Tuesday, January 31, 2023

Germany 2000 Journal

 
GERMANYJUNE 2000
 
We're back from Germany and Tony and I really enjoyed our trip. Thanks to everyone who provided us with their travel suggestions! We were pleased with all the hotels we stayed in and the places we visited.  We had warm weather with mostly sunny days.  There were some rainy days or light afternoon showers and we did have a huge thunderstorm on the Rhine where the storm must have been right above us!   In Hohenfurch one early evening there was hail. The exchange rate we received was about 2.02DM to the dollar.
 
6/3/00 (Saturday):  Our trip started at Dulles International airport where we took the 4pm flight on Lufthansa to Frankfurt, Germany.  There were no delays, the flight was smooth and comfortable (enjoyed the Air Bus 340), the food was decent and the flight attendants were friendly. I read mixed reviews of Lufthansa at Fodors.com.  My comments about Lufthansa are positive.  I would definitely fly with them again.
 
6/4/00 (Rhine area):  Flying over Germany, our plane flew right over the Moselle and Rhine river.  I could make out Koblenz at the confluence of both rivers.  Our flight got in one hour early, about 5:15am.  We were tired, but excited to be in Germany.  Getting our luggage and going through customs took no time at all.   We headed to the Avis rental office where we booked a car through Auto Europe.  We requested a mid-size car ($228.00) and our only choice was a station wagon.  I didn't want to have our luggage exposed while we were sightseeing in Heidelberg and driving down the Romantic Road, so we opted for the next car up, a Mercedes E200 (an additional $13.08 per day plus $35.00 for a second driver).  Getting out of the airport was fairly easy and I had my map with us and gave Tony directions while he drove.  We missed the connecting road to get to Assmannshausen on the Rhine near Weisbaden, and it took an extra 30 minutes or so to get back on track. It took a couple of days to get used to the German road signs and my road map.  After that, we had no problem.  Driving around Germany was a breeze.  The drive to Assmannshausen was very nice as we drove along the RhineRiver.  We noticed that the water moves upstream (north) and was moving quite fast.  We could see the boats coming from the north struggle to move south.
 
Since it was still very early to get into our room, we had breakfast at the hotel.  We enjoyed a nice spread of food (see hotel and food description under Hotel Café Post on my hotel page, as well for all other breakfasts we had at the other hotels).  By 9am, there was still no room available for us, so we drove to Rudesheim, about 3 miles away.  We parked, walked around a bit, and headed to the cable car area to take a ride up to the Neiderwald war monument.  The cable cars rise about 25 feet above the Rudesheim vineyards.  The morning weather was perfect for this ride up to the top.  The ride was quiet and peaceful.  At the top, we walked to the war monument.  It is very impressive. The view from above is lovely.  We could see the RhineRiver, Rudesheim, and Bingen across the river.  All the hills in the area are covered with vineyards.
 
Tiredness was starting to sink in with us, so we headed back down and drove back to Assmannshausen.  We parked our car behind the hotel (room for only 3 small cars).  Our room was ready and Frau Hotger escorted us to our room.  We unpacked and took a short nap.  We got up around 2pm and headed out to town (it's a very small town) to enjoy the afternoon and the Assmannshausen Red Wine Festival.  It had been going on for 3 days and we were lucky to join in on the last day.  The festival was held in a small area near the train tracks.  There were about 6 tents where the locals were selling wine, beer, and food. Tables were set up to enjoy the drinks, food, and music.  It was a warm afternoon, so I was glad for the umbrellas.  The red wine is wonderful! Not too dry, yet smooth.  I notice throughout my "wine tasting" that the Germans don't use a lot of oak in their wine making and are not heavy in sulfites.  I enjoyed all the variety of wines I tried, especially their dry Reisling.  We each had a glass of red wine, 2 varieties from the Karl Schon Weingut of Assmannshausen.
 
We walked around the town and window-shopped.  We also took a walk along the RhineRiver enjoying the views.  In the late afternoon, we had drinks at the hotel next door to ours.  People were sitting drinking beer and enjoying ice cream.  That seem to be the norm throughout Germany: dessert around 4pm along with their favorite beer!   We had plans to meet Miriam and her husband Oliver (from Frankfurt) for dinner at our hotel at 6pm, for the first of three fodorites get together I planned. All of us had a wonderful time talking about many subjects, enjoying our drinks, and having a great dinner.  They had made reservations to stay the night at Café Post because of the long drive home and work the next day.  That was sweet of them!  That evening, there were fireworks to end the festivities of the festival; and to end our first day in Germany.  We headed back to our room, I believe around 11pm, and went to bed.
 
6/5/00 (Trier):  We woke up to an overcast morning.  I had plans to drive along the Rhine as a day trip, but decided to switch days, so we headed to Trier.  After breakfast, which was very good and filling, we headed to Rudesheim to take the ferry over to Bingen.  It costs 6DM for a one-way trip.  Ferries cross over all day long about every 20-30 minutes.  It took about an hour, but we got to the MoselleRiver and stopped in Bernkastel-Kues.  The sun had come out, so we enjoyed our walk around this lovely town.  Many of the buildings in the old town area were constructed in the old timber style.  We continued our drive along the MoselleRiver and enjoyed the views.  We arrived in Trier and toured the Roman ruins, such as the amphitheater, the main gate (Porta Negra), and the Roman baths.  In the town center, there was a small market with fruits, vegetables, and herbs.  There were also a couple of cheese stands with a nice selection to choose from.  We had a lot of rain in the afternoon as we headed back to Assmannshausen.  I was glad the rain held up most of the day.  We took the ferry over to Rudesheim from Bingen.  The rain had stopped at that time, thank goodness.  I don't think I would have liked a choppy ride.  Being a Monday, the restaurant we chose was quite empty.  The owner stated that the town is usually busy on the weekends.
 
6/6/00 (Rhine River Drive):  On Tuesday, we drove along the RhineRiver.  We crossed over to Koblenz and back down again to Bingen.  The day started out cloudy, so I was disappointed.  We stopped in a few towns:  Koblenz, St. Goar, Bacharach. Koblenz is large with a nice town center and pedestrian area.  St. Goar is lovely, but our favorite was Bacharach.  Lovely town with old buildings.  We enjoyed pizza for lunch and shopped a little.  Herr Hotger recommended this town.  Good choice.  It would be one town I would like to spend a night in.  The drive along the Rhine was very nice.  There were so many acres and acres of vineyards.  We just could not imagine how it all could be harvested!  The countryside is beautiful.  We saw many castles, but did not stop in any of them. 
 
We returned to Rudesheim via ferry, freshened up, and headed out again to Johannisburg where the famous Riesling wine is produced.  We parked butwe were too late for their last tour.  We walked around the area and enjoyed the views from above. The place has a restaurant, but we noticed it to be a little pricey.  We drove north for a short while to see the area, then headed to Rudesheim.  The place was pretty crowded with tourists enjoying the famous Drosselgasse Street.  We had drinks at a place away from Drosselgasse.  The food looked pretty good, but we picked another place for dinner.  It was called Wienerwald. The food was pretty good and inexpensive.  We later found out that this was a chain restaurant.  There is one in Heidelberg.
 
6/7/00 (Heidelberg, Rothenburg):  Today we headed to Rothenburg via Heidelberg.  It took about an hour to get to Heidelberg and another half hour to find a parking place.  We ended up on the other side of the river in a parking garage. We had a great time in Heidelberg visiting the old town section and the castle on the hill.  Although there is not much left to the castle, we enjoyed walking through it and the park with its great town views.  Heidelberg is a beautiful city.  I would love to spend the night there someday.  The town platz had several fruit and vegetable market stands, as well as a couple of cheese stands.  I visited the cathedral, which was beautiful. After lunch of Turkish kabobs and a gyro at Pasha Grillhaus (just off the platz), we headed to the philosopher's walk to take the well-known photo of Heidelberg.  I was pleased with my photograph but should have walked a little further for a shot directly across the river. 
 
In the afternoon, we headed to Rothenburg, a 2-hour drive. It was easy to get to our hotel: enter from the south gate and the hotel (Hotel Gerberhaus) is about 500 on the right.  We parked on the backside.  Rothenburg was one of my favorite places in Germany and I was glad we spent two nights in town. Our room was charming and comfortable. 
 
We walked around town and found a place for dinner.  We had the place to ourselves and a few other guests until a bus tour of Japanese came in.  Yes, we were in touristy Rothenburg, one of the most visited towns in Germany! 
 
After dinner, we headed to the center in front of the town hall and main platz to take the 8pm Night Watchman's tour.  The walking tour lasted one hour and was very interesting.  We walked to various parts of the town while the night watchman told us wonderful stories.  After the tour, we headed to a place called Eisenhut to meet Bari and her sister and mother for drinks.  This was the second fodorites get together in Germany. We all had a very nice time having a round of drinks and talking about our trips.  We headed back to our hotel for the rest of the evening.
 
6/8/00 (Rothenburg):  We had a nice day in Rothenburg.  We did some shopping, visited the medieval crime museum, and walked along most of the town wall.  For some great views of Rothenburg and the countryside, head to the top of the one tower that’s available for climbing.  The day was beautiful and sunny! 
 
We had a good lunch at Ratsstube right on the platz.  I enjoyed their white asparagus soup andsalad.  The restaurant has a garden terrace, but it was filled when we arrived. 
 
In the early evening we headed outside the wall and joined a wine tasting seminar at a local winery, which started at 7pm.  I had read about it on the internet.  However, I did not realize that the seminar was only in German. We got by, as Tony was able to understand some of it and translate for me.  We sampled eight local wines, all excellent.  We brought home six bottles!  By the time we were done sampling, we were very hungry.  We headed back inside the town walls and found a great restaurant (one of our best meals in Germany) called Reich-Küchenmeister. We dined alfresco with many other diners. After a long day, plus Tony carrying the heavy box of wine, we headed back to our hotel to pack up for the next day. 
 
6/9/00 (Romantic Road, Hohenfurch):  After breakfast and checking out, we packed up our car. The car was partially covered with pigeon poop!  The birds rested in nooks on the wall and well, our car was in their way (and the other cars too!).  We headed out of south gate and to the nearest gas station to wash our car.  After all, we were driving a Mercedes! 
 
Along the Romantic Road we stopped at Dinkelsbuhl and Nordlingen.  Both towns were lovely. Dinkelsbuhl, like Rothenburg, is also a walled city.  There weren't many tourists in these two towns like Rothenburg, but Rothenburg has more atmosphere. 
 
There were lots of photo ops on the Romantic Road, so we stopped a few times to include the town of Donauworth.  There was no time to stop in Augsburg if we wanted to get to our hotel in a timely manner.  There was a traffic accident just south of Landsberg and only 15 minutes away from Hohenfurch.  The police closed part of the road, so we had to drive west on a smaller road, taking us an extra 45 minutes to get back on the main road.
 
We arrived in Hohenfurch and to our hotel, Landgasthof u Café Schonach-Hof, around 5pm.  Wes Fowler, a fellow fodorite, recommended this hotel. We were given room St. Ursula, which faced the back of the hotel.  It was a wonderful large room on the top floor with a balcony.
 
After settling in, we headed downstairs to the beer garden to relax, have a couple of drinks, while I wrote in my journal and wrote postcards.  There were several others in the garden drinking and having dinner.  We were the only Americans there throughout our stay.  We had dinner plans with Claudette and Joe, our third fodorite get together.  They were staying in Garmish and met us about 7pm.  We had a great time and the food was wonderful! 
 
When we first arrived at this hotel, the woman that gave us our room key seemed a little concerned and upset.  I found out later from Tony that she gave him a look of relief when he spoke German to her.  It seems that since she didn't speak English, she thought she was going to have a hard time communicating with us.  She warmed up to us quickly after that and was quite enjoyable.  She even treated us four to pear schnapps for an after dinner drink.
 
6/10/00 (Castles):  This day we enjoyed visiting two castles in Bavaria: Newschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, about 30 minutes from our hotel. The day was mostly sunny, and we enjoyed seeing the German Alps along the way.  We parked our car and headed to the ticket office to buy our tickets.  They were 56DM for both castles for the two of us.  The tickets showed a set time for our visit.  One can visit these castles only with a tour guide.  Ample time is given to visit both places without having to rush from one to the other. 
 
We visited Hohenschwangau first, where Ludwig II lived there from childhood until about 17 years of age.  We decided to take the bus to Newschwanstein and walk down from there.  The bus ride was 7DM.  At the top, we walked to a bridge for a spectacular view of Newschwanstein.  It wasn't the view that one typically sees of this castle in photographs, but the side of it.  It was spectacular anyway.  Each tour lasted about 30 minutes. 
 
When we were done visiting the castle, we headed down by walking.  As we walked along the road, horse-drawn carts were going up and down taking tourists.  The strength of these horses (2 per cart) pulling 6-8 passengers was amazing.  
 
For lunch we drove to Füssen, about a 10-minute drive from the castles. Tony tried his first weiswurste, the white par-boiled sausages. I tasted it and they weren't bad, but I wouldn't order it myself, as they don't look appetizing. 
 
On the way home, we visited Weiskirche, which Wes Fowler recommended. It was beautiful in Rococo style.  What was interesting was when we returned to the hotel and I read about the church in my guide book, we discovered the domed painted ceiling was actually a flat ceiling!  Truly amazing!  We wanted to return to the church the next day to study the ceiling, but we didn't have the time. 
 
Another great dinner at the hotel. Actually, Tony and I switched our orders from the previous night, as they were so good.
 
6/11/00 (Bavaria Drive):  After our usual German breakfast, we headed out for a day trip visiting Oberammergau, Garmish, and Mittenwald. 
 
Oberammergau was quiet as most of the townspeople and tourists were in the theatre rehearsing for the passion play, which is performed once every 10 years.  The town is lovely.  I imagine when the play is stopped for their daily lunch the town is buzzing with activity. 
 
We shopped a little but wanted to do some other shopping in Mittenwald.  We drove around Garmish, but didn't get out of our car.  We enjoyed the drive taking in the scenery.   Mittenwald is a lovely town!  We walked around, but the stores were closed with the exception of the souvenir stores!  It was a Sunday.  We found a nice place for lunch at the Post Hotel, one of the places recommended in my Day Trips Germany book.  Good choice!   We sat in the garden area and had a great view of the cable car, which goes to the top of the mountain.  We watched the cable cars go up and half way up the cable cars look like a dot on the mountain.  Tony tried to get me to go up, but I didn't want to.  I would have gotten great photographs of the area, but it had started to rain. 
 
On the way back to Hohenfurch, we stopped in Schongau, which is very near Hohenfurch.  The town was also closed down and just a few restaurants were open.  We had pizza for dinner at Café Roma, which was pretty good, but I would have preferred more sauce on the pizza.  Back at our hotel in Hohenfurch, we had a round of drinks before turning in.
 
6/12/00 (Munich):  Off to Munich!  I was looking forward to being in a big city.  It took about 45 minutes to get to Munich, and then we got lost in the city!  We had to stop and ask for directions.  We were way off course.  We finally made it to our hotel, Hotel Blauer bock near the Viktualienmarkt (one of the best markets I've seen).  There is an empty parking space for hotel guests to unload their car.  We parked our car in their garage for 10DM. 
 
Our room was not ready, so we left our luggage in the car and headed out to the DeutschesMuseum.  Being a Monday, almost all sights are closed with the exception of this science and technology museum.  Tony was especially excited because there was supposed to be a large aviation museum.  It turned out that a portion of the aviation museum was outside the city limits at an annex.  The museum had a nice display of planes, but Tony was disappointed.
 
After our visit, we headed to the town center.  The Marienplatz was filled with people, beer and food stands, tables, chairs, and a music stage, as the city foundation festival was in full swing.  It had started on the 10th of June and this was the last day of the festival. It was a fun afternoon watching all the activity going on, as it was very lively.  After lunch of beer and brotwurst, we headed to our hotel to unpack and do a little wash.  We had asked for a room on the quite side because the front street was under construction.  We paid an extra 10DM a night for this "upgrade."  Later we walked around town and headed back to the Marienplatz where I enjoyed a glass of red wine while Tony had a beer.  For dinner, we dined at Donsil, just off the Mairenplatz.  The food was pretty good and we sat outside to enjoy the festival that was still going on.  After dinner we took a walk to find the Hofbrahaus.  Along the way, we had stopped to see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We got to the Hofbrahaus and took a peek inside.  It was packed with tourists and quite noisy, so we left. We really didn't want to have a beer there, but I wanted to see the place.
 
6/13/00 (Bertchesgaden, Munich): We were up early and out by 9am to head to Bertchesgaden (via A8 autobahn).  It was a very hazy day.  There were many trucks and traffic coming into the Munich area.  We drove near the mountains.  The drive from A8 to Bertchesgaden was windy, but very nice (rte B20).  We parked our car in a garage and headed to the train station to catch the bus to the Eagle's Nest (EN).  We had to transfer to another bus at Obersalzburg to get to the very top.  The second bus ride was very windy and steep. Private cars are not allowed up this portion of the road and we could see why.  The road is only 13 feet wide and as I said, very windy. There is only one hairpin curve in the road.  I certainly wouldn't want to make that turn!  Busses coming down the mountain had to pull over to a certain spot to let the busses go up the mountain.  It's very well organized and we were told there has never been an accident.  I'm sure those busses are inspected quite frequently, especially the brakes! It was as thrilling (or scary) a ride like the Amalfi coast, but much higher!
 
Once at our destination, we still had to get to the EN.  We walked inside the mountain in a tunnel to get to a large elevator.  We went up 407 feet in 41 seconds.  The interior was made of brass with mirrors because Hitler was claustrophobic. Apparently he went up to the EN only a handful of times.  Because of the hazy day, we did not have great views of the area.  We could see Salzburg, but it wasn't worth taking photographs. While up there, we ran into a VMI graduate from class of 1960 (Tony graduated from there in 1978). We enjoyed great conversation with Alan and his wife Glenda.  We all took the bus back (one must schedule a return time) to Obersalzburg.  From there, Alan offered us a ride and on the way down, he stopped to show us Hitler's house, Berghof.  Only the foundation remains.  I took a few pieces of the foundation.  It was already raining, so we really couldn't walk around the area. We headed back to Bertchesgaden and had lunch together.  We had a nice time with them before heading back to Munich, while they headed to Salzburg.
 
Back in Munich, we went to the train station to return our car.  It took almost an hour to find the place.  Avis has their car return place in the garage of a hotel.  There were no Avis signs on the street at all!  I had to drop off Tony at the station to ask where to park the car.  What a hassle. Our evening ended with drinks at the beer garden in the Viktualienmarkt, a Greek dinner next to our hotel (Kyri's), and a walk around town.
 
6/14/00 (Dachau, Munich): On this day, we headed to Dachau via the S-Bahn.  There is a S/U-Bahn stop at the Marienplatz.  I really didn't want to go, but I also didn't want to miss the opportunity to visit the place.  It was very interesting, but we both expected to see more (based on the exhibits we have seen at the Holocaust museum in WashingtonDC).  We saw a film, in English, at 11:30, which gave the history of the place.  As we headed back to Munich, Tony got off at one of the stops to head out to the aviation museum annex, while I went back to the Marienplatz area to shop and have lunch.  We met later around 6pm at the Viktualienmarkt and had drinks. All the tables and chairs were filled. It was a very nice afternoon. For dinner, we ate next to our hotel at Manila's, a Filipino restaurant. This is the restaurant that is attached to our hotel where we had our breakfast. For dessert, we had ice cream as we walked around town.
 
6/15/00 (Munich): This was our last full day in Germany, so we spent it visiting sights in the area.  It was a very cloudy day and it rained on and off throughout the day.  We headed to St. Peter's to climb the stairs (over 300) to see Munich from above. It wasn't raining at the time we were at the top.  Next we headed to the Residence and its museum.  We visited the treasury - fabulous crowns, jewels, etc.  We also visited the Residence and saw many rooms where royalty once lived.  One part of the museum had photographs showing how the Residence was bombed and the restoration process.
 
For lunch we had decided to have a picnic by purchasing a variety of food at the Viktualienmarkt.  We bought bread, camembert, salami, chilled shrimp in an olive oil and garlic dressing, marinated eggplant, marinated mushrooms, and delicious octopus!  There were many other delicious foods to choose from.  We bought beer and my white Reisling and ate at the tables at the beer garden.  We had a delicious lunch!  I wish we had more days to do this. An older German couple next to us kept eyeing our meal.  A few minutes later, he went off and returned with a container of marinate mushrooms and bread.  We smiled at each other.  We went back to our room after lunch to drop off the extra cheese and bread (it was cheaper to buy a round of cheese rather than a portion of one).  We packed most of our luggage to get ready to leave.  I was glad to bring my bubble wrap and Tony had purchased packaging tape.  We used some of our socks and underwear to pad the bottles we were bringing home.
 
We headed out again and did some shopping.  We had been pricing out the German Hinckel knives and decided to buy a set.  We bought a butcher block set and a set of eight steak knives.  We felt we got a good price, better than in the US.  We also did some last minute gift shopping (a few Christmas ornaments and linens).  I also purchased (as I usually do on my trips) a gold pendant of a beer stein.  The top opens and the front has the Munich emblem.  We walked around a little more, but our feet were really hurting (too many stairs and lots of walking at the Residence). 
 
We dropped off our purchases at the hotel and headed to Donsil for drinks.  I wanted to try someplace new for dinner, but a lot of the places were crowded.  We decided to dine at Donsil.  That place was also crowded, but the waitress asked if we'd mind sharing a table with three others.  Fine with us.  They were young students getting ready to enter college.  We had a nice time chatting with them.  They spoke very good English.  They were recently new to Munich and were friends from school.  We bought their dinner, which they were quite surprised, but appreciative.  For the five of us, we paid $65. After we left, I wanted to have a last round of drinks at a bar.  We found one, which had a Harley Davidson on display.  It was a fun place with good music and people enjoying themselves.  We ended up having two rounds of drinks and having a huge hangover the next day (we did have a few at dinner). I don't remember the place, but know exactly where it is!  We'll have to go there when we return to Munich someday.
 
6/16/00:  Time to head home!  After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel about 8:3am and headed to the airport with our luggage on the S-Bahn.  The ride took 40 minutes to get to the airport.  It took a while to find the tax refund office - we swear they make it hard for people to find. No signs, no maps showing the refund office. They must hope that people will just give up and not get their tax back.  We got it, finally, in cash. 
 
Our flight left on time and we got home safely. The flight attendants treated us well.  We were given a bottle of champagne by the flight attendants.  Tony had talked with them for about half an hour.  That was a nice treat.  We also were asked if we wanted any of the small liquor bottles so they wouldn't have to inventory them. We said sure and were given about 25 of them! 
 
Germany was wonderful!  The countryside is beautiful and there are many wonderful places to visit. I know we will return to Germany!
 
Monica

Greece May 2001 Journal

GREECE May 2001
 
17 May 2001:  Tony and I returned from Greece on Monday and we had a great time!  Tony had originally wanted to visit both Greece and Turkey, but I like to visit one country at a time.  There is so much to see and do and having only 2 weeks, I prefer to concentrate on one country.
 
We visited Greece back in 1993.  We stayed in Athens and after a few days visiting the archeological museum, acropolis and other sights, we went to Delphi and Cape Sounio on day trips, as well as a one day, 3-island cruise to Poros, Aegina, and Hydra.  This trip, we wanted to visit some of the Greek islands.  It was a difficult choice: so many islands, so little time!  I had considered Crete, but Crete can be a vacation in itself!  We'll safe Crete for a future trip, maybe with a side trip to Santorini.
 
Because the boat and ferry schedules for the low season we not available at time of my planning, I decided to make hotel reservations for our arrival in Athens and departure from Athens.  After sorting through lots of information and help from other travelers from Fodors.com, we decided to fly directly to Santorini and save Athens for the end of our trip.  So, I made hotel reservations at Enigma Apartments in Santorini and Hotel Attalos in Athens.  The rest we decided to play it by ear.  I had a list of hotels for the islands of Naxos, Paros, and Mykonos.  From Mykonos,  I wanted to visit Delos, but that too would be decided on once we got to the islands and the boat schedules came out.  I was informed that boats do not go to Mykonos on a daily basis from Naxos (at least in the spring time).  So, with our 2 hotel reservations, list of hotels, we were set to go. 
 
1 May 2001:  Our day of travel is always an exciting and exhausting day: packing, closing up the house, last minute chores, and dropping off Lucy (our new puppy) at Dawn's house the night before.  We had to fly to JFK from Reagan National, and then taxi over to JFK.  Our flight on Olympic Airlines was at 5:45pm.  The taxi cost us $25, which was about the same price as taking the shuttle bus.  The flight over was fine.  Food was average.  We didn't care for the service by the flight attendants.  Once they serve the food, they disappeared.  We couldn't even get another glass of wine.  We spent the evening watching a couple of movies, and then tried to sleep.  Actually, Tony can sleep anywhere!
 
2 May 2001:  We arrived at the new airport in Athens.  It took about 10 minutes for the plane to taxi to its gate.  Then the flight attendant forgot to press a button to release the door, so that was another 10 minutes or so waiting to get off the plane.  We were hoping to catch the 11:20am flight to Santorini as we were booked on the 3pm flight.  No such luck!  We waited almost 4 hours in the airport.  I was very tired. 
 
The new airport was pretty nice, but the seats in the waiting areas are terrible!  They were so uncomfortable.  I found an ATM machine and took out some money.  I decided to wait to get my Greek money until I got to Athens instead of getting some from my bank.  Apparently, the exchange rate in the U.S. is pretty bad as only a certain amount is allowed out of the country.  The airport building is very long.  We had to walk from one end to practically the other end to catch the local flight. 
 
We flew to Santorini on a small ATR, which carries about 50 passengers.  The flight was about 50 minutes long.  We were on the right side and could see Oia and Fira prior to landing.  A few minutes before landing, the flight attendant stated not to take any photographs.  There were military planes near the airport.  Tony said to me, "They probably don't want people to know that they are using out of date equipment!"
 
We had to take a shuttle bus to the terminal (we could have walked!), which was just a small building with one luggage belt.  It was ridiculous!  We could have picked up our luggage at the airplane, but I guess they wanted us to feel like we were at a big airport.
 
Our hotel arranged for a taxi to pick us up.  Outside the building, our drive held up the hotel sign, "Enigma Apartments."  I wanted a hotel on the caldera for its wonderful view.  We stayed at the Enigma Apartments.  Breakfast was included in the cost of the room (37.000DR).   We had a great view of the caldera and all the buildings hanging on the cliff.  To the right of us, we were next to Hotel Kavalari and Hotel Loucas, two other hotel choices.  Our room was very nice.  There are 8 apartments with balcony, kitchen, bath, and living room.  The building is set into the cliff.  Between the living room and kitchen was an arched wall.  (See hotel section for photos of this and the other hotels).  On our balcony, we had a small table, 2 chairs and an umbrella to use.  To actually sit out and view the other buildings, we had to move our chairs up towards the front as there were was a privacy wall between the apartments.  We were greeted by Ms. Heidi, who managed the place.  She told us there was a bottle of wine in the room for us, as well as a large bottle of water.  It was a nice treat to start our vacation.
 
We unpacked our bags while sipping on the wine.  Every few minutes I would walk outside and take in the view of Fira.  It was lovely.  I think it was one of my favorite spots in Greece.  White washed buildings hanging on the side of this cliff, donkeys climbing the stairs and walkway with goods or tourists, cats wandering the buildings, and hearing music in the distance. 
 
While sitting outside, we met one of our "neighbors" who also were on our flight from Athens.  We chatted with Lisa and Simon, who came from Australia to attend a wedding.  Their friend from South Africa was marrying a Greek woman from Santorini.  They actually were already married, but were in Santorini to have the traditional Greek wedding.  Lisa had found a grocery store nearby, so I had her show me the way so I could purchase some beer for Tony, another bottle of wine and some snacks.  It was nice having the store nearby.  There were lots of goodies to purchase: local wine, cheese, olives, meats, fresh baked bread and many other items.  I even picked up a bottle of ouzo. 
 
Tony and I were hungry and ready to set out to explore Fira and find a place for dinner.  It is a touristy town filled with souvenir shops and many, many, many jewelry shops.  I was amazed and overwhelmed at the beautiful and bountiful collection of gold, diamonds, Greek designs, contemporary designs, etc.  I had read that Santorini has the best jewelry, although a little more expensive than Athens.  We walked along the "main" street and found a place to eat: The Flame of the Volcano.  We enjoyed the food and views of Fira as we dined outside.  Our first day in Greece and we were tired, so we headed back to the room for a drink on the balcony, then to bed.
 
3 May 2001:  Sleeping up in the loft was nice.  Our bed was comfortable.  At night,  had to turn on the lights to go down stairs to the bathroom.  As I mentioned, there is no railing to hold on to and the steps are steep.  We got up around 8:30 and got ready for our first full day in Santorini.  Out on the balcony was a small young cat.  She just sat there, probably waiting for some food.  We saw a lot of cats in Santorini wandering around the area.  We were surprised at the number of stray cats and dogs.  Some day soon, the Greek authorities are going to have to put in place animal control laws.  There were just too many wandering around.  I wrote in my journal while Tony got dressed.  I met our "neighbors" a couple from Canada.  They had stayed the previous night at Hotel Panorama, but said it was terrible.  After inspecting a couple of rooms at Enigma, they settled on the room next to us.
 
The hotel serves breakfast at their outdoor café.  It was nice to sit outside and enjoy the view while eating.  We watched ships, ferries, and sail boats come and go all day long.  Passengers from cruise ships arrived via tenders as the ships were docked off shore.  The main port is a few miles south of Fira.  This day, we visited the Boutari winery.  We took the local bus there, which was about a 20-minute ride after making several stops along the way.  The tour group was small, just Tony and me!  A young woman gave us the tour, explaining their wine making process.  We also saw a film, then sampled 6 different wines.  Most were pretty good, and we bought a couple of bottles.  It was very interesting to see the vineyards as the vines were shaped into wreathes and sitting very low to the ground.  Because Santorini has very high winds in the summer time, the vines are kept low to the ground so that the winds do not destroy them. 
 
We had to wait about 45 minutes for our local bus back to Fira.  Thank goodness it was a nice day.  I certainly wouldn't like to wait in the hot summer heat.  Back in Fira, we headed back to our room.  On the way, we picked up a couple of gyro's at Lucky's - the best gyro's in all of Greece!  It's a small place across the street and up from the main bus stop.  We took the gyro's to our room and had lunch on our balcony.  These gyro's were the best we had (although Tony likes the ones at the central market in Athens better because of the added green peppers)!  They were only 400DR, just over a dollar.  And they were filling and delicious.  For the afternoon, we wandered around Fira, did a little shopping, and then took a walk to Firastefani, which was the next little town up and about ½ mile away.  We walked along the caldera on narrow walkways and steps.  I couldn't imagine taking this walk in the summer heat and with the summer crowds of people.  We stopped to see the Hotel Sun Rocks.  It was one of my choices, but decided to stay in Fira.  We were glad.  Firastefani is too far a walk to have to go back and forth, especially since we planned to use bus transportation.  This hotel was very nice and we were shown the honeymoon suite.  Lovely canopy bed, living room area, and even a fax machine!  I guess some people just can't get away from their jobs.  How sad. 
 
We noticed that many of the round domes of the churches were painted in an off white color, unlike the many shown in blue in the postcards.  There was one postcard of a blue domed church with church bells and the caldera bay behind it.  I asked a woman in a little grocery store where I could find this church.  "Down the street and to the right."  Well, down the street and to the right meant over the cliff!  After walking around the area, we saw the church bells.  We had to backtrack and eventually found the spot where photographers take this famous photo.  (See photo under the Santorini photo section).  It's not a good photo.  The sky was very hazy and the dome had been re-painted. 
 
Our challenge to find this church was done and we were ready to take a break.  We headed back to our room, had drinks, and chatted with Lisa and Simon.  For dinner, we dined at Nikolas, a very good restaurant and very inexpensive.  There are no menus, but a large blackboard at the back of the room listing their limited, but delicious, menu.  The place was filled of lots of hungry diners.  We'd definitely dine here again.   
 
4 May 2001:  The cat was outside on our balcony again this morning.  I decided to name her Santo, short for Santorini.  She was cute, but kept her distance.  This day we took the local bus to Ancient Akrotiri.  I had read that it was a very interesting place, and even saw a travel show on it.  We got there after a 30 minute or so bus ride.  After paying to get in, we walked through the ruins.  It took us only 10 minutes to see "it all!"  We were so disappointed.  It seemed that the workers were busy working on replacing the old roof that was over the ancient site, about 2 acres.  Also, a lot of the area was roped or blocked off from tourists.  So, we didn't see much, not even any painted walls.  I did get a couple shots of the Greek vases.  After this short visit, we had to wait an hour for the next bus to arrive.  We walked down to the water/beach area.  There were a couple of restaurants there.  We walked around to pass the time.  Another day of waiting for the bus.  The next time we'll rent a car.  Back in Fira, we had lunch at our hotel: Gyro's from Lucky's and some wine and beer, which we purchased at the nearby grocery store.  Yummy lunch! 
 
In the afternoon, we decided to head to Oia, but did a little shopping beforehand. We purchased our boat tickets for Naxos.  Then I started to window shop...again.  Well, we never made it to Oia as "I shopped until Tony dropped."  The jewelry stores in Fira were fabulous!  There were many stores with many, many different types of jewelry.  I was quite overwhelmed.  I had been window shopping the previous 2 afternoons, but in the ended decided upon a couple of diamond and emerald pieces.  I guess we could have gone to Oia in the evening, but we didn't feel like catching a bus there and having to 'wait' again.  We relaxed on our balcony for a while  - love the views! - before heading out to dinner at Zafora's.  It's on the main street up from the cable car.  We enjoyed a delicious meal as we watched the sun set.  After our evening walk, we headed back to our room to have an after dinner drink on the balcony. 
 
5 May 2001:  We got up around 8:30am and had our breakfast up at the cafe.  We chatted with Lisa and Simon who were also having their breakfast.  We were off to Naxos.  As the morning progressed, so did the winds.  We went back to our room to pack our bags, and since we had some time, we shopped for a few items before leaving.  Ms. Heidi arranged for a taxi to pick us up.  One of the young men working at the hotel carried our luggage to the taxi "stand."  The winds were really blowing and dust/dirt got into my eyes, bothering them as I wear contact lenses.  The ride to the port took only 15 minutes.  By then, the winds were really blowing!  The dust, sand, dirt was flying every where!  We headed for shelter at one of the port restaurants to wait for our boat.  We were worried the boat wouldn't arrive or depart.  The winds were blowing the bay water, which was quite choppy.  We sat and had "coke lites" before the boat arrived.  We got on just as it started to rain.  What a very nice boat!  It's pretty new too.  Comfortable seats (assigned seats), large windows to see outside, a cafe, etc.  The older couple that sat next to us were very friendly.  They were with a large tour group heading home.
 
We arrived in Naxos about an hour and a half later.  It had stopped raining, but was still overcast with dark clouds.  This was our first island that we arrived in without hotel reservations.  Tony saw a sign for the Naxos Tourist Office directly across from the port, which is owned and operated by Ms. Kitini.  He remembered the name from our Frommer's guidebook.  I had my list of hotels, which Ms. Kitini managed two that were on the list: Hotel Apollon and Hotel Chateau Zevgoli.  I wanted to stay in C.Z., which is in the center of town, but there was a room available for just 2 days.  We were staying for three nights and didn't want to have to pack our bags and move to another room or hotel.  Ms. Kitini drove us to Hotel Apollon, a few blocks away.  We liked the hotel very much and our room was quite comfortable.  We had a corner room with a balcony wrapped around two sides.  The windows had shutters so we could sleep soundly in a dark room.
 
After unpacking, we headed into town to have lunch.  We shared a sandwich and a meze platter, which was very good.  It was a hugh meal and could have had just one or the other. Naxos town is lovely.  There are lots of whitewashed buildings along small streets.  Some flowers were in bloom, but not too many.  Since it was the late afternoon, many of the shops and restaurants were closed.  Siesta time.  We sat at the cafe for a while enjoying the afternoon and just relaxing.  We took a walk along the port and did a little window shopping.  At least it wasn't raining.  Along the port there is a restaurant that serves delicious fresh octopus as well as calamari and cuttlefish.  We saw octopus hanging out to dry on lines and wood stands.  It looked delicious! 
 
In the evening we headed out to have pizza for dinner.  It was windy, so we had our jackets with us.  Tony was in the mood for pizza, so we ate at Restaurant Kellari, on the water front.  Very good pizza (brick oven).  The man who was managing the place (he's from Albania)  was very nice and chatted with us between serving other customers.  He even treated us to a carafe of wine, as well as dessert and a shot of ouzo!  Prior to getting back to our hotel, we walked round the town. 
 
6 May 2001:  Our morning started with breakfast in the hotel's breakfast room.  We enjoyed coffee, tea, juice, soft boiled eggs, yogurt, and delicious fresh baked bread.  We were really impressed with the breads in Greece.  Our morning was spent visiting the archeological museum as well as the Venetian home inside the kastro.   The museum was very small.  We should have purchased the museum book.  Not many of the artifacts had descriptions about them.  There were lots of vases, statues, sculptures.  At the Venetian home, there was a tour guide (from South Africa) who gave us a very interesting tour.  There were about 10 others in the group.  One can join in the tour at anytime as the tour guide continues her tour all day long.  The home had many old paintings, a piano, and portraits of the owners of the home.  She showed us the cellar, some of the rooms, one which had an excape door in the floor.  After our visits, we headed to the port area to find us some gyros for lunch.  We sat outside at a small restaurant which served only gyros. Although they were good, they certainly were not as good as at Lucky's in Fira! 
 
After lunch, we headed to a travel agency to inquire about boats to Paros or Mykonos.  According to the schedules for the day we wanted to travel, Mykonos was out of the question.  So, it was Paros for our next island.  We stopped by to see Ms. Kitini, who owns the Naxos Tourist Office.  She suggested to "get out of town" and take the local bus to Filoti.  The bus was leaving in 5 minutes across the street.  Okay, why not!  Well, the bus left at 1:30pm and we arrived in Filoti at 2pm.  There was NOTHING to see!  It seemed everyone was in their homes enjoying their siesta.  Most stores were closed.  And we were stuck there until the 5:30pm bus arrived.  Another day of waiting for the bus.  We walked along the streets, but after a while we went to a small cafe to warm up from the cold air.  It was an overcast day and quite cool.  We had a light snack and some white wine.  It tasted similar to a port wine.  We walked around a little more, but it was just too cold for me.  We found a cafe with a bunch of Greek men sitting and drinking their coffee and playing backgammon.  We had some hot tea and coffee to keep us warm.  Our bus arrived at 5:30pm and we were happy to be heading back to Naxos town!  It was a long day and we hated to waste time by waiting for the bus. 
 
Back in our hotel room, we read our books that we brought.  For dinner, we dined at the place that had the hanging octopus (KAYE OUZERI TO LIMANAKI, which is just to the left of the Grotta Tours office).  It was absolutely delicious!  We enjoyed grilled octopus as well as grilled calamari along with some local white wine.  Most of the diners were locals, which is always a good sign.  We chatted with one couple at the next table who were visiting from Paros. They own a home in Paros and go there every year for 2-3 months.  How nice!  They were on Naxos for a few days visit.  Back in our room again, we had some ouzo, then went to bed.
 
7 May 2001: We rented a car and drove around the island.  We paid 6.000Dr (about $16) for the car plus 3.000 ($8) for the gas.  Pretty cheap!  It was a tiny car, but that's all we needed for the small streets in town and narrow roads on the island.  Naxos is very mountainous and there were a lot of hair pin curves.  Some of these curves do not have guard rails!  Tony knew I was uncomfortable around these curves, so he drove slowly.  It was amazing to see the locals drive right by us without worrying about the curves or oncoming cars.  It reminded me of the Italian drivers.  We saw villages along the hillsides, goats in the middle of the road, as well as donkeys.  The day was beautiful with blue skies, white clouds, and a cool breeze.  It was a much nicer day than the day before.  During our travels, we stopped at a very old church, a Hellenic tower being restored and saw two Kouros.  We also visited the town of Apirathos.  The town sits along the side of the mountain.  We walked around the town, which was lovely.  We stopped and had lunch at a small restaurant called O Platanos.  We sat outside to enjoy the sun.  One couple stopped to ask about our meal.  "Delicious!"  We talked with Mike and Camille, from NC, for a while sharing our travel adventures.  They were staying about 2-3 miles outside Naxos town.  We swapped restaurant suggestions: We gave them our restaurant recommendations for Santorini and they gave their suggestions for Paros and Athens
 
We continued on our drive around the island where we saw the second Kouros near the beach town of Apolonas.  More curvy roads!  The map that was provided to us at the car rental agency was not accurate.  What looks like fairly straight roads or slightly curvy roads were actually very curvy/hairpin curve roads!  Also, what seems to be many miles between one point and the next is actually short distances.  Drivers beware.  We got back to Naxos town around 5pm, so we dropped off the car.  We were allowed to keep the car until the next morning, but there was no point.  We walked into town and purchased our boat tickets for Paros the next day.  Along the way, we ran into Mike and Camille.  They were in town for the rest of the evening.  We talked for a few minutes with them, then headed our separate ways.  I wanted to take some photographs of the boats in the port as well as the Portara.  After, we headed back to our room to relax, have a little wine, and do some reading.
 
For dinner, we headed straight back to the restaurant KAYE OUZERI TO LIMANAKI.  As we were enjoying the first dish of octopus, tzatziki and caraffe of wine, Mike and Camille showed up.  They joined us for dinner, who also loved every bite.  We ended up having 3 carafes of wine, the tzatziki, and 3 different dishes: the octopus, the calamari, and a combination plate of calamari and cuttle fish.  For our portion, we paid $26.50.  It was worth every penny.  After dinner, we headed to a bakery/pastry shop with Mike and Camille and joined their friends for dessert.  Tony and I enjoyed tiramisu.  I know, it's not baklava, but it was good!  We headed back to our room as I was tired and had a little too much wine to drink.  We had a really great time with Mike and Camille. 
 
8 May 2001: We're off to Paros.  Our boat was scheduled to leave at 12:15pm.  We got up, showered, had breakfast, then packed our bags. We had plenty of time, so we headed to town with our luggage to the Naxos Tourist Office.  We paid our hotel bill, got my passport back, and left our luggage there for a couple of hours.  When Ms. Kitini asked me how much she quoted me for the room, I said 18.000DR.  Well, she charged my credit card 18.000DR.  I guess she didn't remember we were there for three nights, so I had her charge against my Visa for the other two nights.  If I hadn't caught the error, that would have been a really cheap stay.  We walked around the port area and I picked up a couple of souvenirs.  Around 10:30am, we noticed one boat leaving.  It was the Express Athina.  Our boat!  We quickly ran into a travel agency and the woman behind the counter said the boat would be back in time for the 12:15 schedule, or close to that time.  I had panicked because the next boat to Paros was at 3pm and I didn't want to wait that long.  This boat was running late.  More walking around, then we went to get our luggage and wait at the port so we wouldn't miss our boat.  While waiting at the port, we ran into the Canadian couple we met in Santorini, who stayed at the apartment next door to us at Enigma Apartments.  They said we were lucky that we left Santorini when we did.  The weather had gotten worse and boats were not able to arrive/depart for 2 days.  They said the winds were incredible.  We were lucky. 
 
Our boat arrived and after the passengers got off, we all got on.  It departed at 12:30pm.  The boat ride took 1 hour to get to Paros.  Upon arrival in Paros, we asked a police officer where to find Hotel Asterias.  Ms. Kitini recommended the hotel and it was one of my choices from my research.  The hotel is located about 400 meters north of the port, along the main street.  There were plenty of rooms available, in fact all of them!  We were the only guests there until the day we left Paros, when they were expecting a group of travelers.  Our room was very plain, but fine for us.  We unpacked our bags, then headed out to find a place for lunch.  As usual, at this time of day, many places were closed.  In the center of the town, we found a restaurant (Distrato), which served salads, sandwiches, crepes, etc.  We had a good lunch and chatted with the owner.  We stayed for a while relaxing under the umbrellas.  We walked around town for a while.  We stopped at a grocery store to pick up a bag of pistachio nuts.  They were so inexpensive, but I didn't think to purchase a few bags to bring home.  We also picked up a 5 liter container of local white wine.  Talk about cheap! It was only $4.20 for the whole container!  We headed to our room.  Since most places were still closed, we decided to have our own siesta.  Back in our room, we sat on our balcony while sipping on our very inexpensive white wine and reading our books.
 
In the evening, we walked around town to find a restaurant for dinner.  The man at the cafe at lunchtime recommended Porphyra's, which was also listed in the Frommer's guidebook.  As we walked to the restaurant, Tony noticed the power lines sparking.  He said, "it's not supposed to do that."  Then about 5 minutes later, the electricity went out along the whole port area.  Well, we ended up dining at Porphyra's by candlelight.  We enjoyed our meal, including having shark for the first time.  It was delicious.  We also had fried mullet and a couple of appetizers.  We headed back to our room as Tony's knee was hurting him.  No evening walk this night.
 
9 May 2001: We didn't sleep well at all last night.  There were mosquitos in our room. Even though we put lotion on our arms and face, they still hung around.  We also had the doors open for the fresh, cool air (the room was warm from the afternoon sun), but that brought in more mosquitoes and the noise from the street in front of the hotel.  We asked the owner to provide us the remote control for the A/C for the next two nights.  She offered to spray our room as well.  After breakfast, we rented a car to drive around the island.  We drove along and stopped at a couple of beaches and towns.  The town of Lefkes was very nice.  We had lunch in Naoussa.  We dined outside with several locals enjoying their afternoon drinks.  Some of them even sang some songs.  I'm glad we stayed in town instead of Naoussa.  Naoussa was very nice, but more of a resort area.  Tony got tired of driving because the car didn't have power steering or power breaks and after all the curves in the road, well, you can imagine.  The beaches on Paros were very nice and clean.  The water was so pretty with the blues and greens.  The island was a lot smaller than Naxos, so we got back to town fairly early.  We went to our room to get our bathing suits, and headed to Kolimbithres beach, near Naoussa.  The beach area was small.  The rock formations were very interesting.  We laid out for just an hour because the sun was very bright and warm.  There was only one other couple on the beach and a few in the water.
 
Back in town, we dropped off the car, showered, and relaxed in our room.  I wrote in my journal while Tony took a nap.  For dinner, we enjoyed a delicious meal at small restaurant near the cathedral.  I had a lamb dish while Tony had moussaka.  The only distraction at the place were three young college women.  Only one was doing all the talking and I swear she could have been on the set of Road Rules or The Real World.  All she talked about (actually whined the whole time) was about her boyfriend.  I did overhear her say 'Real World' at one point  and I wondered if they were actually from that ridiculous show.  The other two girls just sat and listened.  They looked bored.  We were so glad when they left.  I was ready to get up and tell them to grow up!  After dinner, we walked around and I bought some pistachio ice cream for dessert. 
 
10 May 2001: This day was a very lazy day.  We knew there wouldn't be a whole lot to see in town.  We skipped breakfast and headed out for day.  We visited the Church museum, which was very interesting.  In the courtyard, church bells hung in the branches of a large tree.  We found a pastry shop and purchased a few goodies.  A very rich, sweet breakfast.  We walked along the small streets while I took some photographs.   We headed to the archeological museum, which was much larger than the one on Naxos.  Much of the artifacts were the same: vases, sculptures, statues, gold pieces, and fragments of other types of pottery.  For lunch, we just had some gyros.  They were good, but again, not as good as at Lucky's in Fira.  We sat at the outdoor cafe watching people as they headed to the port to take their boats to some new destination.  In the afternoon, I window shopped and purchased a couple of small items.  We also purchased our boat tickets for Piraeus the next day.  We headed back to our room to relax on the balcony.  We had a nice view of the bay and beach area.  We decided to sit in the hotel's outdoor cafe.  It was just the two of us sipping on some of our wine and munching on pistachio nuts.  It was a cool day with the winds blowing gently.  We took a nap for a while, just like the Greeks.  Things do shut down in the afternoon from about 1pm to 5pm. 
 
In the evening, we walked around a bit before heading to a restaurant recommended in the Frommer's guide book: Boudaraki.  It's located on the south side of the port area, just over a small bridge on the left hand side.  There were only 4 other couples dining there.  We sat outside.  Our meal was very good and was one of the best on our trip.  Tony had lamb cooked in a ceramic pot while I had chicken in a cream, garlic, bacon and mushroom sauce.  It was rich, but very good and not seen on other menus.  Our meal was only $17.  We also had some local white wine.  No appetizers this evening and we were glad.  The meal was filling.  We did have dessert, complimentary from the owner: a delicious baklava-type dessert.  A couple of cats walked in and just sat at our feet hoping to be fed.  One of the other couples took care of them.  A little while later, the cats started to fight.  Fur was flying everywhere.  The owner came out and sent them on their way.  We walked slowly back to our hotel through the tourist area where all the shops and other restaurants are located. 
 
11 May 2001: We got up around 8:30am.  After our showers and breakfast, we headed out to the grocery store to buy our lunch for the boat ride to Piraeus.  It was a 5 hour ride and after hearing about the expensive food on board, we wanted to have a picnic on board.  We bought a fresh loaf of sesame bread, Paros cheese, salami, a small can of marinated octopus, a small container of taramasolata, a can of dolmades, and a small bag of pistachio nuts.  Back in our room, we packed our bags.  We had saved two large empty water bottles and poured the white wine into them.  A lot remained, but we knew we couldn't drink it all.  Tony also had 2 bottles of Greek beer, but decided to leave it behind (only about .65 cents each).  The only hotel that had a refrigerator was the one on Santorini.
 
Around 11:15, we checked out and headed to the port.  Our bags were heavy, but manageable.  Our boat, the Express Poseidon, left at 12:20pm.  We left our luggage at the entrance of the boat, like many of the other travelers.  The first time we did this (from Santorini to Naxos), we felt a little uncomfortable.  But since we didn't have any valuables inside (except my film!), we decided it was okay to leave them where they were.  We went to one of the lounges and had our picnic.  People around us watched with envy while we ate our delicious meal with our wine.  After lunch, we found a place to sit outside and we read our books or just looked out to the sea.  We saw five military ships in the distance, but we couldn't tell from which country they were from.  It was a nice sunny day and a lot of young people were sunning themselves.  Although the boat ride was 5 hours long, it was a very nice and relaxing afternoon.
 
Arriving in Piraeus, the air was filled with pollution, but not too bad.  There was a constant haze in the air.  I think it would be worse in July and August in the hot summer heat.   The port was filled with other boats and ferries and in the distance I counted 23 barges.  We were the first off the boat as we had gone down early to get our luggage.  We headed to the metro station, which was difficult to find at first.  I had a map of Piraeus, but wasn't sure which dock we had landed.  After a few minutes, we figured out the directions.  Just follow the other tourists.  The metro tickets were 400DR.  We took the metro to the Monistiraki stop. At this square, it was very busy with traffic and people coming and going from the metro.  We also saw a sign for McDonald's.  How sad.  
 
From there, we headed north on Athina two blocks to our hotel Attalos.  We checked in our room, #511, which had a balcony with a view of the Acropolis.  The room was small, but nice.  The drapes and bedspread did not match, but looked new.  The bathroom was very tiny, but usable.  We went downstairs to ask Maria, the woman at the desk,  to have someone spray the room for mosquitos.  We saw two in the room.  If there's two, there's more.  Also, the A/C wasn't working.  She came up to our room about 5 minutes later with new batteries for the remote control and told us someone would come in and spray our room. 
 
After unpacking some of our clothes (by this time in our vacation I do not unpack everything), we headed to the Plaka.  The people!  It was much more crowded than we remember from our trip in 1993.  We walked around the area for a while, remembering some of the streets from before.  We went to a restaurant which served only mezes.  The waiter comes to the table with a large tray and about 12 different dishes.  We enjoyed tzatziki, eggplant, meatballs, octopus cooked with vegetables, stuffed vine leaves. Also included with our meal was bread, a large carafe of red wine, and a large bottle of water, which we didn't open but took back to our room.  We sat upstairs and as the evening went on, the placed filled up.  We sat next to an older couple from Holland.  After dinner, we walked back to our hotel and headed to the roof top garden bar.  We enjoyed a spectacular view of the Acropolis.  There were no buildings in the way.  It was great to sit outside and enjoy the view.  What a nice way to end the day.
 
12 May 2001: This day we spent visiting the central market, Acropolis, Agora, and Plaka.  We opted not to have breakfast in our hotel.  We headed to the central market, which was on the right a couple of blocks.  This place is not for those with weak stomachs.  All kinds of meats hang in the market: whole lamb, rabbit, beef, even pigs heads.  There is also a fishmarket with many varieties of fish and seafood.  The octopus looked wonderful.  Near the central market, we found a place serving gyros, which we had as our breakfast.  They were very good.  Almost as good as Lucky's.  Tony liked these better because in addition to the regular ingredients, these had some chopped green peppers. 
 
After our delicious breakfast, we headed to the Acropolis.  On the way there, we walked past Syntagma square, then saw the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown solder.  We headed up to the Acropolis from the north side/Plaka side.  There were a lot of people there.  I enjoyed seeing the Parthenon again.  Even though there is scaffolding, it's a spectacular sight.  I suppose it will be many years before the project is finished.  We visited the museum, which is included as part of the entry ticket.  After visiting the museum, we headed down to the Agora.  I remember back in 1993 we could walk around the area without any entry fee.  Now we had to pay to get in.  Inside the Agora's market building is a museum, also included in the price of the ticket.
 
For lunch, we headed to the Psiri area, which is west of our hotel.  There were several restaurants in the area filled with lots of locals.  We didn't see many tourists in this area.  The food looked good at one place (Zeidwron) so we stopped in for lunch.  Tony had a delicious meal of sausage and peppers cooked in a tomato based sauce.  I had a pork dish with vegetable and cheese baked in parchment paper.  We didn't have any appetizers at this meal.
 
We were tired from all the walking and hiking around the Acropolis, so we headed back to the room to rest.  Well, Tony did.  I headed out to do some shopping.  I was gone only an hour as I ran out of money.  There were some stores with lovely ceramics.  Back in the room, I wrote in my journal.  The day was very overcast.  I suppose my photos won't come out well. 
 
For dinner, we dined in the Plaka at O Platano.  We sat outside with many other people.  We ordered too much.  We had spinach pies (ordered 2 thinking they would be for one person), eggplant salad, and two lamb dishes: one with eggplant and the other with peas.  Everything was delicious.  We had a bottle of Santorini Boutari white wine, which was very good.  Our meal was about $30.  We headed back to our hotel after walking around the Plaka and seeing all the tourists there.  We went to the rooftop garden and ordered ouzo's.  They were expensive. 
 
13 May 2001: Mother's Day and our last full day in Greece.  Another overcast and cold day.  These last two days in Athens were the only days that I wore pants during the day.  All the other days were warm and sunny enough for shorts.  We headed to the Plaka's flea market, which was just a few blocks south of our hotel.  It was amazing to see all the junk for sale.  There were many shops selling all kinds of things: antiques, military clothing, jewelry, souvenirs, etc.  The flea market was hugh.  There were so many piles of things.  In one area of the Plaka, there was a booth set up and people were passing out flowers.  It was for Mothers Day.  The flowers were in a small container to keep fresh for the day. I was given one, but later placed it on a bench as I couldn't carry it all day long. 
 
We did a lot of walking this day.  We headed to the National Archeological museum.  Along the way we picked up some food to munch on.  We visited the museum for a couple of hours.  One exhibit we wanted to see was closed.  It was on Cycladic art, including artifacts from Ancient Akrotiri in Santorini.  After this museum, we walked to the War museum.  It was raining lightly all morning.  We got to the museum in time to see most of the exhibits before it closed at 2pm.  There was no charge for the museum, which was nice.  Outside the building were a few war airplanes on display.  The museum had artifacts from the wars that Greece was involved with.  Swords, guns, uniforms, paintings, photographs. 
 
Next, we walked back to the Plaka, via the Olympic stadium.  We sat in the stands for a while giving our feet a break.  Back in the Plaka we had donar kebabs for lunch, which were very good.  We were very tired after all that walking.  We must have walked a few miles.  We were nonstop from 10am to 3pm.  Back in our room we took a nap for a couple of hours.  It was nice to relax for a while. 
 
In the evening we dined at Byzantino in the Plaka.  We had a few mezes for our meal.  We had a late lunch so we were not very hungry.  We took our time eating and enjoying the evening.  We walked around the Plaka and I bought some pistachio ice cream.  It was very good!  We were in bed by about 11pm.  This was our last evening in Greece
 
14 May 2001: Time to go home.  We got up at 8am.  Our taxi would be waiting for us at 9am.  We didn't have a lot to pack since we didn't completely unpack our bags when we arrived at Attalos.  Checkout was fast and the taxi drive was waiting for us.  It took about 50 minutes to get to the new airport and cost us 6.000DR/$15.65.  The traffic was very heavy in town. After we got out of the area, it was a quick ride to the airport.  Our flight was at 12:20pm, so we had time to find the VAT refund office, have some breakfast, and head to our gate.  As usual, we had a difficult time finding the VAT refund office.  I swear these foreign countries don't want anyone to get their refund back, so they hide these offices.  We asked several people in uniform, who only said, "go ask...."  We finally found it.  It's on the right side, just on the other side of the Passport Control booths.  There is a small sign that reads, "Customs Control," not "VAT Refund Office."  I would never had thought that it was the refund office.  I have a map of the airport if anyone wishes to see it.  I have even marked the place for the refund office as well as the post office on the first level.  That's the other problem: after getting the refund certificate stamped, there's no mail box.  I had to give up my passport at the control booth tp go down stairs to the post office to drop off the envelope.  I could have waited until I got home, but I wanted it mailed from Athens.  It was really irritating!
 
We had breakfast at (ugh!)...McDonalds, although they did not serve the typical McDonald's food.  I had a spinach pie and Tony had a sandwich.  After, he went to the duty free store to spend the rest of our Greek money.  He purchased a bottle of Metaxa.  I would have preferred Ouzo!
 
Our flight left on time but getting on board took a while.  The security was very good at the airport, so I didn't mind the long wait.  I'd rather have them check everyone out carefully than not at all.  We had the exit seats (front door), but were asked to move so that the flight attendants could use the area for their carts.  I didn't care to move, but we did.  The flight was half empty.  The lunch was very good, especially the salads: smoked salmon and eggplant salad.  The flight was fine, but we hated Olympic Airlines.  They didn't show any movies at all!  There were four shows that they kept repeating throughout the flight.  Many people were angry.  The other problem as I mentioned before, was that after everyone was served their meal, the flight attendants disappeared.  What an airline. 
 
It was a very long day getting home.  Our flight home was 9.5 hours long!  We had moved back to our exit seats prior to landing, so we were the first off after the first class passengers.  We landed at JFK around 3pm.  We grabbed a taxi, who whisked us to LGA in the afternoon rush hour traffic.  We missed catching the 4pm flight to Reagan National, so we had to wait for the 5pm flight.  The flight line was backed up with a dozen planes in front of us were waiting to take off.  Our flight finally took off around 5:40pm.  The flight was short and after landing and getting to our car via shuttle bus, we drove to Dawn's house to pick up Lucy.  We stayed for dinner, and then headed home.   We got home around 10pm.  Yes, it was a very long day!  It was good to be home in our own bed. 
 
Greece is a wonderful place to visit!  The islands were lovely as well as the beaches with its clear blue water.  We'd certainly return again.  It was a very relaxing trip.  Visiting the island wasn't like visiting a large city such at Paris or Rome where there are many, many things to see and do.  The islands are perfect for those that want to enjoy the beaches, restaurants andto just have a relaxing vacation.  We found that our stay of 2.5 days on each island was perfect for us.  Any longer, we would have been bored, especially since we're not the type to hang out on a beach all day long. 
 
We certainly enjoyed the food and never got tired of eating Greek food, although someimte we felt all we did was eat.  The local wines were good and inexpensive.  Lunch of gyros were inexpensive and delicious - Go to Lucky's in Fira!!!  We could have spent less on our meals by skipping the wine and beer, but even with the drinks, the meals were very reasonable.
 
I think Fira was one of my favorite places.  I just loved sitting on our terrace enjoying the views of the caldera.  Both ports of Naxos and Paros were very nice.  I liked the small streets of Naxos and the beaches of Paros.  My next trip?  Italy in November with Dawn!  Time to start planning!
 
WEB SITES USED:
http://www.gtp.gr/  Greek Travel Pages (search boat schedules)
http://www.dilos.com/  Travel page on Greece.  Good site for hotels.
http://www.greektravel.com/  Matt Barrett's guide to Greece
http://www.attalos.gr/  Hotel Attalos in Athens
http://www.enigmahotel.com/index.html Enigma Apartments in Fira, Santorini
http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/paros/paroikia/asterias/home.htm  Hotel Asterias, Paros
http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/naxos/chora/apollon/home.htm  Hotel Apollon in Naxos
http://www.naxosnet.com  Naxos Island
 

Italy November 2001 Journal

 
ITALY NOVEMBER 2001
 
I traveled to Italy this November with my cousin Reenie Clancy from Andover, MA.  My friend Dawn and I were supposed to travel together; however, after the events of September 11, 2001, she decided not to travel at this time.  I was fortunate to have Reenie go with me.  She had never been to Europe before, so she had to expedite in getting her passport.  I had asked her to go with me only 3 weeks prior to traveling.  In those 3 weeks, she was able to get her passport, a debit card, some lira, and everything else she needed to take with her for this trip.
 
1 November 2001:  We met at Dulles International for our international direct flight to Milan.  The flight was over booked as United Airlines decided to consolidate two flights into one.  Reenie got her seat assignment when she arrived in Boston, but I was placed on a stand-by list, which angered me.  I bought my tickets at least 5 months in advance!  However, it worked out and I got on board.  Reenie was able to move to a seat next to me, across the isle after we got four people to play musical chairs.  The flight was smooth and the food was good. 
 
2 November 2001: We arrived around 7:40am at the Milan Malpensa airport and were out of the airport in no time.  We bought our tickets (8.000L each) for the 8:20am bus to the Milan train station, between exit doors number 5 and 6.  There is a sign, "Airport 2000."  The ride to the train station took about 50 minutes.  I was hoping for a 10:05 am train to Venice, but the next one was at 11:05am, which actually left at 11:20am.  We picked up some panini for lunch and ate them on the train.  We made the mistake of sitting in a 1st class car and were asked to move to 2nd class.  I had been more concerned about getting a non-smoking car than looking for "2nd Class."  The train was packed and we had to sit on our suite cases for almost 3 hours in the train "hallway."
 
We were tired, but excited to be in Italy.  We arrived in Venice about 2:15pm.  Venice is my favorite city and was anxious to visit it again.  We bought our vaporetto tickets, got some lira out of the ATM machine, took a couple of photographs, and hopped onto vaporetto #1 to Ca d'Oro stop.  It was a 5 minute walk to our hotel, Locanda Leon Bianco.  At first, I couldn't find the hotel as it was down a tiny, narrow street and thought we made a wrong turn.   The entrance to the hotel is not attractive at all.  We were greeted by Andrea, our young host just as we got to the door, up 42 steps!  Our room, #5, faced a side canal.  It was pretty noisy at night and really had no view.  I would have loved a room facing the grand canal, but the place was completely booked as it was a holiday weekend.
 
The day was beautiful with clear skies and temps in the high 50s.  It felt warmer when we were in the sun.  We unpacked our bags, freshened up after a long trip to Venice, then headed to the Rialto bridge.  There were many people out shopping and taking photos of the canal views.  We walked around a bit, then found a place for coffee and a glass of wine for me.  For dinner, we went to nearby Trattoria Tre Spiedi.  I had a small meal of a salad and fried (delicious!) calamari, while Reenie enjoyed a pasta dish with prosciutto in a cream sauce.  We had arrived just in time as the place filled very quickly with locals.  After dinner, we walked a bit and picked up a pastry (for Reenie) and tiramisu gelato for me.  Yummy!  Went to bed around 9:30pm after a nice hot shower. 
 
3 November 2001: What a great day!  I woke up at 7am with the nearby church bells ringing.  Another beautiful day with temps in the low 60s; not a cloud in the sky.  We walked all around Venice, exploring the many streets and canals.  We visited the Rialto market and enjoyed looking at all the wonderful fresh fruits, vegetables, and seafood.  Along the way, Reenie picked up the most devine olive bread (the bread shop is past the market, heading away from the Rialto bridge, on the left).   We got lost, found neat streets, and took many photographs.  We visited the Basilica with the crowds.  Reenie was amazed at all the sights we saw.  She especially admired the marble floors.  We stopped at the ticket office at the DogesPalace and purchased tickets for the next day for the "Secret Tour."   Then we headed to the top of the Campinile tower for some wonderful views of Venice
 
We did some window shopping for gold.  I wanted to purchase a pendant of the Winged Lion of Venice.  Reenie loved the one I picked, so she bought one too.  For lunch, I was interested in having pizza and read in one of my books that the best pizza was at Pizzeria Al Vecio Canton in Castello, not too far from the Piazza San Marco.  It took a while to find it as there were many tiny streets.  The restaurant was very nice.  We had delicious pizza with fresh buffalo mozzarella.  Mine included sausage, while Reenie had hers with porcini mushrooms. 
 
After lunch, we wandered around and window shoppped along the way.  We walked to the "tail" of Venice and found a residental area.  This was near the Arsenal, which used to be the ship building area, but is now used by the military.  Some of the canals were filled with boats and would have been great for picture taking, but the sun was setting at that time.  It got dark around 6pm.  We found a place on Fondamenta Sant' Anna (which is where Via Giuseppe Garibaldi starts from the grand canal) that sells local wine by the jug.  Residents were coming in with their empty bottles and jugs and having them filled with wine.  There were a dozen different wines to choose from.  I had to have my own!  So, down the street in a little grocery store, I bought a large bottle of water for about .41 cents, drank a bunch of it (we were thirsty anyway), watered some flowers at the nearby Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi park, and went the store to have my bottle filled.  I bought a Merlot and paid 4.800L for 1.5 liters of wine!  That's about $2.35!!!  Amazing. 
 
We walked all the way back to our room and were pretty tired.  While freshening up for dinner we had some of the wine.  It was pretty good.  We took the Vaporetto to the Accademia stop and had dinner at Taverna San Trovaso, a restaurant that Tony and I found back in 1998. We had a delicious meal of various seafood.  The wine, ½ liter, was only 7.000L.  The place was filled with mostly locals and a few tourists.  We walked home to walk off our dinner. 
 
4 November 2001, Sunday: Again, we had another beautiful, blue sky day.  I didn't sleep well at all.  There were a few mosquitos in the room and the boats kept going by our window all night long.  We were up and out of the room by 8:30am to give ourselves a full day of sightseeing and wandering around Venice.  We had coffee and tea along the way at a bar and then headed to the Doges palace for our 10:00am secret tour (24.000L each).  It lasted over an hour and was very interesting.  We got to visit several rooms, which those on the regular tours, don't visit.  This was on the 3rd floor where we also visited some of the prision cells, including the one where Giaccamo Casanova was imprisioned.  The tour guide spoke English very well and was intertaining in telling the story of Casanova.  In the attic area, there was a small area of artifacts to view: swords, helmets, other weapons, etc.  There were about 25 in the tour group.  We were glad we took this tour and highly recommend it.  Thanks Dan for telling me about it!
 
Next we headed to Burano.  We walked to the Fondamenta Nuove to catch the Vaporetto to Burano, which took 40 minutes to get there.  Burano is absolutely lovely!  It's so colorful with many, many different colored buildings.  I hope my photographs come out well.  Apparently home owners who want to repaint their home must paint it in the same color.  There were many shops selling lovely lace products such as table linens, pillow covers, etc.  In one shop, a woman was in the middle of making a lace product by hand.  She had just started on it, so I couldn't tell what she was making.  For lunch, we found a small store and bought fontana cheese and hard salami and ate it on the Vaporetto going back to Venice
 
Back in our room, we had some wine and relaxed a little. Then we headed out for more shopping as Reenie needed a necklace for her new pendant.  She found a beautiful one, that I even asked the sales woman if she had a second one for me.  I just loved the style of it.  This was a nice heavy gold chain, which was much more appropriate for the pendant we bought rather than the thin necklace I was wearing. Now I needed to find one for my pendant, which I did, but in a different pattern. 
 
So looking like twins wearing our new gold, we headed again to the Accademia vaporetto stop to have dinner at Ai Cugnai with Julie, a fellow fodorite, and her friend Betsy.  We had some time to spare, so we walked to S. Maria d. Salute.  Our feet were sore and we were ready to take a break, so since we still had time, we had drinks at a bar next to the Accademia bridge and my old "home," Hotel Galleria.  We had a great time with Julie and Betsy.  Both were staying at hotels on the Dorsoduro side of Venice.  Our waitress, Eda, one of three sisters working at the restaurant, was very entertaining.  Every time she brought out a dish for the other guests, she would stop by and tell us what it was, explaining it was "delicious" or "you must try this."  Reenie and I had a delicious seafood risotto, then I had fried calamari, while Reenie had a veal dish.  Both Julie and Betsy had a fish dish and I think salads.  We also had white wine, which Julie paid.  Thanks again!  Julie and Betsy really enjoyed their meal of some sort of fish (as we did) as well as the restaurant.  This was a restaurant that Tony and I found back in 1998 and now is in several guidebooks.  We took the Vaporetto home instead of walking.  It had been a long day and were ready to crawl into bed.
 
5 November 2001: I have to say: Another beautiful day.  What good luck we have had so far.  We headed to the Rialto market area to pick up that wonderful olive bread for breakfast along with some cheese.  What a way to start the day!  We headed back to our part of town and toured the Ca d' Oro museum.  It was filled with many paintings along with some sculptures.  It was nice, but we expected to tour the place as it was originally built. 
 
We walked to the train station via the Ghetto to buy our train tickets for Verona.  After wandering around the Ghetto, I stopped in a store near the train station and bought a beautiful glass winged lion for my fire mantel.  I had been pricing them for the last couple of days and this was the best priced one along with being the nicest.  Plus it was signed and "stamped" that it was made in Murano.  The salesman tripple wrapped it in bubble wrap, which I added another layer when I got to the hotel room.  I love it!
 
After buying our trian tickets, we took the Vaporetto to the Rialto stop, and picked up lunch at Bartolomeo's a great restaurant/cafeteria.  We did a take out of eggplant parmesan, a meat/gren noodle lasagna, and a mixed seafood salad, which we ate in our hotel room with a glass of wine.  All was delicious and only about $12.    After lunch and a short rest, we took the vaporetto to the Accademia stop and walked around the Dorsoduro area.  I wanted to see the floating market, but most of it was closed down by the time we got there.  Along the way, we saw a young man in a gondola singing (in a tux) while he was being filmed.  Maybe for Italian MTV? 
 
We headed back to Piazza San Marco so Reenie could buy a glass bowl, but we couldn't remember where the store was locaoted.  She ended up buying a pair of black leather gloves for $57, which was more practical than a glass bowl.  They were very nice and lined with cashmere.  We stopped for drinks around 5:30pm at a bar and sat outside in the cool air watching all the tourists walk by.  There we many Japanese tourists in groups.  Back at the hotel, we asked the hotel owner if he would recommend a good trattoria for us.  He recommended Osteria da Alberto, which was near our hotel.  This was a great choice!  We both enjoyed their delicious risotto with shrimp and rock salad and their steak (cooked rare) with gorgonzola cheese sauce.   On the way home, we stopped at the internet cafe next to the hotel so I could email Tony and some friends.  It cost me 5.000L for 15 minutes.  I had about 4 minutes left, so I could use it the next day.  Time for bed.  Tomorrow: Verona!
 
6 November 2001: We woke up at 6:10am to catch the 7:45am train to Verona.  The next train to head to Verona was at 10:00am, which was too late to take for a full day's visit to Verona.  It was an overcast day, but we hoped that it would clear up.  That didn't happen.  Our train left 45 minutes late because of mechanical problems.  We met a young couple on the train from California, Tony and Rosa, who were also on their Verona before heading to Florence.  They had no clue as what to see in Verona, so I gave them my extra notes/map of Verona.  They were very appreciative. 
 
The bus from the train station took us to the Piazza Bra, which was next to the Amphitheater, called the Arena. We climbed to the top for some city views.  Some of the steps were quite high and we had to be careful because everything was wet (all marble).  Operas are performed every year here along with plays, ballet and festivals. I bet the acoustics are great! Verona is a lovely town and would have been even more beautiful if the sun were out! 
 
We headed along the pedestrian street to Piazza de Erbe where the market is located.  Unfortunately not many food stalls were open.  Many touristy stalls were filled with lots of junk.  We were a little disappointed as we expected to see similar sights as the market at the Rialto.  We climbed the nearby tower, Torre Lamberti, for some great views of the city, but the weather was lousy for picture taking.  As a tip, take the elevator, then the stairs to the very top.  We did all of the steps and were tired.  We also visited Juliet's home.  There is a statue of her in the courtyard.  All of the men who stopped by rubbed Juliet's breast for good luck in love.  The walls were filled with graffiti, which we took a picture of as it was quite colorful.  There were lots of messages about love! 
 
For lunch, we dined at Osteria al Duca, in (supposedly) Romeo's house.  We had a very good lunch.  We dined upstairs, which was quite comfortable and cozy.  In the afternoon, we walked to the Roman theatre, which was spectacular!  Along the way, we stopped to take photos of the old bridge.  The entrance ticket included a museum filled with wonderful artifacts.  I think this was Reenie's favorite sight and told her she needs to visit Rome!  After this, we headed to a nearby bus stop to get back to the train station for our 5:08pm train.  We had to transfer to a second bus and got to the train station around 4:20pm.  I noticed there was a train at 4:34pm, so we took that one.  Our tickets were not marked for a specific time, so we had no problems taking the earlier one.  We were tired as it was a long day.  We headed back to our hotel and again asked for a restaurant recommendation.  Andrea suggested Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso, which was on Strada Nuovo near our hotel.  He called and made reservations for us.  We had a very good meal at reasonable prices.  There was a large group from England that were very noisy.  Once they left, it was quite nice and peaceful.  They did enjoy their evening.  I had fried calamari as it was our last night in Venice and figured the best fresh seafood would be in Venice.  It was delicious and fresh!  Reenie had a delicious pasta with porcini mushrooms and scallops.  We also shared a tiramisu for dessert.    
 
After dinner, Reenie went to the room, while I got onto the computer to email home.  I also took a quick walk to the Rialto bridge hoping to buy a key chain for Reenie that she saw, the most of the stores were closed by then.  Back at the room, we packed, then went to bed.
 
7 November 2001: We got up early (another cloudy day) and headed to the vaporetto to get to the Piazzale Roma, where we picked up our rental car.  I rented a Fiat Punto, their economy car.  Tiny, but perfect for the 2 of us.  We left Venice at 9:45am and got to Assisi at 2:30pm.  We stopped a couple of times along the way.  Missed one road at the beginning, my first experience with Italian road signs.  Italy has terrible road signs as we discovered along the way.  The toll to Assisi was 32.500L.  We drove through some mountains, saw many towns along the way.  Perugia is hugh!  Asissi was a great sight as we neared the town.  We drove into Assisi and I found Hotel Sole easily on one of the main streets, near the main piazza.  We checked in and dropped off our bags in the room, then parked the car at a nearby free parking lot.  It was about an 8 minute walk back to the hotel.  No problems with parking at night when returning from our day trips. I imagine it would be difficult to find a parking space at that free lot during the high tourist season.  Our room, #62, was in the annex, which was across the street from the main building.  Our room, which was nice, had great views of the valley below and roof tops of the buildings in front of us.  We unpacked a few things, then headed out for the rest of the afternoon.  Assisi is a beautiful town with many small streets and stairs to climb.  We walked all around and ended up at St. Francis Basilica.  It was amazing to see it, especially after seeing it in the news back in 1997 with the earthquake.  The only signs of an earthquake were the 2 sections of the ceiling which lacked any frescos.  Even the marble floor looked great. 
 
For dinner, we went to a restaurant recommended by a young man at a bar where we had coffee and tea earlier in the day.  We dined at La Pallotta, which was off the main piazza.  The place was very nice.  We ran into a couple that we meet earlier in the day.  They were with a tour group, but with just one couple for dinner.  I had told them about this place as they were looking for a place for dinner.  They said they enjoyed their meal.  We walked a bit, then headed back to our room.
 
8 November 2001: This day we took a walk up to the fortress.  It was an overcast day and very windy.  We did have great views of the area, but there was lots of fog in the valley.  We headed back to St. Francis to see it in the day light with all its beautiful stained glass windows.  There were many tourists there, including many nuns. 
 
We drove to Deruta via Betona.  It was a great drive as we saw several town along the way.  We shopped in Deruta for ceramics and bought a few things.  Some ceramics were extremely expensive and quite beautiful.  Some day I'll splurge and buy a very large platter/plate to hang on the wall.  We had a nice lunch at Ristorante Fontanina. 
 
We drove back to Assisi in the late afternoon.  Prior to parking the car, we drove to find a restaurant that Reenie's friend recommended, called La Stalla.  It was outside the town, only a mile or so away.  I ran in to make reservations, but was told we didn't have to since it was just the two of us.  Back in Assisi, we wanted to go to a shop we had seen the previous day.  This particular store had lovely small ceramic magnets that we wanted to buy but didn't when we first saw them thinking we should shop around. No luck as the shop was closed for the evening.  We didn't seem the any place else, so we decided to go to the store the next evening.  Restaurant La Stalla was a neat place.  It has a large fireplace where the cook grilled all the meat dishes: lamb, boar, wild game such as pigeon, etc.  Our meal was very good (I had the grilled lamb and Reenie had quail or something similar to that).  We were the only tourists there. 
 
9 November 2001: We got up early to drive to Orvieto for the day.  It poured while we drove, but stopped by the time we got there.  Along the way we saw Todi in the distance as well as another lovely town we wanted to see after visiting Orvieto.  We drove to the top of Orvieto and found a parking lot with 1 last space next to the Duomo.    What luck!  I paid 5.400L for 5 hours of parking.  We saw several sights with a combined ticket, including the Duomo, the tower with great views (got to the top just in time for the bells to ring!), the main museum, and the underground caves, which was very interesting.  The caves were originally made by the Etruscans, then used by those from medieval times, who made the caves larger to store their wine and olive oil.  They also had caves for piegons to sell and consume.  During WWII, hospital patients were moved to a new cave built during the war. 
 
For lunch, we dined at Ristorante dell' Ancora which had good food, but lousy, rude service. The young guide at the caves had recommended a restaurant, but when we got there it was filled, so we searched for another place.  It is supposed to be a great restaurant with authentic Umbrian cuisine.  It specializes in pigeon and I believe the name of the restaurant is Pigeon.   
 
We drove home and wanted to stop along the way to the little town near Todi, but I got confused with the road signs and ended up on A1 instead.  We "crossed" over the countryside and got back to Assisi via many small windy roads.  At one point at an intersection, we saw two signs to Perugia, one pointing to the left and the other to the right!  A car stopped, guessing we were trying to figure out which direction to go.  He had me follow them and about 1/4 mile later, pointed to a turn in the road to Perugia.  Nice guys!  We later saw a sign for Assisi (oh good, we're still on the right track) then no sign.  We ended up in Perugia on the south side and had to turn around to head to Assisi
 
Back in Assisi, we again went to the shop that sold the lovely ceramic magnets, but again, they were closed!  They must close early.  We were so disappointed.  So, any fodorites out there that plan to be in Assisi, please let me know!  I'll send you money if you'll get some for me.
 
We had coffee and wine at a cafe in the main piazza, then dinner at La Fortezza.  This was the best meal so far in our trip and the service was excellent.  The hotel/restaurant is set within some Roman walls. 
 
10 November 2001: We woke up early, 6:30am, to high winds and a very cold day. We had packed the night before so we could leave early to get to Siena at a decent hour for touring the town.  I had Reenie wait in the room while I went out all bundled up to get the car.  As I walked out the building and closed the large wood door, I realized I would need the key to get back in!  Oh well, I'd figure it out when I came back with the car.  I had to ring the hotel manager and have her open the door for me.  She came out in her robe and was upset at me.  I explained with the little Italian I know that I left the key with my cousin. 
 
In any case, we were on our way to Siena after filling the car with gas.  We drove in the rain for a while, then it let up.  We got to Siena about 1-3/4 hours later.  I found our hotel easily as it was located just outside Porta Romana.  Piccolo Hotel Oliveta was a very nice hotel.  Our room, #G, was very nice and large.  Our window looked out to the valley to the left and reception building to the right. 
 
After checking in, we had breakfast there; then headed out to see SienaSiena is another beautiful town.  It was a miserable, cold day.  It rained the whole time we walked around (about 3.5 hours).  We didn't bother going to the top of the tower at the campo.  We did walk to the fortress, where Reenie bought a bottle of olive oil.  We were able to sample 5 or 6 varieties of olive oil, all delicious.  I couldn't stand the cold weather anymore.  My feet were damp and my hands were numb, so we headed back to the room.  We were disappointed that the afternoon was wasted.  It was too cold to even sit out at a cafe.
 
While in our room writing in our journals or writing postcards, Oliver called.  Miriam and Oliver drove from Frankfurt to visit us in Siena.  They were in town at their hotel on the north side of Siena.  We had dinner plans with them  along with 4 other fellow fodorites at restaurant Cane e Gato.  Miriam and Oliver came by our hotel around 6pm via taxi and we had some wine before walking to the restaurant.  It rained lightly as we walked the 10 minutes to get to the restaurant.
 
Cane e Gato was FABULOUS!!!  Everyone else was there when we arrived at 7:45pm: Judi and Paul, and Christine and Paul.  The place is small (seats maybe 25 people), yet comfortable and lovely.  Nice decor with paintings on the wall, glass tables, candles and leather placemats, which were for two people sitting across each other.  This family run restaurant was our best meal of our trip and most enjoyable evening.  Mama cooked dinner while papa and daughter, quite lovely, served our dinner.  Both had smiles on their faces all evening long.  One could tell they enjoyed what they did.  Our dinner event lasted 4 hours and no, it didn't seem long and drawn out at all.  We enjoyed our great talks and fabulous food.  Do go there if you have the chance!  We walked back to our hotel with Judi and Paul.  Miriam and Oliver took a taxi home.  It was a late evening for us, but a great evening!
 
11 November 2001: Another overcast and rainy day. Another disappointment.  This day we drove to to San Gimignano, stopping along the way at Monteriggioni, a lovely little walled in town.  It's very small and one could see the whole town in 10 minutes.  San Gimignano was a neat town to see with its 14 remaining (out of 70?) towers.  We saw it in the distance before getting there.  I'm sure it's very impressive in the sunlight.  We walked around town, but didn't do any museums.  We wanted to be outdoors to see the town.  We walked everywhere.  We stopped at a meat shop and sampled wild boar (our lunch) in various forms and flavors: salami, proscuitto, etc.  I bought some of it for Tony.  We also stopped for some delicious gelato.
 
We drove to three towns: Castellena, Radda, and Gaiole.  But with all the rain, we just drove by them.  We definitely want to return to Tuscany so we can visit these towns properly.  We stopped at an old castle, Melete, where they had tours, but the next tour was only in Italian.  Back at our hotel, we freshened up for dinner (Alexandra had made reservations for us), and chatted with Antonio while having wine and cheese. 
 
For dinner we dined at Fori Porta, just down the street from our hotel and opposite direction of Porta Romana.  Judi and Paul had dined there two nights before and said it was very good. Yes, the food was good, but we had poor service from the male waiter/host.  He ignored us, we had to wait a while for things, and it took over 30 minutes to get our bill after asking 3 times!  We couldn't figure out why he was rude to us.  Reenie sensed it from the beginning when he opened the door and I walked in and he let the door go before Reenie could enter.  I should have said something to him at the end of the evening, but he probably wouldn't have cared.  Although the food was very good, I won't return here.
 
As we walked out the restaurant, Miriam and Oliver showed up in their taxi. We walked to our hotel and had some wine and chatted with them and Antonio until about midnight.  It was great that Miriam and Oliver drove all the way from Frankfurt to see us.  Thanks again Miriam and Oliver!  You are special friends to me!!!
 
12 November 2001: I decided to sleep in a little since it was raining.  After breakfast, the sun came out, so we took a quick walk to the center of town to take some photos.  We checked out of our hotel around 11:30am and headed to Milan.  On the way we drove by Certaldo.  We wanted to visit it, but didn't want to leave our car with our luggage in it.  We did stop along the road to take a photo of a town nearby when the sun was out.  As we drove north to Milan, it got cloudy again and rained off and on.  We got to Hotel Cervo, which was near the Malpensa airport, just after dark.  Miriam had called me at the hotel just after we checked in after hearing about the American Airline crash in NY.  She was concerned about our flight not knowing if the crash would affect flights from Europe or if it was from a terrorist act.  I had her call Tony, who called me to say the crash was because of mechanical problems.  I felt better knowing it wasn't a terrorist act, but still upset by the crash.  I was saddened for New York as this could have happened anywhere and it happened in New York
 
We had dinner at the hotel's restaurant.  The food wasn't anything to write home to, but the house wine was fine.  There were just a few other people in the restaurant that evening.  We took a walk after dinner and headed towards the airport.  Planes were coming and going while the little town we were in, Casa Nuovo, was sound asleep.  Back in our rooms, we watched the news on CNN, then went to bed.   
 
13 November 2001: We got up at 7:00am, showered, had breakfast, then checkout of our hotel.  The drive to the airport, terminal 1, took only minutes.  The car rental return was located at the underground parking (take the left lane out of four lanes when entering the airport property).  After a quick return of the car, we headed to the terminal.  We were one of the first to check in, which was easy.  Lots of guards at the airport and lots of questions about our luggage, packing, when did we buy it, etc.  We waited 2.5 hours for our flight as we were told to check in 3 hours ahead of time.  The time went quickly as I wrote in my journal and people-watched.  Reenie bought some balsamic vinegar at the duty free shop.  The flight wasn't full, so everyone boarded quickly and we took off on time.  The flight was good, but we had  some turbulence.  The views of the Alps were beautiful.  Lots of snow on the peaks.  The food on board wasn't that great compared to the food on the way over to Italy.  We watched a movie, napped a little, wrote a little.  We got to Dulles about 45 minutes early.  Reenie and I parted at Dulles, where she went off to catch her flight to Boston.  I got my suitcase and went through customs without a blink of an eye and waited outside for my ride home.  Tony and Lucy showed up at curbside 5 minutes after I walked out the terminal. 
 
It's good to be home, but always sad to end a wonderful vacation. This trip was great!  Reenie was a great travel partner and she enjoyed every minute as I did despite the rainy weather we encountered in Umbria and Tuscany.  She (me too) is ready to return to Tuscany to hunt for Tartufo (truffles) and visit the many wonderful towns of Tuscany.  So, it looks like I have given my travel bug to yet another person.
 
Monica

With Alexandra, Reenie, and Antonio