which is located next to the tower. I found the whole palace quite interesting. Both Trogir and Split were beautiful cities. I would definitely like to spend more time in Croatia.
 
The tender ride wasn’t as rough as the morning so we snagged seats up top. We didn’t get wet except for one small spray of water. The sun was going down just as we got back to the ship.
 
5 November 2013, Tuesday Dubrovnik Croatia
 
It was an overcast and rainy day, so we didn’t rush to dive into Dubrovnik. My original plans were to do a small taxi to the top of the mountain for the wonderful views of the city, but it was clouded in and therefore, not worth the drive. So we just got a taxi to the town gate for 10€.
 
This town was packed with people!! Once inside the town walls, we walked down the main street, did some window shopping (I saw a pretty vase that I would later purchase), visited the war memorial and two churches, and then headed away from the crowds.
 
It rained lightly as we wandered the small streets. Up in one area, we had great ocean views  - the water was quite rough.
 
I wanted to dine at Lokanda Peskarija but I couldn’t find the restaurant. My map didn’t have the street name listed. I stopped in a shop and asked a woman if she knew the place. My map wasn’t detailed enough so she gave me one of hers, marking the location of the restaurant and stating it was just 5-minutes away. In fact, we had passed the area 10 minutes earlier. Since we were hungry I asked if any of the restaurants in the area were any good, to which she replied with a sharp “No! I would be lying. Go to Lokanda Peskarija.” So we did.
As we got to the place, the rain came down in buckets!! Luckily there were large umbrellas keeping everyone dry…mostly. Where the umbrellas met at the edges, the rain dripped through. Our waiter took care of us and moved us to better table after some guests left.

This restaurant is located next to the old port just outside the walls, with wonderful views of the harbor and mountains. There were a dozen tables outside and a small restaurant inside.

The menu is limited but with some very good seafood choices. Tony and I started with the octopus salad. Delicious! We do love octopus. I ordered the seafood risotto, which came with shrimp, squid, and mussels. It was almost soupy but by the time I was half through with my meal (with three others digging in to try it) the risotto had finished soaking up the rest of the flavorsome broth. Tony and Glenn shared a huge pot of fried calamari, battered lightly, not greasy, and very tender. Carol ordered the grilled squid. With some delicious local bread, we sopped up the juices from our cast iron pots (especially Carol’s with the garlic and olive oil) until every last drop was gone. I couldn’t finish the rest of my risotto even though I wanted more.The house wine was fine and the guys enjoyed their beers.We felt this was one of the best meals we had while on our cruise. Great food, good service, wonderful views, very reasonable prices, and good friendship.
 
After lunch we did a little shopping and spent the rest of our Kunas. I bought a pretty vase.
 
Another taxi ride back to the ship and back on board.
 
Dinner: OMG! You should have seen the lamb shank I got for my meal. It was huge!! I was actually upset that the kitchen would prepare such a large portion for one person, especially in Blu. Once I was done eating, it looked like I didn’t put a dent in it. No doggie bag and the refrigerator in the cabin wouldn’t have kept it cold enough. I should have said to store it and make me a sandwich for the next day!
 
6 November 2013, Wednesday Kotor Montenegro:
 
I had read on the CC boards and by fellow cruisers to not miss the sail-in for Kotor. It would take approximately 2 hours from the Adriatic Sea to docking. Knowing the time of the sunrise, I got up for the last hour. It was lightly raining, but everyone on deck didn’t seem to mind. The morning was cloudy and lightly raining. Surrounding the ship were fjord-like mountainsand dotted with small villages on along the shoreline. It was beautiful and worth getting up early. I wondered what the locals thought of the huge Silhouette quietly entering the harbor. I’m sure in their eyes the ship stuck out like a sore thumb. It was so quiet as we came in.
 
As the morning progressed the sun came out and for the rest of the day we enjoyed blue skies and warm weather. The entire area was just stunning.
 
This was our second port that we had to tender. There were even local tenders, so that made for a faster debarkation of passengers.
 
The old town of Kotor is walled in and a delight to walk around. My one goal for this port was to hike up to the church located half way up the side of the mountain (just a few€ per person to go up). We all took our time going up, stopping now and then to catch our breath and take in the views. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous!! Lots of photo ops with the town below, the ship in the middle of the inlet, mountains all around, and beautiful blue skies.Carol and I went up a little further from the church (while Tony and Glenn took a break) so we could take pictures with the church.
 
Back down in town, we made the mistake of not taking the time to find the right restaurant for lunch. We passed one that had pizza made in a wood burning oven and ended up eating lousy pizza at Rendez-Vous. Oh well, the wine was good and we were glad to sit for a while after our hike.
 
I think this was one of our best days on the cruise and our favorite port. We just loved Kotor, our hike, and the beautiful scenery.
 
Judy and Bob joined us again in Blu for dinner. I enjoyed the tuna tartar and filet mignon.
 
7 November 2013, Thursday, Bari, Italy

Cruise critic friend Barb organized a tour for 13 of us to visit Alberobello, famous for the Trulli homes, and the seaside town of Polignano a Mare. Our guide, an American from Georgia or one of the southern states, gave us some information about the area and towns. She’s new to guiding but was fine.
 
Alberbello is a beautiful town, and quite touristy. There were probably two Celebrity cruise tour buses but everyone seemed spread out enough to not feel crowded. Our guide took us around, even to a shop that gave us samples of treats and locally made liquors. Tony bought a bottle to bring home (that disappeared quickly).
 
We also visited inside a church. Quite different from other European churches, as well as visited a home that people can rent out. Later, Tony and I wandered off to some side streets, which was great. Quiet, no one around, and just charming. In the center of town was a market but it was mostly clothing, shoes, and kitchen/garden gadgets.
 
Polignano a Mare is a beautiful seaside town. The town is perched a cliff overlooking the blue sea. There are caves below. This town is home to Domenico Modugno, who sung “Volare”. You can see a bronze statue of him with open arms. In fact we had a group photo with some of us posing the same way.
 
Our guide had a specific place in mind but it was closed, so we walked around and ended up at Ristorante Pizzeria Neuro. I think we had arrived when the place was beginning to close for the afternoon.Service was very slow, which didn't make sense because the place wasn't crowded at all. Two couples left after waiting to have a waiter take their order.

Tony and I ordered spaghetti with clams but got gnocchi with clams. A slight mix up but we finally got our lunch. It was very good but a small portion. Our two dishes didn't have consistency. I had more clams in my dish than Tony’s dish. We wanted some bread but our guide she said, "In this region no one eats bread with pasta." Okay, that may be true but we wanted to sop up the delicious, garlicky sauce.

The group split up and we walked around town for a bit. Lots of pretty narrow streets, archways, and quiet corners. Later we enjoyed some gelato at the Millennium Cafébefore getting back into the van to return to Bari.
 
While we had time left to walk around Bari, all of us were ready to get back on the ship.
 
Tony and I received an invitation in our cabin to dine at the captain's table for Saturday with the hotel director; Carol and Glenn too.
 
8 November, FridayCorfu, Greece
 
After breakfast, the four of us took the local bus into town. It was a beautiful day in Corfu. I had debated about renting a car for the day but decided to just stay in town.  I do recommend to those that go to Corfu to get out of town and see the countryside. The town was nice, but crowded, and not one of our most favorite ports.
 
We went to the old fortress with great city views; and we walked all around town window shopping and visiting a few churches. There was also a great outdoor market filled with all sorts of seafood, fish, vegetables, etc.
 
We headed away from the center of town and found a small restaurant where we dined outsideunder large umbrellas (Name of the place in Greek: TABEPNA ΨΗΣTAPIA). Great lunch!We shared a soft cheese appetizer that came with some crusty bread. I had a pork souvlakia dish with fries and a salad along with some inexpensive house white wine. The place had free wifi too.
 
One local food product that was sold everywhere was candied kumquats. I picked up a small container of them to bring back home.
 
There was another beautiful sunset as we left the port; and more photo ops on deck. I went to the elite happy hour at the sky lounge, while Tony napped before dinner.
 
Tony and I dined at Murano’s, a thank-you gift from our friends Judy and Bob. Murano’s is my favorite specialty dining restaurant. Service is always top notch, as well as the food. My dinner: Diver scallop Wellington style, heirloom tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, Murano lobster prepared table side (OMG!! that was fabulous!), and Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. Tony had the wild forest mushroom cappuccino soup, diver scallop, grilled milk-fed veal chop, and the same dessert. We were offered the cheese plate, but we were stuffed.
 
Later we met up with Carol and Glenn at the martini bar. Love those bartenders!
 
9 November, Saturday, At Sea
 
Today was our only day at sea on this cruise. We slept in a little, had breakfast, listened to the captain at his lecture (he’s so hilarious!! – even better than some of the on board entertainment), went to the captain’s club celebration, and spent time in the outdoor hot tub and swimming pool.
 
This evening was the last formal night and our dinner at the captain’s table. We started by meeting some cruise friends at the martini bar for a drink; then met the captain’s table group in the cellar masters bar at 8:20pm. Donna, the captain’s club hostess, introduced everyone (a nice mix of people) and we had a round of drinks. Christophe, the hotel director and host for the evening, arrived and we went to the main dining room for dinner.
 
The food was very good (excellent rack of lamb and of course, baked Alaska for dessert). What a wonderful night.
 
10 November, Sunday, Valletta, Malta
 
For anyone sailing into Valletta, it’s an absolute *must* to be up on deck. The sun was just coming up giving the old city a warm look. This was one port I was really looking forward to visiting. It has such a rich history. Unfortunately, being a Sunday, we could not visit inside St. John’s Cathedral, which I had read was most spectacular inside.
 
The four of us hired a taxi for the day. We went to Mdina, which was about a 20 minute drive. Mdina, a walled-in town, sits on a hill where you have views of much of the island. We walked through the main gate and spent about an hour wandering the small streets. There were wrought iron balconies, potted bougainvillea, and quite corners.
After visiting inside a church, I purchased a glass vase. There were a few glass shops. I even picked up a glass pendant that was of the Malta cross.
 
Tony wanted to visit the aviation museum nearby, so that was our next stop. It was pretty small but with some interesting aircraft, engines, and photographs.
 
Our driver stopped at the Blue Grotto (top side). He thought we’d like to go for a ride to the grotto but there were too many people waiting for a boat and that would have taken up too much of our day; so we just opted for a few photo ops from above.
 
We had a short visit to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, which was a little disappointing. In addition to a few fish stalls, there were tons of stalls selling clothing, shoes, household items, etc.  I was hoping to buy a snack (such as fried calamari or shrimp) but no luck. The place was packed with people.
 
At least the views of the colorful boats, harbor, and other section of town in the background were worth the visit for the photo ops.
 
Back in Valletta, we paid our driver and found a place for lunch -La Pira. I ordered a typical Maltese sampler platter, which came with olives, a local pungent cheese with balsamic vinegar drizzled on top, sundried tomatoes, a bruschetta, and other tasty treats. 
 
Tony went back to the ship while Carol, Glenn, and I walked around town. It’s quite hilly but a beautiful town. It was the late afternoon, so a lot of places were closed. I did buy a lovelyMaltese cross silver pendant/earring set. I wanted a set in gold but prices were too high.
 
We visited the WWII siege memorial, which sits above the harbor. More great views.
 
Getting back to the ship wasn’t fun. I had a map but what looked like a straight shot back to the ship wasn’t. I was prepared to wave down a taxi but there was no one around and not a single car drove past us. We had to back track at one point but eventually made it back to the ship.
 
Carol and I were up on deck taking pictures of the city skyline as we left port. The sun had gone down and Valletta was quite beautiful all lit up.
 
For dinner, we dined at the Tuscan Grill. Tony and I shared the fried calamari. I had wild mushroom ravioli with truffle oil (oh my, I loved it!!), arugula salad with goat cheese, filet mignon; and we all shared the lobster linguine alfredo. We would typically order pasta for the table for us to share. Our waiter also brought out an antipasti plate and assorted breads. Carol and I shared the tiramisu for dessert, although we couldn’t finish it. It was an excellent dinner. I definitely want to dine here on my next cruise, although I have not tried the lawn club grill yet.

11 November, Monday, Catania, Sicily
 
Catania is a huge port city with Mount Etna smoking in the background. It was a beautiful day but a little on the cool side.
 
My only goal for Catania was to visit the fish market in town, but we first started with a tour of the bridge. It was quite interesting.
 
Tony stayed on the shipfor the day and went to the Veterans Day, Armistice Day event. Carol, Glenn, and I walked into town. We made our way to the market after passing one large church where at least 100 men in military uniform were gathering. Not sure if it was for Veterans Day, Armistice Day and I wish I had stopped to ask.
 
From the Cathedral, head down the south-west corner of the piazza (with the Fontanadell'Elefante in the center of the piazza) to the bustling fish market. It’s lively, boisterous, and gritty, with an electric atmosphere.This is one of the biggest fish markets in Italy, and only the freshest of fish and seafood to be found. What a variety! Stand in one spot and watch the show. I watched one man clean squid, all by hand. Other fishmongers were yelling out their fish for sale. And what a messy place!  Buckets of fish everywhere, debris everywhere, and fish parts on the ground. I’m sure it gets all cleaned up at the end of the day and ready for the next day.
 
Nearby are lots of other food stalls selling cheese, raw and cured meats, vegetables, including a full spread of various antipasti, foods prepared and ready for an oven, even cavallo (horse meat). I saw a chef shopping for his restaurant. Where else would anyone shop?
 
Glenn found a store where he had purchased some local craftwork. They also had ceramics, but nothing caught my eye.
 
We continued on walking around town, passing by many churches. Time for lunch, so we picked a place that we saw, called La Collegiata. It was too chilly to sit outside. On display at the entrance was a small antipasti buffet. Carol and I had that and Glenn ordered a pizza. Each was 6€, a very good price for the antipasti. Even our ½ carafe of wine and one beer was 6€!  The food was good and filling.
 
We walked past the cathedral again and down to the main road that skirts next to the port. More vegetable food stands, including one that was grilling whole artichokes.
 
Up on deck, the afternoon was gorgeous - blue skies with snow-capped Mount Etna (mostly covered by clouds in the morning in the background.
 
Happy hour again at the sky lounge followed by some night shots of Mount Etna erupting as we left the area. (Apparently it erupted quite  bit a couple of days later).
 
Prime rib for dinner; martini bar later. Yes, our usual evening. 
 
12 November, Tuesday, Naples, Italy
 
Naples was our last port for this cruise. My goal: Walk around the Spanish quarter; walk along via Toledo and Spaccanapoli, and to eat pizza! I actually had a specific walking itinerary that I put together, which we mostly followed.
 
Everyone was out for the day. Streets were filled. Mopeds zipped by quickly down small streets. I kept my camera gear on the ship and just took my pocket camera. I didn’t even carry a bag.
 
We walked through the Galleria Umberto to via Toledo (main shopping street) and turned into the Spanish quarter. It’s Naples at its rawest. Small streets in a grid (from Greek times), clothing hanging out on balconies, mopeds parked everywhere, cars parked in some areas that you can’t even get through, shops, vegetable stands, and small trattorias.  
 
Spaccanapoli (“split Naples”) is one long street that cuts Naples in half. The street name changes at least five times. It’s a great street to walk along, as there are churches, other sites to see, cafes, etc., along the way.  I stopped and bought a ‘sfogliatella’, a Neapolitan crispy pasty that is filled with ricotta cheese. The pastry looks like thin leaves in layers. It was so good!
 
Carol and Glenn left to another area of Naples and Tony and I went to lunch. I had my list of pizza places to choose from and selected one nearby – Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali. This is a very popular pizzeria with people waiting to get in. We only had a 5-minute wait.  The entire restaurant was packed!! Tony had a beer (3.30€) and we shared a Margherita pizza, also 3.30€.The pizza was fantastic! Thin, with a crispy edge and a softer center with the right amount of red sauce. It was one of our cheapest and most satisfying lunches on our trip.When we left, the place was still packed and there must have been 28-30 people outside waiting their turn to dine in Sorbillo.
 
Tony wanted to find a place that had wifi so we walked around. We walked along Via San Gregorio Armeno, where you can see shop after shop selling nativity scene displays. A lot were made from terra cotta and others from wood. You can buy individual pieces to make your own nativity scene. These shops are open all year long.
 
The only wifi place we found was Bar Italia, close to the port. We probably sat for an hour. The wine we purchased (one small glass each) was very expensive. I made the mistake of not asking for a wine list. Oh well, our inexpensive lunch off-set the cost of our drinks. 
 
The sunset over Mount Vesuvius was beautiful with hints of pink in the sky.
 
13 November Wednesday, Civitavecchia
 
Getting off the ship, going through customs, and gathering our luggage was pretty quick. I hired romecabs.com for our van service to the airport along with some other friends. Our ride to the airport was about 50 minutes. There was no traffic so early in the morning.
 
Summary
 
I said at the beginning this was a port-intensive cruise but we had a great time. I would recommend if you book this cruise, you create some downtime. Stay on board if you’ve already been to a port. It was nice to relax on the ship when we were docked in Ravenna. Other ports we kept to easy days. We met some wonderful people on the ship, including some of the officers; and our cabin attendants, who were top notch.
 
I have two more cruises booked for 2014, both on the beautiful Silhouette, and both TA’s.
 
Monica
 

Celebrity Constellation Back-2-Back Cruise September 2019 Journal

3 September 2019 and 12 September 2019
Back-to-Back Cruise
Barcelona to Venice and back to Barcelona
 
 
Cruising Background:
 
I’ve been cruising with Celebrity since 2003 and this was my 18th/19th cruise (Tony, a few cruises less than me); and second time on the Constellation.
 
This was our first back-to-back cruise, 3 September and 12 September 2019, with our friends. It was a very port-intensive cruise with fabulous ports of call. I would love to do another one but with a couple more sea days.
 
On Board:
 
The Constellation is a smaller ship (I love the S-Class ships) and she shows her age, especially in the chairs around the various lounges, but overall the ship was in good condition
 
The Martini bar was always crowded and very noisy, especially on the first day of embarkation. The music shouldn’t be so loud that you have to yell over the noise to talk to someone.
 
We spent a lot of our happy hour time in the Reflection lounge; sometimes at the sunset bar at sail-away; and the Rendezvous lounge (depending on who was performing before dinner). The Reflection lounge was never filled. I believe there were only about 100-125 elite passengers. The first cruise seemed more low-keyed than the second cruise, which had around 200 elite passengers. The appetizers during the happy hour were very good.
 
The house band was The Cardinals. They were fantastic!! We enjoyed Kyle Tracy (guitar/vocals) and Duo Asai (Acoustic Duo). We didn’t care for the Sea Beats - terrible female singer that could put a person to sleep.
 
The Rendezvous was a popular spot for trivia and evening entertainment.
 
Cellar Masters was pretty quiet.
 
Great staff on board! Some of my favorites were John (cabin attendant); Alejandro (CD and funny as ever; had the pleasure of meeting him on our March 2019 South America cruise); Clint (hotel director first cruise), Milana (hotel director second cruise); Luana (guest relations director), Vlada (Captains club hostess on our first cruise). In the dining room: Wannipa, Dusan, and Gede at table 233; in the Reflection lounge Sushant and Sabitri.Irlinda at guest relations tried to help me with me on an issue with my cabin. Isabela (event coordinator)sent us an invitation to the helipad for our departure from Valletta.Suzanna (sommelier). And of course, the Master of the ship Michael Karatzas, Staff Captain LefterisKoumasidis, and Chief Engineer Nikolaos Politsis.
 
Cabin 3142. I booked an ocean view cabin since the back-to-back was pretty expensive, plus being port intensive, I didn’t think we would need to have a cabin with a balcony. Normally I book aqua or concierge. This cabin has an extra-large port hole. My room was VERY warm. Two engineers came by twice but couldn’t do anything to fix the problem. I ended up getting a fan for the room and kept the drapes closed all the time. The window should be better tinted to help from the heat of the sun. The fan helped a little but was still pretty warm. The a/c was running but there wasn’t enough air flow to cool the room; and the air didn’t flow downward, as there was a large square plate that blocked the air flow. Poor system design that I hope is improved when the Constellation gets a facelift.
 
John was our cabin attendant and he was attentive, friendly, and helpful. Our room was made up early. 
 
The closet hangers need to be updated. Some of the wooden hangers kept coming off their hooks.
 
Dear Celebrity Cruises, please add to your Celebrity Today a comment to all passengers asking them to be respectful of their neighbors not let their cabin doors slam shut. This was very annoying and disturbing when one is trying to sleep. I found many guests walking in or out of their cabin without attempting to close the door gently. SLAM!!  Ugh! Rude.
 
We enjoyed Silent Disco a few times on both cruises. The Captain’s Club Celebration and Senior Officer’s Parties were fun but not fully attended. It was actually nice to be able to attend an event and not feel so crowded.
 
Food on board:
 
We had Select dining and really enjoyed all of our meals in the main dining room (except for one lamb entrée). We never waited long for our table. We went to the dining room anywhere from 6:15pm to 7:30pm.
 
One night several of us went to Sushi on Five for a special Indian dinner. It was excellent with a good variety of foods. Another night Tony and I ate at the Tuscan Grill.
 
I would say the Captain’s Club Elite breakfast in the Tuscan grill is pretty slow in its service. Nothing is cooked (only breads are toasted if asked), so why does it take so long to get our food? We went to the oceanview café for most of our breakfasts. Dear Celebrity, please get rid of those awful knives. They are hard to hold!
 
The Ports:
 
We had a great time in Barcelona (three days pre-cruise). We stayed at H10 Montcada Boutique Hotel. Nice hotel, comfortable beds, and a great roof-top terrace. We visited Park Guell the first afternoon of our arrival. I finally got to visit Girona (via train). Lovely city and doable in a day. Also, we had a great lunch at Blanc (C/Nord 2, Girona) – grilled calamari with chick peas and lentils for me; Tony had fried Calamari; Carolyn and I shared a bottle of wine). On the last day we did a Gaudi walking tour and an afternoon visit to Sagrada Familia (buy tickets in advance). Also found a small restaurant nearby for tapas and drinks (Pimentos de Padron, Pulpo a la Gallega, Queso Manchego, and Chistorra; along with Beer and Sangria Vino - all for 32 euros).
 
Embarkation in Barcelona was a breeze!! We arrived about 10:45am by taxi and there were only a dozen others in the terminal!  We couldn’t believe how empty it was compared to our other cruises.
 
Our first night was the Cruise Critic Connections Party. Only a handful showed up, as it was at 8:15pm.
 
I originally booked a tour for Monte Carlo but decided to go on our own. It's a tendered port. We LOVED the oceanographic museum (https://www.visitmonaco.com/us/place/monuments-museums/76/oceanographic-museum-of-monaco)!!  We spent at least two hours there. Absolutely an aamazing place. Loved the large tank with the hundreds of jellyfish, and the clown fish. We purchased a combo ticket that included the Palace.  Had lunch at Restaurant Chez Tony (pizza and mussels with fries); visited the old town church just before it closed for the day.
 
We had a private tour for 8 people in Villefranche with Sylvie Di Cristo. We visited three hill towns (Eze, La Turbie, and Roquebrune; and photo ops of Monaco from high above).  Lunch at La Grotte & L’Olivier in Roquebrune.
 
We stayed in Civitavecchia and took a cooking class (my second time). Tons of fun. We made several dishes and enjoyed the fruits of our labor afterwards with wine, water, and some lemoncello. Too much food! Frederico is the chef and owner of Aqua Pizzeria Ristorante (aquacivitavecchia@hotmail.it; Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/federico.aqua/?tn-str=k*F). If you book it, tell Frederico I recommended his class and tell him, “Ciao from Monica!”
 
We had one sea day on this cruise. We had a 10am meeting about the procedures of our turn-around day in Venice. Lucky for us we wouldn’t have to pack our belongings since we had the same cabin. On the morning of our arrival, we just had to go to guest relations to pick up our new card. We did this around 7:30am. We wanted to be off the ship as early as possible since the departure was at 4pm. We were given a Transit Pass so that we didn’t have to go through the normal check-in process. We had to carry our original passports with us for the day. We used the old card to get off the ship; new card to get back on the ship (your photo is taken when you get back on the ship). The old card is taken away, but you can get it the next day. We were told we would need to update our credit card details for our on-board expenses but when I went a couple of days later, they didn’t need to adjust our account.
 
We were told to be back on the ship by 3:45pm. All other guests had to be back on board by 3:15pm.
 
Friends and I attended the Captain’s Club wine tasting at 11:15am. Suzanna, the sommelier, was sweet and very patient with late-comers. Several walked in 15-25 minutes after the start time, so Suzanna had to stop her lecture, set up more glasses, and begin again. When the last person strolled in, half of the guests booed and hissed.
 
At the Elegant Tea, two couples showed up in shorts and t-shirts. This was a ‘smart casual’ event, not a pool-side event.
 
In Messina, we had a private tour for 8 to Mt. Etna, a specialty food shop (Oro d’ Etna), the Gambino winery (great visit with lunch andwine tasting), and then a short visit to Castiglione di Sicilia.
 
We had a private tour in Corfu driving around the island for four of us. This was the only port where we had rain for about an hour. Beautiful island. We stopped at Paleokastritsa (beach area) and snacked on Portokalopita, a typical Greek orange filo cake drenched in an orange syrup.  (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww8tv7otHXc).
 
For lunch, Spiros, our guide, took us to a souvenir store (George’s Cellar) where he set up a simple, yet delicious lunch: Large loaves of bread, fresh-made, sliced, dipped in olive oil; and then topped with feta cheese, fresh tomatoes, and seasonings. Yum!!  The feta was soft but not salty like you get back home. He cut some of the feta into small chunks and added two different dipping sauces. More fresh bread. Olives too. Wine to go along our food and later Quince liquor. 
 
We toured the Achillion Palace Museum in the afternoon before returning to the ship.
 
In Kotor, we had a private tour for 8 people about 4.5 hours where we visited Perast, Budva, and Sv. Stefan (just views from the road). The views of Kotor from the top were spectacular! We had time back in Kotor for a mouth-watering lunch at Konoba Scala Santa before getting back on the ship.
 
In Zadar, we went on a walking tour. We were disappointed because the guide showed up 1/2 hour late. He talked too much at the beginning, so it cut into our afternoon. I didn't have time to see a couple of places and I wanted to climb the town tower.  We did see some interesting things. We had a good lunch at Porporela before the tour started.
 
In Venice, Tony stayed on the ship while I played tour guide for my friends. It has been 30 years since the last time they were in Venice, and this was probably my eight time. We walked around town exploring many side streets and checking out the pretty canals; went up the Campanile tower in St. Marks square. The lines were very long to get into Basilica. We should have purchased tickets in advance. Venice is a great place to just wander and explore the many streets and bridges. Lunch at Taverna San Trovaso, one of my favorite restaurants in town. We were lucky to get a table. Gelato for dessert at Nico’s before walking back to the people mover. Got stuck at the people mover, as the turnstiles would not open to let people through! After 15 minutes and starting to worry about not getting back to the ship in time, we crawled under them!
 
When we arrived back to the terminal, we didn’t see any Celebrity staff member and we sort of got mixed up with the terminal and which area to enter. I had to ask a local worker where to go. We finally made it back on board by 3:25pm. The boat drill was at 3:45pm.
 
Second cruise, 12 September 2019:
 
In Split, we toured on our own. I should have booked a private tour and visited another town. Tony and I were here before and saw the same things this time. It’s a shame that Diocletian’s palace is such a tourist trap with all the shops. Split is too crowded with a non-authentic feel to the place. For lunch we had traditional prawns, but it was difficult to get the meat out. Very messy too.
 
In Dubrovnik, four of us took the local bus to Cavtat, a beautiful small seaside town; small enough for a nice stroll and lunch. No crowds like in Dubrovnik. It was a relaxing day walking along the water (nice path with trees) for about an hour followed by a wonderful lunch at Posejdon Cavtat.  I made reservations a few weeks in advance and asked for a table overlooking the water. Afterwards, we took a boat back to Dubrovnik, which was about a 45-minute ride. Nice scenery of the area. We were dropped off outside the town walls where we walked around a bit and had gelato (we got rid of the rest of the local currency since we were done visiting Croatia – they have not moved to the euros yet).
 
In Catania, we had a private tour. We had a nice short visit to the fish market in town and the Cathedral. We went to Syracuse to visit the ancient ruins. We were supposed to get a guide for the site but somehow that fell through. Our guide/driver said there were plenty of signs to read. Not true. Fortunately, I had printed out a document on what we would be seeing, so that helped. Definitely get a guide if you go there.
 
Nearby, we had lunch in Ortigia, which is a small island just south of the central area of Syracuse. We requested a place for lunch that served typical/regional dishes, so our guide made reservations for us at Trattoria “la Foglia”. It’s a quirky place filled with all sorts of home/kitchen items with mis-matched plates, glasses, etc. We were treated to limoncello after our meal.
 
Our last stop of the day was to Spinella, a wonderful small pastry shop in Catania. Lucca, our guide, said they serve the best pistachio cannoli. I have to agree!! It was huge so the server cut each one in half for each couple to share.
 
In Valletta, Tony and I went out on our own and visited some of the sites in town (Palace Armoury and State Rooms at the Grand Master’s Palace). One must-see is the Saint John's Co-Cathedral. The Baroque art, architecture, and Caravaggio’s paintings are incredible! I went in alone, so I didn’t have to que in the long group line.
 
We used Palma de Mallorca as a “sea day” with the exception of a short walk for an hour near the port in the morning. It was our third visit to this port. We were docked pretty far away from the center of town, which was a shame, as I would have had lunch in town.
 
Speaking of docking, the following ports we had to buy shuttle tickets: Zadar, Dubrovnik, Palma, and Ibiza. They ranged from 10 to 15 euros. In a few ports you could take local buses. In Valencia, we were told we could get a taxi, but none were around when we got off the ship. There was a local shuttle bus to the main terminal; again no taxi’s. We took bus #4 to town, which was about a 25-minute ride. 
 
As we used Palma as a sea day, we had no problem getting deck chairs near the pool. On the sea days, they were all taken. We saw a lot of deck chairs with towels but no one sitting on them. One time I did manage to get a chair and my husband came by and sat on the end of it. Five minutes later, a man across from us offered one of the chairs next to him. He had kept a towel on it but wasn’t using it!!  Later a woman came to her chair (next to me) to collect her belongings. From the time I sat down and her arrival was about 45 minutes. As she started to walk away (leaving her towels on the chair), I grabbed her towels and politely said, “Take your towels to the bin.” Had I not said that, the towels would still be there. It made me wonder how many other people left their towels. In times when I couldn’t find a chair I ended up on deck 5 (there were only 10-12 chairs, but there should have been more).
 
Ibiza is a pretty town. We went on a walking tour for about 2.5 hours and later had lunch at Locals Only. This was a long port day, 7am to 11pm. There are a lot of shops and restaurants/bars. It’s a party town; and there are beaches in the area to enjoy.
 
Valencia: As I mentioned above, we took the bus to town. There is a metro/tram but it would have taken a lot longer. We were supposed to meet up with one of the free walking tours at 10:30am but missed it. We got off the ship about 20 minutes later than planned.
 
Valencia is beautiful and it’s a place I could see visiting for a few days. Loved the Spanish architecture. The town squares are gorgeous. Four of us climbed the Valencia Cathedral Bell tower (207 steps up a spiral staircase, which the steps get smaller about the last two floors). The views from the top are nice when you look out, but you can’t photograph straight down to the plazas, as the walls are thick. My legs were wobbly for a couple of days. That staircase was hard on my legs.
 
After lunch at Cordellats, we visited the central market in town; got there about 40 minutes before it closed (3pm). I loved the display of foods.
 
Disembarkation in Barcelona: We had one night in Barcelona before flying home. We went to Sushi on Five for our disembarkation location; got off the ship around 9am. We should have stayed on the ship longer. The taxi line was very long!! I couldn’t imagine flying home that morning. There were four ships in port, so the taxi drivers were very busy.
 
Overall, we had a great time on our first back-to-back cruise with the Celebrity Constellation. The ports were great, as well as the staff on the ship. Looking forward to another Celebrity cruise!
 
If you have any questions, I’ll be glad to answer them.
 
Monica Pileggi