Four Night Trip to Rome Italy!

Notes, post trip:

I realized a few weeks before taking this trip that I had a 4-day weekend coming up. I have every other Monday off and when a holiday (such as President’s Day) falls on my day off, the holiday gets moved to the previous Friday. Hmmm, if I take a few days of annual leave and tack it onto my 4 days, I can have a nice mini vacation – and a cheap one too if I fly standby (Tony is a pilot for USAirways).

I checked for flights out of Philadelphia to Europe on certain days and found out that most flights were booked. I checked for Rome, Madrid, and Lisbon. I can check the flight ‘loads’ to see how many empty seats there are, as well as how many non-revs are listed, and the priority of each non-rev.

On February 10th, I decided to check for flights to Rome on the 14th and home on the 19th. Wide open! There were at least 140 empty seats in coach and 11 in envoy class to Rome (USAirways first class) and about the same coming home. I requested three days of annual leave from my supervisor. “Approved!”

I spent the weekend emailing a bunch of hotels to check for winter specials, including two hotels I had stayed in previously. I ended up choosing Hotel Parlamento, not just for their price (67€/night) but for their great location. Plus I wanted to be near bus transportation and the metro, as I was planning to do a day trip to Orvieto. Hotel Parlamento is close to the Spanish steps and metro. The smaller electric buses (#116) stops two doors from the hotel in one direction and two blocks from the other direction at Largo Chigi. I’ll be returning to Hotel Parlamento in the fall. Being a repeat customer has it’s perks. Having staff remembering you is always a good feeling. It’s like coming home.

I packed very lightly for this 4-night trip: Just a carry on bag with a couple pairs of pants, two pairs of walking shoes, two light tops (long sleeve) and three sweaters so I could layer. I didn’t want to bring my warmest jacket. Weather report called for low to mid 50s for Rome. I also decided to go light with my photo equipment and brought just a pocket camera. No big DSLR and extra lenses on this trip. This would be my sixth trip to Rome and I would be heading back again in the fall.

Wednesday, 15 February 2012:

Yesterday I drove to Philadelphia and parked my car at Smart Park on 2nd Avenue near the airport. I’ve parked my car here previously. Complimentary shuttle service to the airport. I paid about $7 per day.

I wasn’t able to upgrade to envoy class on the flight. Paying passengers upgraded and took the remaining empty seats. But for $20 (each way) I certain can’t complain. I had my upgrade tickets ($100 per flight) and hoped to use one for the flight home. I asked for a row of four seats (seat 34C) so I could stretch out and try to sleep. Two of the flight attendants that worked with Tony in the past (when they were Trump Shuttle) took care of me with wine, baileys after dinner, and headsets (the ones I brought didn’t work well).
There was a large group of nuns and priests on board the flight. Apparently there was some big event to be held at the Vatican on Saturday.

A non-eventful flight and the flight landed around 8:15am. I intended to take the Leonardo express train but ended up taking a shuttle van to the Termini (15€). From there it was a short ride on the metro (1€) to the Spanish steps. While walking to my hotel, I was already snapping pictures of the Spanish steps and street scenes. It was a beautiful blue sky day with tourists all around. I was so happy to be in Rome! I can never tire of this incredible city.

I was greeted warmly by Mr. Chini (and Tiziano), who offered coffee or cappuccino, which I don’t drink, so I opted for some orange juice. My room (#90) was ready, which I was glad. Most times I have to store my luggage till around 1pm. My room is small and basic, but perfectly fine for me. Queen bed, tv on the wall, very small table next to the bed that serves as a desk and night stand, and chair. There was no view to speak of and was quiet at night. The exception were the seagulls squawking in the early morning hours.
The day was probably 45 degrees. Many people were bundled up and I saw several dogs in various styles of coats. There was still some snow on the ground and in shaded grassy areas.

I walked to the Campo de Fiori, which was still in full swing. The market is held daily and closes around 1:30pm. It’s always a lively Campo with various products and produce on sale. At one of the fruit/vegetable stands, I saw a small dog sitting on a chair all bundled up in a blanket. So cute!

After checking out the market, I was ready for lunch. I thought of walking over to Trastevere but my stomach growled at me so I found the nearest restaurant, Ostaria ar Galletto (Piazza Farnese, 102). Tony and I had dined here in 1998. I walked in and was the first customer of the day. Lunch consisted of spaghetti carbonara and a glass of red wine (total 17€). The pasta filled me up and it was good but I’ve had much better tasting carbonara. This was quite thick in texture. I did like the pancetta that was in the pasta, thick and crunchy. A few other diners showed up while I was eating. I would imagine they have larger crowds at dinner due to the location of the place. The interior was quite typical of a Roman restaurant, simple, inviting and warm. The service was good. This is a place I would return to but would definitely try something different to eat.

Walking up via di Monserrato, it turns into via dei Banchi Vecchi. From there I work my way to the main road that skirts the Tiber river. I took several photos of the area, including snow on the ground, and then crossed over to visit the Castel Sant’ Angelo. It cost 8€ to get in. There was an exhibit of Russian icon paintings (on wood panels), which was quite interesting. Up top are lovely city views all round.

I slowly made my way back Hotel Parlamento but stopped at the nearby grocery store for a bottle of wine and water. I relaxed in my room in the late day and before dinner. There’s no BBC on the tv so I flipped channels and watched Hawaii 5-0 in Italian for a few minutes. My room was pretty cold and I found out later the hotel turns on the heat two times per day. I walked out the door at 6:30pm just as the heat came on. My room would be warm when I returned.

Down 2 or 3 blocks on via del Corso, I turn left and stop to take photos of the Trevi fountain. This area is always filled with tourists tossing coins in the fountain and taking pictures. Lots of police too, as this area can be a prime target for pickpockets.

I enjoyed the Rome night life as I made my way to Hostaria Romana (via del Boccaccio, 1) for dinner. It’s located NE of the Trevi fountain and towards the Barberini metro. I dined here with friends in 2009. It’s a mixture of tourists and locals. I sat next to a young couple. I found out later that Filipo and Roberta were siblings and she was visiting for the day. He suggested a restaurant, which I jotted down. Maybe I’ll go one night.

Excellent dinner! I started with the antipasti platter after checking out the display of foods in the center of the restaurant. My antipasti included fresh mozzarella, grilled zucchini and eggplant, a delicious frittata with asparagus, beans with onions, garlic, and olive oil; a salad of mushrooms and sliced artichokes, etc. This was a large serving and I could easily have had this as my meal. I didn’t eat all of it, as I had also ordered the roast lamb with potatoes. With my dinner, I had a 1/2 bottle of Montepulciano (9€). I received a small plate of biscotti for dessert, so I ordered a glass of vin Santo (a sweet dessert wine) to dip my biscotti. Filipo had also ordered an after dinner drink but changed to a vin Santo when he saw our waiter pour my glass. Later I received a complimentary glass of limoncello. (Total 38.80€).

I said this restaurant had a good mixture of tourists and locals. I watched an older gentleman, dressed in a nice jacket and scarf, walk in, greet his waiter, and while taking off his jacket and scarf, dictated his entire dinner to the waiter. No menu, as obviously he was a regular. He sits quietly eating his pasta and drinking his house red wine despite the noisy atmosphere. That made me smile. Hostaria Romana is a place that locals frequent.

I had a nice walk back to the hotel via the Trevi fountain, which was beautiful at night. I walked up via del Corso taking pictures of the red, white, green lights, which ran all the way down to Vittorio Emanuele monument. Rome was celebrating their 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

Near my hotel, I saw a young couple that had been on my flight, so we talked for several minutes. Small town. In my room it was nice and warm. I finished my evening with a shower and a small glass of wine. It rained lightly in the evening.

Thursday, 16 February 2012:

Before flying to Rome, I emailed the hotel staff and asked if they could make reservations for me for the Borghese gallery for 11am. I took bus #53 as suggested by Mr. Chini. He also recommended #52. I had planned to take the little mini bus 116, but he told me the other two would get me much closer to the gallery. Of course, he was right.

There were lots of people and it took some time to pay for my ticket (13€) and rent an audio guide (5€). All bags, purses, etc, (but not jackets or coats) had to be checked at the desk. My purse had no valuables and in fact, I left my camera at the hotel. I read a couple of reviews of things gone missing in purses. When I later left the museum, I realized that there was no x-ray machine to walk through and I probably could have kept my camera in my jacket pocket.

What an incredible and beautiful museum! I started upstairs with the paintings (as recommended by a friend who said start at the top while the majority of the visitors start on the first level). Some of the paintings were not clearly tagged for the audio guide, so sometimes it took me a few extra seconds to get to the correct painting. Having only two hours in the gallery, I felt some of the audio information was a little too lengthy.

Down on the first floor, I was mesmerized with Bernini’s sculptures. My two top favorites were Apollo and Daphne, and Pluto and Proserpina. As I continued on to the other sculptures, I kept walking back to these two. Be sure to study the delicate looking leaves between Apollo and Daphne. It’s almost hard to believe they are made out of marble. Bernini was 24 when he began this sculpture. Bernini was gifted to say the least. And take a look at Pluto’s fingers and how they push against Proserpina’s thigh. Just incredible.

The villa itself is a museum with elaborate walls, paintings on the ceilings, chandeliers, ornate furniture, inlaid wood flooring, etc. Two hours is simply not enough time to spend at the Borghese Gallery.

I took the 116 bus back to the hotel and gathered up my camera and a couple of things. I wanted pizza for lunch, so I started walking up Via di Ripetta and ended at Pizza Re (#14). I had read to either arrive early or late due to long lines for this pizzeria. I got there around 2pm and there were a few empty tables so I got one right away. There’s a long list of pizzas to choose from, as well as other dishes. I ordered a pizza with ham and mushrooms (9.50€) and a glass of red wine (3.50€). The wine was a much better quality than the typical house reds you get in a Roman restaurant, and it was a good pour. The pizza was very good and as always for me, too much - times like this is when I’d like to have a travel partner to split a pizza. The dough had a nice crust on the edges. The tomato sauce was light and delicious

Afterwards, I walked around Piazza del Popolo. There was some sort of horse show in the center of the piazza with a large viewing stand. Also, there were children in costumes and carnival performers entertaining the crowds. I even saw two ‘gladiators’ in the Roman attire riding on segways! Too funny!! A little further north was Piazza Flamingo with an outdoor clothing market in progress. I had read about these markets selling all sorts of items to the locals. I saw sweaters, jackets, underwear, belts, cosmetics, etc., all at bargain prices. Address:

One street I’ve always wanted to walk along was via Margutta. It’s quite small, peaceful, and hardly anyone in the area. There are art galleries, antique shops, and a restaurant or two. I’ll have to return again but in the evening.

I walked to the Pantheon before dinner and took some night shots. I ran into the same couple from my flight who were eating pizza on the steps of the fountain. They were in town for just two nights.

I ate at Armando al Pantheon. I was here in 2009. I read recent reviews and Armando al Pantheon was still high on the recommended listings. It’s located just steps from the Pantheon. What’s great about this place is that despite being in the heart of tourist Rome, the food is very good and prices are reasonable. I started with the Bresola alla Ghiottana, thinly sliced cured meat on a bed of arugula and topped with cheese and olive oil (10€). For my entree I had the gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce (9.50€). The gorgonzola sauce was just right, not too overly rich or thick in cheese flavor, but it looked boring. Maybe a sprinkle of color (parsley?) would have made it more appetizing looking, but it was delicious. With my meal I had a 1/2 bottle of wine and bottled water. Total 33€.

After dinner, I walked around for about an hour, went into a shop in the Campo de Fiori and bought a small bottle of limoncello (4.90€), and took photos of fountains and streets. Rome is so bellissimo when lit up at night. In bed at midnight.

Friday, 17 February 2012:

I slept in till 9am. My original plans were to take the train to Orvieto, but I had decided the day before that I didn’t want to have to get up at some crazy early hour to get to the Termini station to catch the 8:25am train. It would have been a very nice day in Orvieto, as I had good notes on the town and even knew where I wanted to eat for lunch, but I decided to save Orvieto for another trip where I could spend the night there.

Breakfast (included in the nightly room rate) is pretty basic but enough to get me going for the day: Cereal, toast, bread, fruit, yogurt, cheese, nutella, coffee, tea, juice, etc. Before going out for the day, I emailed a shuttle service company and booked my trip back to the airport (door to door service) for 20€. I was told to be ready at 8:10am.

The day was beautiful and in the low 50’s. I went to the Santa Maria della Pace. I was disappointed to see that it was closed. My guidebook (obviously outdated) said it was open Mon-Sat. There was a sign at the gate that stated it was only open three days/week (Mon, Wed, and Sat). I didn’t know if this was yearly or a winter schedule. I would have to return the next day.

I made my way to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (passing through Piazza Navona), walked to the nearest bus stop, and picked up the #64 bus to the Vatican. Knowing #64 is famous for pickpockets, I had my camera deep in my purse, zipped and buttoned closed, my wallet inside my jacket pocket (also zipped closed) and my jacked zipped up with scarf around my neck. I was fully zipped! I was secure. No hands were going to get anywhere near my valuables. The bus was only 2/3rds full and I didn’t see anyone that looked like gypsies or pickpockets, although I read some pickpockets dress very well to disguise themselves.

I decided to go to the top of St. Peters dome. I chose to do the combination elevator and stairs to the top (7€), saving 231 steps. All steps (551) 5€. What great views! It was difficult to walk around the outside area with everyone at the edge taking pictures and because there’s just no a lot of walking space. I just can't imagine going up the steps with the crowds in the heat of summer.

After a visit inside the Basilica, I walked a few blocks to Borgo Pio, a pedestrian street filled with restaurants. Several had a person standing outside trying to lure hungry diners inside with large printed menus written in a few different languages. I kept walking until I reached Tre Pupazzi (#183), a restaurant I had been to back in 2007 with friends Deb and Robert. I ordered the tomato bruschetta (two larges slices of toasted bread topped with fresh tomatoes, olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt) and the fettuccini con tartufo (11€). I wish I had a gadget to record the incredible smell of the truffle sauce (is there such a kitchen spray or eau de toilette with truffle scent on the market?) - it’s one of the best smells in the world. (I still remember the shop in Provence that sold only truffle products. You walk in and the smell hits you like a brick!) The pasta was so delectable! With a 1/4 liter of house white wine (3€) and water (2€), my bill came to 16€. This place is popular with the Vatican clergy. Three were sitting behind me and two more towards the back, all looking like they were enjoying their lunch. Courteous service, a comfy interior, this is a place that I recommend for anyone that wants a good lunch (or dinner) after a day of sightseeing at Vatican City.

I took the bus back to Largo Chigi and to my hotel but turned around after a few minutes, as I decided to see if I could catch the 4pm free Rome walking tour that starts near the Spanish Steps. (http://www.romefreewalkingtour.com/) I waited at the column of the Immaculate, located to the left of the Steps. Two young women showed up with signs. I was the only one waiting. At 4:15pm, one of the women said, “Okay, it’s just you and me.” Cool! - a private tour! But then four people showed up. Still it was a nice small group.

The 4pm tour is called “Unforgettable Rome.” There are three or four tours daily to different parts of Rome. We walked to the Trevi fountain while the guide talked about the aqueducts and how water was brought to the city center of Rome. I didn’t realize that there was part of an ancient aqueduct very close to my hotel. Between the Trevi fountain and our next stop (the Pantheon), we stopped to look at the remains of the Temple of Hadrian in the Piazza di Pietra, which a bank incorporated pillars and part of a wall for its building. We visited inside the Pantheon, and later ended up at Piazza Navona to learn about Bernini’s fountain.

While listening to the guide, we were distracted by two policemen only a few feet away from us who tried to grab a man selling cheap watches. Apparently he didn’t have a license to sell watches. I turned in time to see the seller grab as many watches as he could from his cardboard table before he scurried into the crowds and disappeared. The police gathered up the remaining watches off the ground.

Then we saw the carnival group that I had seen two other times. They were advertising their performance schedule and did a round of song and dance, which I caught on video. Each person was dressed in a costume from different areas of Italy: Rome, Naples, Venice, etc. Two women were on tall stilts and they made it look very easy to walk on the Roman streets.

After tipping the guide and thanking her (one man didn’t say a word, not even a Grazie, turned around and walked away without tipping – what a shame. Yes, It’s a free walking tour but the guides do work for tips), I walked to Largo Argentina (saw some kitties eating their dinner) hoping to take some “blue hour” shots but I didn’t like the setting. I continued walking until I got to the Vittorio Emanuele monument. There I was able to capture the building against the cobalt blue sky of the evening.

I walked back to my room to relax, as I did a lot of walking today. I charged up my camera battery and had a glass of wine with my feet propped up on the bed.

I had dinner reservations for il Fico at 8pm. I read a few good reviews of the restaurant and what sparked my taste buds were the words, “Octopus salad.” It was a good 20 minute walk from my hotel, so I headed out a little early to enjoy the street scenes. I got to the restaurant a little before 8pm and saw just a few people sitting inside. My heart sank a little as I wondered if I made a good choice. I was expecting to see the place full with diners, but maybe it was still early for the regulars to show up. I walked around the area and then went inside the restaurant. I was greeted with a warm smile from Giovanna, the waitress who took care of me throughout the night. I was given a glass of prosecco, which I thought was a nice touch. The place slowly filled, although only to about 80% capacity. There were lots of Italians, which I think is always a good sign.

I had a very good dinner: Fried stuffed zucchini flowers with anchovies and cheese (really good! 3€), octopus salad, which I thoroughly enjoyed, 6€; saltimbocca - two pieces, cut very thin, topped with proscuitto, and served with a nice light lemon flavored sauce. It was a small portion but quite flavorsome. With wine (and complimentary limoncello and biscotti for dessert) my bill came to 25€. I thought this to be an excellent value along with very friendly service. I think this was the only restaurant that had music in the background.

After dinner, I did my usual evening stroll around the area. I ended at the Trevi fountain and then continued on and ended up near Hostaria Romana so I went inside and made dinner reservations for the next night.

Saturday 18 February 2012:

I slept in again. It was nice that I didn’t have to get up early and rush to go out for the day. My last day in Rome started with a visit to the Santa Maria della Pace and the cloister, which was built by Bramante. I've seen prettier cloisters. Upstairs is a café and a small museum with art that was too contemporary for my tastes. I walked all the way to the Vittorio Emanuele monument. On the right side of the monument at its base is the fairly new Museo Nazionale della Emigrazione Italiana (National Museum of Italian Emigration). None of the information was in English (although I understood many of the posted information); however, the photographs, booklets, artifacts, etc., summed things up. There were also a few rooms that all sorts of Italian maps, some depicting the country, some the provinces, and others political. Very interesting museum and no entry fee.

Next to the stairs was a sign to the terrace, so I started up, and up, and up. Lots of stairs! I reached the outside. More wonderful views. Across the street was the Traiano forum, the Forum towards the right and the colosseum in the distance. There’s also a glass elevator that goes even higher (5€?).

Before heading down again, I went inside the Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli, with its beautiful interior (although the façade is quite plain).

Sometimes when watching Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations show, I jot down notes on places or restaurants. Not too long ago I saw a show which included Nonna Betta, located in the Jewish quarter of Rome. I was in the area so I popped in for lunch. It was about 2:30pm and the place was completely full. It took a good 20 minutes before I could get a table, which was fine. I didn't mind waiting, as the dishes I saw looked great, even the pizza.

I was seated in the center of the restaurant, which has a sky light, four pillars in the center of the room, and several small, closely positioned tables. Further back was another room, which I believed was the garden area.

I posted my review on Nonna e Betta on Trip Advisor and received a private message from the owner of … Il Giardino Romano, who asked me to correct my review, which I said I would. When I first arrived to the restaurant I saw the sign for Nonna Betta and several postings on the window, including a photograph of Anthony Bourdain. I walked into the restaurant door assuming I was walking into Nonna Betta. I was wrong. Looking back at my photos, I thought the two doorways were for the one restaurant. What’s interesting is that where I sat for lunch is where Anthony Bourdain filmed his show for Nonna Betta. Why didn’t he film his show in the correct restaurant? Are these two restaurants owned by the same owner? I’m not sure, as I have not received a response back from the owner of Il Giardino Romano.

In any case, I had a very good lunch at il Giardino Romano. I didn't want a big meal so I ordered the Antipasti di Ghetto, which was a good mixture of fried artichoke (trimmed, flattened and deep fried), mozzarella, zucchini flower, and battered cod. All for 10€ (I wasn’t charged for the bottled water). It was the perfect amount for my lunch without being stuffed. Everything was full of flavor, the batter light, and not greasy. I think the bread they served was the best bread in town!

The place was busy the entire time I was there. As people left, tables were quickly cleaned and new guests were seated. I was lucky to get a table. I’ll be sure if I return again to make reservations (especially for dinner).

More walking after lunch. I wanted to walk to the colosseum. Instead of retracing my steps, I went the looooong way around thinking there was a street I could cut through. I ended up on the back side of the Forum. Down one small street I discovered a great indoor market, the Circo Massimo market, which is held only on the weekends (via San Teodoro). I saw a variety of olive oil, cheese, wine, cured meats, bags of biscotti, honey, vegetables, and other products – all made in Rome or Lazio (the region of Rome) and all in-season products. Too bad I was flying standby for my flight home, otherwise I would have picked up a bottle of olive oil.

In one corner of the building a young man was pouring wine samples. We talked for several minutes. He was a little surprised I was traveling alone. I told him I flew standby and this was a last minute trip. He said his father has a friend that’s a pilot and that the pilot and his family fly for free everywhere; saying he was jealous of his father’s friend. I didn’t dare tell him what I paid for my flights.

I walked along the Circus Maximus and then finally up to the Colosseum. It’s always an amazing site to see. Not quite crowded as during the summer, there were still lots of people, as well as gladiators trying to get tourists to pose with them. I sat for a bit and people watched.The sun was going down and I could tell it was not going to be a pretty sunset, so I started to walk back to the hotel. I didn’t get that far when I decided to look at the bus schedules at a nearby bus stop. The right bus pulled up so I climbed on board and saved my feet, about a mile walk back to the hotel. For my return trip to Rome, I’m going to bring my pedometer just to see how many miles I’m walking. I’m sure I’m walking several miles every day. A quick stop at the grocery store near the hotel for a small bottle of wine, I was glad to be in my room for a couple of hours. Plus as the sun went down, the air became much cooler.

I packed my carry on bag with most of my things and then headed out for the evening. On the way to Hostaria Romana, I walked past the Trevi fountain. I found a grocery store and picked up a bottle of limoncello for 4.99€ for a nightcap. Obviously I wouldn’t drink all of it and I couldn’t bring it home, but hell, it was the same price as the tiny 2-oz? cute bottle I bought at the Campo de Fiori.

I arrived at Hostaria Romana and the place was pretty full. The tables are set close together (typical of many small restaurants in Rome), only a few inches apart, and I sat next to a French couple. We talked a little. Very good evening, although it started out bad. There was a large group of loud and obnoxious American tourists sitting behind me, about a dozen of them. It sounded liked their first time traveling, as I heard, “This looks strange.” “What’s this I’m eating?” “This spaghetti doesn’t taste the same like at home.” What do they eat at home? Chef Boyardee pasta? The French woman and I rolled our eyes, “Ugh!” The group left soon after and the place quieted down and I was able to enjoy the rest of the evening.

I ordered the Osso bucco, which was fork-tender and delicious, and a side of sautéed spinach; ½ liter house red wine; total 25.50€. It pays to return to a restaurant, as I received a larger portion of the osso bucco compared to the French man next to me. And one of the waiters gave me a small plate of antipasti when he saw I wasn’t eating anything. I told him I didn’t order an appetizer and was just waiting for my entrée.

Another solo traveler came into the restaurant and sat at the other table next to me. He arrived when the obnoxious tourists were still in the restaurant. After they left, I commented to him that I was glad the group left. He told me that this restaurant is listed in the Rick Steves guidebook. No wonder! I typically steer clear of restaurants Steves recommends, although I like his books for his other information. At least I discovered this place a few years ago when it wasn’t in any guidebook.

One last look at the Trevi fountain, I was back at the hotel, paid my bill, and called it a night with some limoncello.

Sunday, 19 February 2012:

I got up at 7am and after some yogurt and juice, I said my goodbyes to Tiziano, who joked asking me if he should just store my carry on bag (and the bottle of limoncello I gave him) since I would be returning in the fall (Mr. Chini was not in yet), and then waited outside for my shuttle service to the airport. I was told my pick up time was 8:10am, so I was outside by 8am.

The van arrived at 8:20am. There were only two others in the van. I do need to contact the company about the driver. Talk about fast driving! I’ve been in a car or van in Italy before with Italian drivers (including Tony’s cousin Pepino while driving along the Amalfi coast!), but this one was almost reckless. We did get to the airport rather quickly, not just because of his speeding but being a Sunday, traffic was light.

The woman at the check in counter told me the envoy class “looked good” so I kept my fingers crossed for the upgrade.

Going through security was fast and easy. Everyone received a clear plastic bag to place their electronics inside. Once on the other side, I checked in at the gate just to make sure I was listed for envoy class. Tony had emailed me the night before telling me I was number 8 (out of 11) on the listing. One employee was traveling with his mother and he paid for upgraded seats. Now I wasn’t sure if I would be one of the lucky ones.

I bought a bottle of water and a bite to eat, a Bufalino sandwich (mozzarella, spinach and proscuitto – really good, all for 6.60€) and waited to be called for my seat assignment.

I ended up in seat 4F, envoy class! I was so happy. All of the people that were wait-listed also got upgraded. What a great flight home. Comfortable seats, great service by the flight attendants (especially Susan), good food and drink. I think I slept a little, which was good, as I had a long drive back home.

I was home by 7:20pm and didn’t feel very tired. Usually by this time I’m ready for bed but I actually stayed up till about 10:30pm. I had the next day off (holiday) and then back to work the following day.

Summary:

That’s it. A quick trip to Rome flying standby (a rarity for me), I had a really great time. My four days felt like seven days. I filled them with lots of walking, a couple of museums (love, love, love the Borghese gallery), good food and decent house wine. The staff at Hotel Parlamento, as always, was friendly and helpful, especially when making my dinner reservations. I’ll be back in Rome in the fall and I’m looking forward to discovering new (okay, old) things in Rome.

My Photos:
http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/Italy/Rome-Italy-February-2012/21560234_zfrCPv#%21i=1719168229&k=d56MDkX

Sabor de Cuba, Frederick Maryland

6 February 2012: I was so excited to read in the Frederick Maryland Online web site (which I subscribe to and sometimes post comments) that a new Cuban restaurant was opening in town. It's called Sabor de Cuba and it's located on Patrick Street in downtown Frederick Maryland.

This past Saturday was First Saturday, a monthly event held in Frederick. We decided to try Sabor for dinner. We arrived at 6:30pm (no reservations) and were seated immediately. We went in expecting slow service, as Sabor only opened on 1 February. We know that restaurants take some time to work out any kinks and we were not in a rush to leave.

The restaurant was full, a good sign I think. There is a small bar with about 5 bar stools and the dining room for about 50 people.

The menu looked great with lots of typical Cuban dishes, although I did review it on their web site.

Appetizers range from $2 to $10 and include items such as empanadas (beef or chicken), tostones (green plantains stuffed with either beef or shrimp), croquetas de jamon, etc. Two items of note were the bread and butter or bread with garlic butter appetizers at $2. Unlike many Cuban restaurants we’ve been to (and even most other restaurants) you pay for your bread if you want any.

There’s a soup and two salads ($4 to $8), and four choices of sandwiches ($8 and $9) including the Cubano (one of my favorites).

Entrées include a nice selection from Bistec de Palomilla, Picadillo (another favorite), Ropa Vieja, Arroz con Pollo, etc. Price for dinner range from $14 to $18.

We ordered the Empanadas de carne ($5), the Pollo a la Plancha for myself ($14) and the Bistec de Palomilla ($16) for Tony. I also ordered a glass of Pinot Grigio ($5.50) and Tony had a soda.

As I said, we know service can be slow with a new restaurant but I felt 40 minutes was a little on the long side to receive our empanadas. It even took some time to get our drinks, although I saw them sitting on the bar.

The empanadas were wonderful! Nice and meaty inside and very flavorful. The dough was golden brown and not greasy at all.

Our dinners arrived 15 minutes later. Tony's dish included black beans and rice, as well as sweet plantains. The bistec, which is pounded thin and grilled, was hidden under the plantains. It was a small 2.5 to 2.75-ounce piece of overcooked, dry meat.

My chicken (citrus marinated and grilled) came with sweet plantains, not green plantains I was expecting, as stated on the menu. It was also supposed to come with black beans and rice. My chicken looked to be about 3 ounces total. It took at 15 minutes to get my rice and beans after the young waitress told me my dish did not include rice and beans, and after I asked to see a menu and pointed it out to her. Most typical Cuban meals include rice and beans. It shouldn’t have taken 15 minutes for her to bring out my food when the mistake was discovered. In fact, I had to ask the hostess, who saw what was going on to bring me the food, which she did.



Tony and I were very disappointed in our food. To be charged $16 and $18 for our entrées with meat portions no larger than 3 ounces was unacceptable. This is a Cuban restaurant – foods that are simply made with wonderful flavors, and with inexpensive ingredients. I noticed other dishes that came out of the kitchen and the portions looked much bigger (i.e., the Picadillo, Camarones Enchilados (sautéed shrimp, and Ropa Vieja). Our bill arrived and I was charged $23 for my glass of wine, the price of a bottle. The bill was corrected. After dinner, we sat at the bar and hand a round of drinks and chatted with two bartenders (mother, daughter). At one point Tony made the comment about how small the meat portion was but was shrugged off by the employees.

We will return to Sabor after the dust settles and to give it a second chance. We have to believe our dishes were just not properly prepared with the correct size portion of the beef and chicken. And I want my green plantains! After all, their web site states, “Simple food, complex flavors.” That usually means good food and reasonable prices to us.

After dinner, we walked around town checking out the various ice sculptures. Fire and Ice was the them for February's First Saturday.

Sabor de Cuba9 East Patrick Street, Frederick, MD 21701

www.sabordecubarestaurant.com/

26 JULY 2012: A much happier note. I returned to Sabor with a friend for dinner wanting to give Sabor a second try. I was not disappointed.

We arrived at 6:30pm with only six other diners in the room. Two more tables eventually filled; one couple at the bar.

We were warmly greeted with smiles by Mike, our waiter, who is also the chef and co-owner.  Asking if we had been here before, I said yes, to which he thanked me for returning. Mike told us about his popular dishes, which all sounded delicious. The description of the roast pork caught my attention, while my friend zeroed in on the ropa vieja.

We ordered the chicken empanadas as our starter, but after five minutes our entrees arrived.  Mike apologized when I asked him if he had placed our order for the empanadas. He seemed embarrassed, but it certainly wasn’t a problem: the plates were full of food. In fact we took half our entrees home.

My pork (with sliced onions) was very flavorful and tender, having been marinated for hours, although some pan juices would be an added nice touch. There was plenty of rice and the black beans were tasty.  On top of the rice were four plump fried sweet plantains. Yum!

My friend enjoyed her ropa vieja, which also came with sweet plantains; her rice and beans were mixed together.

Mike offered us empanadas to take home or dessert. We chose the tres leches, a light yellow-type cake that’s soaked with a sweet milky liquid. It was excellent!  The cake was so moist from the liquid. It was topped with whipped cream and drizzled with a strawberry pureé.

Our bill came to $30, which was reasonable for the amount of food we had.


I was so happy to have had a much better meal and much better service. I even met the owner and chatted with her for a few minutes. I’m looking forward to returning to Sabor soon.

Cellar Door, Frederick Maryland

Tony and I recently dined at the Cellar Door. It's a cozy and warm restaurant located in the basement of the building. It used to be the Brown Pelican, our all time favorite restaurant in Frederick, but it closed a few years ago.

There are two sitting areas plus the bar area with a few tables. Tony and I decided to sit in the bar area for our meal. Next time we'll sit in the restaurant area, as the bar chairs were uncomfortable.

We started with the fried mozzarella appetizer, which came with roasted peppers, tomatoes and a balsamic sauce. It was very good. The breading was very light, maybe panko?

Tony had the Eastern Shore - a medley of seafood (fish, scallops, mussels, shrimp) with rice in a tomato and wine broth and served with garlic toast.

I had the crab-stuffed shrimp that was served with asparagus, polenta and tomato butter. (no photo).

Everything was excellent, including the service! However, be warned, the portions are not huge but for us they were perfectly fine. No doggie bag from this place. It's definitely a place for a splurge dinner. Pricing is along the lines of the Tasting Room and Volt, also very good restaurants in Frederick.

10 March 2012: Tony and I have returned here a few more times. The food is excellent! Tony keeps ordering the Eastern Shore, which I had for the first time last night. The flavors are incredible - no wonder he keeps ordering it. We had two appetizers too - the ahi tuna and seared scallops. The tuna was prepared perfectly: lightly seared and raw on the inside. It was served with a nice asian slaw. The scallops (2) were large, plump, and tender. The were served on a bed of onion and bacon risotto, which was creamy and perfectly al dente.
Ahi Tuna
Seared Scallops

On a previous visit, I had the chicken Chesapeake that came with asparagus, lump crab, mashed potatoes and béarnaise sauce. It was a large portion so I had leftovers for lunch.
Chicken Chesapeake

Another good appetizer: the hot crab dip! It's served with toast and crackers. It's rich and creamy, so make sure you share with others.

Eastern Shore




Cellar Door
5 East Church & Market St Frederick, MD 21701
301.695.8460
http://thecellardoorrestaurant.com/

New Underwater Camera...Testing

1/2/12: I'm heading to the Caribbean in the spring and plan to do some snorkeling. I purchased a really cheap underwater camera when I was in Hawaii last year. It was only $12 and the casing enclosed a point/shoot reusable 35mm camera. I really enjoyed swimming with the turtles and had hoped to take better pictures.

For Christmas I received tha Panasonic Lumix TS3 - a bright aqua blue color. Having read lots of reviews of underwater cameras, I felt this one had the best features for my needs.

I was out shopping at a mall today and I took some photos of the carouselle.

Cropped 100%. Pretty sharp!

And, here's one of Lucy. You can add a picture frame. There were only 3 options.

There are lots of other neat features, a bunch of scene modes, and even GPS capability.

Keep your fingers crossed that I get some good shots while in the Caribbean waters.

Korean Lunch

1/16/2012: I was out shopping around and heading home via Rte 40 when I noticed the small sign of Kim Bob Na Ra in a strip plaza. I made a u-turn and headed inside. It was in the late afternoon and only two tables with Koreans eating their lunch.

I ordered the Bi Bimbap for my meal. While waiting, I was served green tea and four types of vegetables in individual small plates: Kim chee (not hot enough for me), diakon (love the crunch), one that I could not identify but was delicious, and an odd one: potato salad with peanuts (delicious).

My Bi bimbab was somewhat different than what I'm used to. It had most of the same ingredients (rice, beef, assorted vegetables, shitaki mushrooms, and a fried egg on top), however, this one was served cold. At other Korean restaurants (such as Hana's in Frederick, which unfortunately is no longer in business) the food is served in a piping hot stone bowl and the egg is still runny so that you can stir it in to the rice mixture to finish cooking. The egg that was on my dish was overcooked (topped with shredded seaweed). Still, it was a good meal and very filling. I'm sure this is just one version of many. Personally, I perfer the hot version.

The restaurant is quite small, sitting about 40 people. The place is very basic, almost a hole-in-the-wall, but that's the kind I like.

The woman that served me was very quiet but pleasant. As I left, I told her I would bring my husband here. We miss the Korean restaurant where we live. She gave me a happy smile and was thankful.

Kim Bob Na Ra
9339 Baltimore National Pike
Ellicott City, MD 21042
410-465-9166
Open 10am to 10pm

Lunch at Jalapenos

14 January 2012: Today Tony and I had lunch with my dad and brother, a belated Christmas get together. We went to Jalapenos, a Mexican-Spanish restaurant, located in a strip mall in Annapolis, MD. While the area doesn't seem inviting, the interior of the restaurant welcomes us along with the owner who greets us at the door. There are murals on the walls along with colorful ceramic plates. Near the entrance is a glass waterfall. The place is cozy and warm.

Our waitress was quick to serve us fresh-made salsa and chips. A variety of music is played in the background, although dad thought it was a litte too loud.

Tony ordered the Ropa Vieja, which is actually a Cuban dish of shredded beef sauteed with onions, tomatoes, pimentos, garlic, and wine, along with fried plantains. Spanish rice and black beans were also included. He enjoyed his dish very much.Dad and I each ordered the Tacos de Carnitas, three corn tortillas filled with tender shredded pork, guacamole, cilantro and onions, which is served with a spicy and tangy sauce. Spanish rice and black beans are included in the $10 entree. This is one of my favorite dishes. The pork was very tender and flavorful.
Charlie had a chicken burrito, which was pretty big in size. Another good dish.

Spanish hats, castanets and a fan hang on the wall near the entrance.

All in all, it was a very good lunch. The food was good and service was prompt.

Jalapenos
Forest Plaza Shopping Center, 85 Forest Drive,Annapolis, Maryland 21401
http://www.jalapenosonline.com/

London 4 nights and a wonderful transatlantic cruise!

Wednesday 26 October 2011, London

I arrived in London on an overcast day from Dulles international airport. On board my Virgin Atlantic flight were Marjorie and Leo, friends I cruised with in 2010. We met up with Lee and Mike (fellow cruisers), who flew in from Ottawa Canada. I hired a car service (Woodford Chauffeurs) that took us to our respective hotels. It was a long drive in to London, as it was rush hour.

I must mention that Virgin Atlantic has a 13-pound carry on weight limit! My camera equipment alone weighs around 10 pounds, so I left one lens at home and had Tony pack my netbook in his suitcase – he would be flying in the next day with our friends. The flight was great, as was the service. My economy seat was quite comfortable and I didn’t feel cramped at all.

My home for the next four nights was at the George Hotel
http://www.georgehotel.com/english/index.html located near Bloomsbury and just north of the Russell Square tube station. The buildings were originally townhouses but most converted to B&Bs. There is no elevator but two sets of stairs. My room (#11) was located on the ground floor with a window facing a plain interior courtyard. The room consisted of two beds, an armoire in the corner, a small table, tv on the wall and a very tiny bathroom! The room was cramped and there was really no room for my large suitcase. I kept it near the door, the only large floor space area. It’s a very basic place to say but fine for me. I would probably pick another hotel for a larger bathroom.

For the rest of the day, I explored the area, had lunch at Pret a Manger (a chain restaurant that serves fresh-made sandwiches, soups, etc), and spent some time at the British museum. It rained on and off throughout the day and it was cold. It was interesting to see lots of young people walking in the rain without umbrellas. When the sun was out, the sky was bright blue.

I headed to Soho where I had early dinner plans with Lee and Mike. I walked past the theatre district, Chinatown, the gay quarter, and Piccadilly Circus. I watched street performers for a bit. One street I thought was interesting had shops filled with musical instruments.

I found a wine bar (Shampers on 4 Kingly street) and a couple glasses of wine. My first order took quite a while to get. In fact the bartender that took my order disappeared. A second bartender took care of me. When I received the bill, there was only one glass of wine listed. The bartender told me since I waited so long for my first drink she didn’t want to charge me for the wine.

I met Lee and Mike at Masala Zone (9 Marshall Street), an Indian chain restaurant. We had a great evening and enjoyed our meal and company. We all ordered the Thali, which is a medley of foods served in bowls on a large platter. I had the butter chicken, which came with curry vegetables, raita, lentils, chapatis (whole wheat bread), and rice. Everything was scrumptious!

After dinner, the guys walked me back to my hotel, about a 1.7-mile walk. It was a pleasant but cool evening. I slept well that night.

Thursday 27 October 2011, London

Tony and friends (Glenn, Carol, Louisa, Robin, and Carolyn, Mark) arrived at the hotel. They took the same Virgin Atlantic flight but decided to upgrade to economy plus for $50 each. Tony freshened up and we headed out the door with Glenn and Carol. We took the tube from Russell Square station (purchased the Oyster card) to the science museum to meet up with an older gentleman (also named Tony) who took the train in to meet us for the day. The guys met Tony (a retired Royal Air Force officer) back in 2009 on our transatlantic cruise.

While the guys hung out, Carol and I visited the Victoria and Albert museum, which we both thoroughly enjoyed.

While Glenn and Carol headed back to the hotel to check in to their room, the three of us took the tube to Westminster Abbey. I wanted to go inside but changed my mind when I saw the hefty entry price, 18£! That’s about $28USD. I didn’t want to pay that price, especially since I had visited there in 2005. We walked across Westminster Bridge and had some tea and coffee at the café at the London Eye. Glenn and Carol later showed up. We bought tickets for the Eye and it was only a 5-minute wait in line. Of course we weren’t in London at the height of tourist season. We enjoyed the views, although we were disappointed in the overcast day. The city looked gloomy.



We had dinner at the Sherlock Holmes Pub located near Charing Cross (10 Northumberland Street). I had been here for a pint in 2005 and liked the atmosphere. It was packed and the tables were filled, but we only had to wait a few minutes for a group to clear out. Tony had the fish/chips and I had a meat pie.

Tony took the train home and we walked a bit before taking the tube back to the hotel.

Friday 28 October 2011, Day trip to Greenwich

After eating a full English breakfast (eggs, sausage, baked beans, tomato slice, as well as coffee, tea, fruit juice, and toast) in the small dining room Tony, Glenn, Carol, Carolyn, Mark, and I went to Greenwich via the tube and DLR.

The Cutty Sark was under repairs, so we couldn’t see much of it. We walked around the royal naval college and its chapel; and spent some time at the national maritime museum.



For lunch, we sat outside in the gardens at the King’s Arms Pub (King William Walk). This time I had the fish/chips with mushy peas while Tony had a lamb potpie (lunch with a beer and wine 24.80£). It was chilly outside but there were heat lamps to keep us somewhat warm. Service was extremely slow but the food was good.

The last stop of the day was to see the observatory and the meridian line. Tony and I kissed across the line. The views from above were fine and we could see central London in the distance.

We decided on a boat ride back to London. Tony, Glenn, Carol and I got off at Tower Bridge and walked over to the Borough market, while the other two headed to the London Eye. The market was closing down but we still got to see lots of great foods – we even sampled some cheese and liquors. I’m sure it’s quite bustling during the day.

For dinner the six of us dined at Balfour Italian restaurant (75-77 Marchmont St), located two blocks from our hotel. The restaurant was full and we had no reservations, but the manager said a table would be opening up in 5 minutes. Tony and I bought a bottle of wine. I had the goat cheese crostini and the ricotta-stuffed ravioli and butter sage sauce. Tony had the spaghetti Bolognese. Everything was very good and the portions pretty large (47£).

Back at the hotel we all met in the dining/sitting area and had some drinks. Everyone had purchased bottles of wine or vodka, plus we purchased bottles to bring on the ship (2 bottle maximum).

Saturday 29 October 2011, Day trip from London

I booked a private tour for 14 of us to visit Stonehenge, Bath and a couple of villages. I used International Friends (http://www.internationalfriends.co.uk/) after much research. David was our driver and he was a chatty fellow. Non-stop encyclopedia, history buff. He was knowledgeable in a wide variety of interesting things, including British and American law. What I thought was most interesting were the explanation of how some phrases came about. One is, “Kick the bucket” whereby the person standing on the bucket with a slip noose kicks his/her own bucket. If he/she failed to die, the family would yank down on the body to finish him/her off. I always knew it as someone who died.


It took about 1 hour 45 minutes to get to Stonehenge. It was an overcast morning but I was thrilled to see Stonehenge. Yes, it’s a love it or hate kind of thing. I’ve always been interested in the history and mystery of the stones. We had an hour there with the use of audio guides.

The next stop was to Bath, a beautiful city that sits on several hills. The sun came out so Carol and I got some great shots. I’m so glad we took our photos when we first arrived, as it clouded up and began to rain just after entering the Roman baths. Our visit lasted about an hour. I wanted some time to walk around town and have a light lunch. We ended up doing a take out of some hefty pasty’s from Gourmet Scoffs, which was recommended to me by the tour manager. Mine had braised beef, onions, and potatoes. I couldn’t finish it all.

My favorite stop of the day (because I love photography) was Castle Combe, a charming and beautiful village. We only had 15 minutes there and I wished for more time. The village was quite with just two main streets. Some of the homes had their fireplaces going so I could see the smoke coming out of the chimneys. Some of the bushes and ivy on the walls had turned to their autumn colors. Hanging planters were everywhere including window planters. It was just lovely.

Lacock

The countryside was beautiful with its rolling, green hills and specks of villages here and there. Lacock was another pretty village that we visited. I saw a lovely bridal couple walk out of the local church so I snapped a few shots. Lacock is a village used by many moviemakers. Movies such as Pride and Prejudice, the Other Boleyn Girl, Harry Potter have been filmed there.

The last stop of the day before our 2-hour drive to London was to Avebury, another famous Stonehenge-type place with large stones in circles. It wasn’t as impressive as Stonehenge, probably because the circles are quite large and one cannot see all of it from one spot.

By the time we got back to the hotel, it was dark. It was a full day of touring and most enjoyable. I would love to return to England for a couple of weeks renting a car and driving to the villages in the countryside. Of course I would have to get up the nerve to drive on the left side of the road.

For our Cruise Critic (CC) pre-cruise get together, my friend Mike contacted a pub (Marquis of Cornwallis, 31 Marchmont St.) near our hotel and had an area reserved for us. About 30 people showed up. It was fun meeting fellow cruises. We had been chatting on line for over a year.

After a couple of drinks, we were ready for dinner and I didn’t want another pub meal. Nearby in the Brunswick shopping center is the Hare and Tortoise (11-13 The Brunswick), a Japanese Ramen noodle shop. I cannot find any Ramen noodle shops where I live. Tony and I started with the unagi and avocado maki. Six big portions. I had the Seafood Ramen as my entrée (with grilled salmon, shrimp, scallops, mussels) and Tony had the Miso Ramen (with char-sui pork, boiled egg, bean sprouts, etc). We also shared some sake, which warmed us up along with the soups. The others (Carolyn, Mark, Glenn and Carol) also enjoyed their appetizers and soups. It’s interesting that this Japanese place has a typical British pub name.

More drinks back at the hotel, some packing and then to bed. We’re off to Southampton tomorrow for the start of our cruise.

Sunday 30 October 2011, Off to Southampton via Winchester

After our full English breakfast and packing up our suitcases, our coach service arrived (same company I used to get to the hotel). There were 22 of us heading to Southampton with a two-hour stop in Winchester. It was a cold and rainy day. The group split up. Some headed directly to the Eclipse Pub. How apropos – it’s the same name as our cruise ship. Another find by my friend Mike. Six of us (Carolyn, Mark, Glenn, Carol, Tony and I) walked along the river, took pictures of the swans and ducks in the water, and saw the old Wolvesey castle, which sits in ruins. We stepped inside the Cathedral and kept to the back, as there was a service. I picked up a Christmas ornament at a nearby shop.

Tony found an ATM, as we were just shy a few pounds to pay for our service to the port (23£ per person, including tip). We walked around town, which was quite busy with tourists and then headed up hill to see the round table in the Great Hall. This is a 13th century hall from medieval times. The place is empty with the exception of the large round table on the wall at one end of the building. It bears the names of King Arthur’s knights. There is no historic evidence that the legend of King Arthur and his knights ever existed but it is certainly a romantic tale.

It was a 45-minute drive to the port of Southampton. It continued to rain but everyone was excited to see the beautiful Eclipse. Check in was a nightmare! Those of us that were Captain’s Club elite members went in (supposedly) the faster line. We were in line for an hour while the other line moved faster. It turned out that the staff moved some in the other line into ours, thereby clogging up the x-ray machines. So many people were furious. So much for priority check-in. Once at the counter, things picked up, or so I thought. Tony and I were asked to sit in the lounge area. We sat there for 10 minutes until Rui, the concierge on board, came and personally escorted us to our cabin. This was a surprise to us, although I knew why.

Happy to be on the ship with a glass of champagne, we checked out our balcony (cabin 9207, 1A category), which was larger than the standard balconies. Louisa and Robin’s balcony (next to us) was even larger. We were five cabins in a row (Mike/Maureen, Glenn/Carol, and Shaun/Melonee). I had Janet, our room attendant, open the partitions between our cabins and we enjoyed our long balcony the entire cruise.

The Oceanview Café was buzzing with cruisers digging into their first meal of the cruise. This is always a busy place for breakfast and lunch. After we had our lunch, we headed to our muster station. Ours was in the dining room. Once done, I was first in line to meet the dining room manager. Our group of 10 had been split into three tables, but he quickly corrected the situation.

The CC group members met up for the sail-away get together. We started at the Oceanview bar but it was very cold and windy, so we went to the Sky lounge. It was a lot of fun meeting other CCr’s.

My group of friends and I had the late seating (8:30pm) and we had table 240 with waiter Dwayne and assistant waiter Serkan. The table was located in the center of the dining room and only two tables way from the captain’s table. Dinner the first night was very good. I had the goat cheese tart, mushroom cappuccino soup, and the lamb shank.

Back in the cabin, there was a bottle of champagne and plate of chocolate covered strawberries on the table. What a nice treat to end our first day on the ship.

We had to change our clocks one hour forward. Last night we had to change our clocks back an hour.

Photo Links:

London:
http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/England/London-England-2011/20083200_C42cnt#1584387978_jb7tBRP

Stonehenge, Bath, and Villages:
http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/England/Stonehenge-Bath-Villages-2011/20611557_BcnPZD#1633880687_tcPTs45

Winchester:
http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/England/Winchester-England/20099191_Kf3WLD#1585987256_BFSghMm

Monday 31 October 2011, Le Havre France

Tony and I had breakfast delivered to our room since we had an early start to the day. I rented a 9-seater van for eight of us (Norm, Carol, Glenn, Carol, Carolyn, Mark, Tony and me). There is a rental office right at the port, which was very convenient. It took a while to get the van but once we got it we were on our way.

All of the guys read up on the history of Normandy and the D-Day beaches. Each of the guys picked an area to lecture on as we toured around. I drove to Pont du Hoc, located near Omaha beach, the furthest point in our trip. I decide it would be best to work our way back to Le Havre as we went along the beaches. It was a cloudy morning but the sun eventually came out. Temps were in the high 50s.

I had been to Normandy before with my mother but it was a first for most in the group. I felt Pont du Hoc was the most interesting to me because of the many craters, fortifications, and the difficulty the Army Ranger assault group had while climbing the cliffs under enemy fire from above. There is a memorial dedicated to the battle. To really get a feel of the place, go to Google maps and search Pont du Hoc. Click on the satellite where you get a better view of the pockmarked land.

We went to the American cemetery. There is a visitor center and small museum, well worth spending time there. Walking among the over nine thousand graves, the cemetery can be a quite moving and emotional place to visit. The white gravestones are in perfect alignment and the grounds are immaculate. I saw several gravestones for unknown soldiers: 'Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God'.

At Omaha beach nearby, we walked along the beach. There is an interesting sculpture by Anilor Banon right on the beach called Les Braves. It looks like huge silver metal swords jutting out from the sand. The sculpture is for the Americans who liberated France. The beach is peaceful today with small children playing in the sand, too young to know the past history of the beaches.

In the small town of Arromanches-les-Bains, the location of the mulberry harbours and the main area of the D-Day landings, we had lunch. Some of us enjoyed fresh steamed mussels, so fresh there were tiny, tiny crabs among the mussels.

We could see some of the remaining mulberries and even a few people swimming in the cold water. There is a museum but the line was long and we didn’t have the time to go in.

On the way back to Le Havre, I pulled over next to a small restaurant. In the parking lot was a tank, so we took some pictures. We were back at the port by 6:30pm after filling the car with gas. It was a really great day of sightseeing.

Tony and I went to the sky lounge for the elite member’s happy hour (5-7pm nightly, except when there is a Captain’s club event). I recognized a British couple I met the previous year but couldn’t remember their names. When I walked up to them the woman said, “Hello Monica.” I was surprised that Audrey (and Jeff) remembered my name. We talked for a bit before they headed to dinner.

Dinner: Caprese salad, leek soup, pork medallions (very tender), and kiwi sorbet for dessert.

Southside, a party band, one of the best groups I’ve seen on any cruise, performed during the Masque Theme party. They perform most nights at 8pm in the atrium. Celebrity dancers and passengers danced the night away in the grand foyer including Tony and me. The dancers wore costumes and masks, as it was Halloween. It was tons of fun! The party continued in the Quasar bar but we didn’t go. We had an early wake up call for the next day.

Photo Links:

http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/France/D-Day-Beaches/20610272_HMFfg2#1633745320_54v4HQT

Tuesday 1 November 2011, Cherbourg France

I hired a company to take the same group of eight to Bayeux and more of the D-Day beaches. The price for the day was 320€, which I thought was a very good price. Rene was our driver and guide. His father, Claude Huard, was a “Maquis”, an underground resistant fighter and was liberated from Dachau by the 45th Infantry Division of the 7th US Army. He was the MC for the Memorial Day service held at Omaha beach for 30 years. Rene took over after his father passed away in 2001. Rene is passionate about the history of D-Day and WWII overall.

Rene drove us to Bayeux where we beat the tour buses. It was a beautiful sunny day and in the low 60’s. We spent about 40 minutes at the tapestry museum listening to the audio guide while viewing the famous tapestry. It’s actually an embroidery and is over 200 feet long. It tells the story of the Norman conquest of England (1064-1066).

November 1st is All Saints Day so the streets were quiet as we walked around town. Some of us stepped inside the Cathedral for a few minutes.

Sainte-Marie-du-Mont is a small town close to Utah beach. This was the first town to be liberated during the D-Day invasion. Being close to Utah beach where the Germans had gun batteries, it was a prime drop location for the airborne divisions.

Utah beach has one of the best war museums in Normandy. There are all sorts of artifacts, vehicles, weapons, pictures, and videos in the museum. The guys received a reduced entry fee because of their military status (retired).

Across from the museum was Restaurant le Roosevelt. Attached to the building is an old bunker with old communication equipment inside. For lunch, I had the croque monsieur (a grilled ham/cheese sandwich), which was good but I’ve had better (in Lourmarin). Tony had the plat du jour. (http://www.le-roosevelt.com/restaurant_anglais.htm). The owner gave me a postcard, which was a photograph of the bunker back in 1944.

Our last stop was at Sainte-Mere-Eglise, where there were heavy casualties for the paratroopers. One paratrooper got snagged on the town’s church steeple. He hung there for about two hours playing dead until the Germans cut him down and took him as prisoner. He later escaped and made his way back to his division. Red Buttons plays this character in The Longest Day, a movie Tony and I watched before the trip.

We were back in Cherbourg around 4:30pm. The ship sailed at 6pm. It was a really great tour with Rene.

In our cabin was a letter from the captain (Dimitrios Manetas) explaining some changes to the itinerary. The crew was closely watching the progress of a weather system in the Atlantic that was producing high winds and heavy seas. In order to play it safe, he canceled our last two ports, Vigo and the Azores, and added Gijon and La Coruña Spain, thereby staying somewhat inland from the Atlantic. Our sea day in the middle of the two original ports was moved to the day after La Coruña. Now we would have seven days at sea before docking in Miami. Many people were disappointed in the itinerary change but better to be safe and comfortable than sorry. Many people scrambled to book tours for the new ports. I emailed my tour guide in the Azores to cancel the tour I booked.

Because of the upcoming bad weather, the first formal night was changed to this evening. After some time in the cabin and getting ready for the evening, we headed to the sky lounge for the 7:45pm Celebrity Officer’s cocktail party. The waiters had an assortment of drinks, as well as hors d'oeuvres. Steve and Jeannette were at the party as well and I invited them to join us for dinner since Mike and Maureen were dining with Shaun and Melonee.

Dinner: Beef carpaccio, fish bisque, rack lamb (always a favorite), a bottle red wine, and chocolate raspberry mousse for dessert.

The ship left Cherbourg late due to having to take a person off the ship. Apparently he or she was deathly ill. I never heard what happened.

In the Sky lounge, Southside performed for the “Total Eclipse” formal dance party, which we enjoyed and danced a few times. Later Glenn, Carol, Steve, Jeanette, Tony and I hit the martini bar till about 1am.

Photo Links:

http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/France/Normancy-France-2011/20167851_PQmxD7#1592586311_ZtLhqC5

Wednesday 2 November 2011, Day at Sea

This was our first day at sea and I woke up to a rocking ship, more so than on my past cruises. I felt fine for the first 30 minutes but then I started to feel seasick. I took a Dramamine hoping it would kick in quickly. The waves were about 15-18 feet high, which doesn’t seem like much but enough to get people seasick.

I had breakfast in the Tuscan Grill, the location for the elite members. Bagel, cream cheese, and lox – just delish! I sat with Terry and Evan and when he heard I wasn’t feeling great from the motion of the ship he told me he would give me a pair of sea bands. He had extras.

The Captain made his usual morning announcement and gave an updated weather report stating he was expecting gale force 9 winds (47-54 mph with wave heights up to 32 ft) for the next 48 hours. I had heard later that lots of people were seasick and there were even a few broken bones. I saw an older man loose his balance and fall hard on his back and head. I felt so bad for him.

Tony and I attended the morning lecture with Professor Alan Dowty. One of Celebrity’s best features is the “Beyond the Podium Series”. Dowty’s lectures dealt with maritime. This one was entitled, “Trans-Atlantic Contact before Columbus” in which he discussed who might have found the new world before Columbus. This included the Egyptians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Irish, etc. All of his lectures were wonderful and informative. I thought he was a very good speaker, although his puns were really bad.

Lunch service was very slow in the dining room. Tony left for the 1pm lecture before he got his meal, so I had it delivered to the cabin. I had the duck salad with lentils, which was very good. I ate quickly and went to the theatre to catch the rest of the lecture. Lunch in the dining room is nice but you have to remember it’s full service.

The lecture was called, “Secrets of Ship Navigation’ that the 1st officer gave. At one point he showed us on the screen the current weather where we were heading. It was a huge mass of a storm in the Atlantic that the Captain was avoiding. In seeing this I knew he made a wise decision.

This afternoon was the CC slot pull. Fifty-three of us each paid $15 and had 5 pulls on a machine that Mike asked me to select. Mike collected all of the money and Glenn and Carol assisted him. In the end we walked away with $13 but with a card for a complimentary drink at the casino bar, a gift from the casino hostess.

Tony and I went to Michael’s for the elite happy hour. We had received in our cabin at the start of the cruise a special invitation. Due to so many elites on board, the captain’s club hostess invited a select number of elites to go to Michael’s for happy hour to reduce the number of people in the sky lounge. It was a treat! No smell of smoke like the sky lounge, a lot more intimate, and it was easier to get a glass of wine or martini.

Dinner: Escargot, pumpkin soup (not so good), filet mignon (excellent).

Thursday 3 November 2011, Gijon Spain

Tony spent the day on the ship while I went out with a group of friends (Glenn, Carol, Carolyn, Mark, Louisa, Robin, Terry, Evan, Penny and Herb). His knees were bothering him after all the walking we’ve done so far on this trip. There was complimentary shuttle service to the city center, about a 10-minute shuttle ride. We were dropped off next to the marina with its many sailboats. It was very picturesque; and a large red Gijon sign welcomed us.

Gijon is a charming Spanish city with wrought iron balconies and lamps, whitewashed and colorful buildings, and small plazas such as the Plaza de La Corrada. We saw two interesting sculptures, one made from corten steel and the other concrete:

"Northeast" by sculptor Joaquin vaquero Turcios, 1994.
"Eulogy of the Horizon" by Basque artist Eduardo Chillida, 1990.

At the peninsula, there is a park with old exercise equipment and an off-leash area for dogs. This is where the concrete sculpture is located.

We walked all around town, went inside the San Pedro Church, and visited the Roman baths (very small compared to those in Bath) next to Campo Valdes.

For lunch we found a nice local restaurant called El Paseo Restaurante located on Paseo de Begoña 8. http://www.engijon.com/restauranteelpaseo/index.htm. The young woman didn’t speak English so when I made my attempt to speak Spanish, she was so happy and would only talk to me! We were looking for a menu del dia – a typical Spanish menu that includes a starter, entrée, dessert and wine, which is always a good deal. From what she motioned and said, the kitchen was not quite ready to serve people. As we were about to leave when she motioned us to sit and proceeded to write down a menu for us. Now that’s service! The starter was a rich fish soup; the entrée was a choice of baked fish or breaded chicken breast stuffed with cheese and deep-fried, each with potatoes, flan or another type of dessert, wine and water. All for 11.50€ each. We even asked for another bottle of wine, which we were willing to pay but she did not charge. She really took good care of us and we all appreciated her efforts despite the language barrier.

More walking after lunch along with some window-shopping and gift shopping. Gijon is a very clean city and I liked walking along the pedestrian streets.

Back on the ship by 3pm, Tony and I sat on the balcony with some of the gang. Later we went to happy hour and then to the 7pm show – an excellent and quite funny ventriloquist (Gareth Oliver, semi-finalist on Britain’s Got Talent), although he was crude on occasion. He sang as well. It’s difficult enough to “talk” via the puppet but I was amazed at his singing.

Dinner: Pheasant terrine with cherries, Caesar salad, veal medallions with wide ribbon pasta.

Friday 4 November 2011, La Coruña Spain

It was a cold morning but warmed up the high 50s. The port was next to the main town area, so no need for any shuttle service. The same group as yesterday (except Carolyn and Mark who had a ships tour to Santiago Compostela) headed out together to tour the city. We walked along the water and beach and up to the tower of Hercules, a lighthouse built by the Romans around the 2nd century. Inside there is an archaeological excavation. Everyone except Tony climbed the stairs to the top for great city and coastline views. Down below is a compass rose along the oceans edge.

We headed towards the city center passing parks and churches. I loved seeing the jamon shops with the many cured Serrano hams hanging from the ceilings. Tony and I bought a chorizo y queso sandwich to eat while walking.

Iglesia de San Jorge is a beautiful baroque-style Church with two towers. Just around the corner is the large Plaza de Maria Pita with the city hall. There are a lot of pedestrian streets with shops and restaurants, including those that advertise pulpo, octopus! Tony, Glenn, Carol and I stopped for a mouth-watering snack of grilled pulpo with paprika, fried calamari, Spanish cheese, and beer and wine at Taberna do Pulpo (calle Franja 11.). It wasn’t cheap (11€ per person) but was excellent and I love pulpo!

Some of the stores were closed (siesta) but we were able to shop in others. One shop was about to close when the gang walked in. It was a costume jewelry shop and everyone bought a little something.

We slowly headed back to the ship. It was our last touch of land before our seven days at sea as we set sail for Miami. We left the port at 2pm. As we sailed from the port, passing the tower of Hercules, dark clouds moved in and it rained in the distance.

After a short nap Tony and I headed to Michael’s club for happy hour. We met Kimberly and Bill. I finally ran into Lee and Mike, the first time since I saw them in London! Yes, it’s a big ship but I still expected to run in to friends sooner than later.

Before dinner, we went to the martini bar. I saw my friend Nastja, the onboard coordinator, who I met last year when I coordinated some events for fellow CCr’s. We chatted for about 15 minutes.

Dinner: Oysters Rockefeller, liver paté, rib eye steak; bottle of Malbec wine.

The evening performer was Amanda Russell, a vocalist. She was fine but not great. Back in our cabin, Louisa, Robin, Glenn, and Carol joined us for drinks.

Saturday 5 November 2011, the First of Seven Sea Days

The café was crowded at breakfast time. I wore the sea bands that Evan had given me a few days earlier and took a Dramamine 1-2 times a day. After this day I didn’t need to wear the sea bands. Thank goodness because they were really tight on my wrist.

The morning lecture was, “Columbus Goes West” and about his first voyage in 1492. Again, a very interesting lecture. The next lecture was with Nigel West, who talked about espionage. He didn’t hold my interest so I left and never went back to his other lectures.

Gareth Oliver performed at 3pm. He was supposed to perform on the ship until we docked in either Vigo or the Azores and move on to perform on another ship. He was ‘stuck’ on board all the way to Miami.

I met Lee and Mike for tea at Café Baccio. Glenn joined us too. Carol was probably at the casino and Tony was reading his book someplace on the ship.

Tony and I met a nice couple in Michaels who were from Chicago.

Dinner: I had the seafood linguini, the only entree on the cruise I didn’t like.

Clocks turned back one hour.

Photo Links:

Gijon: http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/Spain/Gijon-Spain/20295630_hQctZm#1604761769_Lr8Gsn5

La Coruña: http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Travel/Spain/La-Coruna-Spain-2011/20536786_TTbbrm#1626744121_kSRFJFV

Sunday 6 November 2011

My day consisted of exercising on deck for about 45 minutes, followed by breakfast at the Tuscan Grill with friends; the morning lecture on “Magellan: First Time Around;” and doing some journaling on my computer. I also tried to access the internet but the ship’s satellite kept going off line. In fact, I lost lots of minutes and asked the woman in the computer room to credit my account but she never did. At least the minutes were complimentary (elite perk).

The waves weren’t as bad as yesterday but I still took my Dramamine every day.

Carol, Glenn, Marjorie and I participated in the daily 4:30pm trivia game, which was held on deck 3 at the Passport bar. There were so many people, that a lot of us sat on the grand foyer stairs. It was a lot of fun and we did very well.

The entertainer for the evening was Jack Walker, who is from Scotland, and sung beautifully.

Dinner (escargot, caprese salad, shrimp scampi; crème brulee) followed by lots of dancing in the sky lounge and then Quasar till 1am.

Clocks turned back one hour.

Monday 7 November 2011

The rest of the cruise I did a lot of the same things (exercised, breakfast, trivia with Carol, Glenn, and Marjorie; happy hour; daily lectures; reading my book, etc.).

Podium lectures for the rest of the cruise were:

The Legendary Captain Cook
Mutiny on the Bounty
The Mystery of John Franklin’s Lost Expedition
Shackleton: Against all Odds

The seas were rough so the afternoon captain’s club celebration and kitchen galley tour were canceled.

Formal night.

Tony and Glenn enjoyed the whiskey tasting in Michaels. They sampled five or six types of whiskey.

Dinner: Carol and I split an order of sweetbreads. I had the lobster bisque and then the duck l’orange.

Clocks back one hour.

Tuesday 8 November 2011

Carol and I sat poolside in the shade reading our books and shared a plate of food for lunch that Glenn got for us from the Aqua spa café. It was a nice healthy lunch of salmon, sushi, and vegetables.

Approximately 60 CCr’s participated in the afternoon cabin crawl where you get to see select cabins. I like checking out the suites and larger balconies. The couple in the penthouse offered their cabin for viewing. Wow!! What an incredible cabin! It was huge. There were flat screen tvs in almost every room, including the bathroom. A baby grand piano sat in the living room. The balcony was also big and included a jacuzzi. Sweet!

Immediately after the crawl, I hosted a wine tasting party with the assistance of Nastja. Lots of fun! Those that participated brought a bottle of wine from their hometown or bought a bottle in one of the ports. It was held in the sky lounge and Nastja made sure there were plenty of glasses and bottle openers for us. She also had a bartender to assist.

The ship has a few specialty restaurants. My new favorite is Qsine, a funky and fun place for dinner. You order your food on an ipad. We were a party of eight: Carol, Glenn, Carolyn, Mark, Steve, Jeanette, Tony and I. Our waitress told us to pick what we wanted as Steve selected them on the ipad. The waitress looked over the list and said we ordered too much but would help us choose so we had an interesting variety. Some of the things we ate were: Mediterranean lamb chops (excellent!), seviche (a favorite), spring rolls served in ... yes… large metal springs; lava crab; disco shrimp (served in a glass bowl that lit up like a disco light); kobe burgers, sushi lollipops; cupcakes that you decorate with sprinkles and frosting. It’s best to go to Qsine with a minimum of six people but no more than eight. Go hungry and go early. Dinner lasted about 2.5 hours. It was so much fun, and the food was so delicious that we booked it for our next cruise.

My Qsine food photos: http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Cruises/Eclipse-2011-Cruise-Food/20065557_C7NbV8#1582277684_XQWdHXp

Clocks turned back one hour.

Wednesday 9 November 2011

Today was brunch at sea. The entire service in the dining room was chaotic and unorganized. Food items that should have been close together were not and you had to zigzag all over the place. People cut in line – so rude. It was almost not worth doing, although the food was good.

I went to the afternoon Captains club celebration with my friends while Tony relaxed on the balcony with his book.

Happy hour in Michael’s with Carolyn and Mark. Alana (I met her back in 2009) and Anastasia joined us.

Tony and I dined with my friends Deb and Robert and others to celebrate their anniversary in the Tuscan Grill. The food was exceptional, especially the filet mignon. The seafood salad was also very good. The only disappointment was the fried calamari appetizer. Tony and I shared it. It was a small portion, but with the rest of the meal, I was quite full. Deb and Robert were served a chocolate cake.

Thursday 10 November 2011

Tony and I had a very nice surprise – an invitation to dine with Bernhard Stacher who was the hotel director, so we would be dining at the Director’s table, rather than the Captain’s table. Tonight was the last formal night, so we looked forward to a delightful evening.

I liked the afternoon international crew show (one woman had an incredible singing voice, one person break-danced, and another couldn’t sing at all but was so enthusiastic we all loved him). I watched some of the glass blowing show, and later watched the pool volleyball tournament. It was a beautiful day and about 75 degrees.

The second CC party was held in the sky lounge. Mike hosted a gift exchange, which Mike hosted where those that participated brought a $10 gift from their hometown. I brought a book about Maryland ghost stories. Last year it was a Maryland seafood cookbook.

Those that received invitations to dine with Bernhard met at the Cellar Masters at 8:10am. Jonette (captain’s club hostess) offered us a drink before dinner. Bernhard arrived and introduced himself to everyone. At 8:30pm we went to the dining room. There were eight guests plus Bernhard and another officer. We talked to the two couples closest to us throughout the evening. Sitting at a long table makes it difficult to talk to everyone. The photographer took a group photo, which we received two copies at the end of the evening.

Dinner was delicious. I had the steak tartar, filet mignon with a truffle sauce, and an Austria apple strudel type dessert, which was excellent. Red and white wine was served throughout the dinner. The waiters were very professional in their service. At the end of the evening, all of the women received a beautiful red rose, which was a nice touch to the ending of an excellent evening.

After dinner, we went to the theatre to watch the European-style Cirque du Soleil show. I started to doze off. It must have been the wine from dinner.

Clocks turned back one hour.

Friday 11 November 2011

Veterans/Remembrance Day. I was in the theatre just before the lecture started. I could barely hear Dru’s (cruise director) announcement about Veterans day. Standing near me was a staff member so I asked her why announcements were never made in the theatre. She wasn’t sure and walked away. A few minutes later a staff member walked on stage and repeated Dru’s announcement to the audience.

Last day on the ship, so I started my packing.

Several of us attended the Riedel wine workshop, which was held in the afternoon. This was workshop to learn how the shape of a glass affects the taste and experience of wine. We had four types of wine that were served in the Austrian crystal Riedel glasses. There was also a “dummy” glass. As we moved from one to the next, we would sip the wine in the proper glass, then pour it into the ‘dummy’ glass and would taste again. We would even move a red wine to a glass that should be used for a white. It was fascinating and I was clearly convinced that having the right shaped glasses makes for a more enjoyable wine. The workshop was about $15 per person but you could do the more expensive option, which included a set of wine glasses.

Dinner: Escargot, a nice salad with avocado, prime rib, crème brulee.

Glenn, Carol, and I danced in the Quasar club till midnight.

Saturday 12 November 2011

It was time to leave the ship and fly home. I woke up at 4:30pm and couldn’t get back to sleep. I finally got up at 6am and after getting dressed I stood out on the balcony and talked to a few balcony ‘mates’. Two more ships docked so I knew the airport would be very busy.

We went to the main dining room to wait for our grouping to be called, although we should have gone to the elite lounge. Alana came by to say goodbye to us and I wish I had said goodbye to Nastja. We were called about 7:40am and were off the ship 10 minutes later. We found our luggage quickly and went outside.

My friend Judy, who lives in Ft. Lauderdale, picked us up and we spent the morning with her in South Beach having an early lunch. She later took us for a drive before dropping us at the airport.

We had a good flight home and picked up Lucy the next day – she’s always happy to see us.

It was a great cruise with good company, delicious foods, and wonderful ports. I’m looking forward to my next two cruises!

Photo Links:

Food photos

http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Cruises/Eclipse-Food/20100498_CHhNKH#1586351069_CJ7tXsZ

Onboard the ship

http://www.pileggiphotography.com/Cruises/On-Board-the-Eclipse-with/20105260_hbCz7d#1586582442_Jx5jPPt